2.0  TFSi - The Best Mods & Tuning Upgrades

"Tuning the 2.0 TFSi engine - EA113 (& Early EA888)"

Due to concerns about emissions and tighter controls the 2.0 TFSi engine (EA113) was born and contains a number of major revisions to enhance engine efficiency.

The 1.8T engine was retired and replaced with a more powerful turbo charged 2.0 TSi unit. (VW generally used Turbo Stratified Injection and Audi used Turbo Fuel Stratified Injection TFSi, which are essentially the same thing.

The most notable revision is the introduction of direct injection allowing very fine control over fuelling and as well as the extra economy on offer the engine provides a lot of extra performance.

Because the fuel is injected directly into the cylinder it has the effect of cooling the intake charge, reducing the risk of detonation and allowing much higher cylinder pressures to be used. Plus the fuel delivery can be very precisely controlled and trimmed to suit engine load.

Direct injection has been a major enhancement to diesel engines and it is nice to see this innovation finding its way into petrol engines.

2.0 TFSi Engine Range/Specs

Variants of the 2.0 TFSi find their way across the entire Audi range and this is certainly the petrol engine of choice.

Power levels ranged from 197bhp to 265bhp depending on the model with the S3 and TT getting the top power versions.

A few engines had minor internal revisions and slightly altered compression ratios, the 220bhp BUL engine (from the Limited Edition Quattro) is a good example and these respond better to custom tunes or remaps than standard engines.

A later EA888 version came out with additional port injection and pretty much eradicated the carbon build up issues reported on the previous EA113 version.

Tuning and Modifying

As the 2.0 TFSi were revised quite heavily we have separated out the tuning guides for them from this article to provide more detail than this original article, so for more info please see...

For serious power gains on the TFSi you are looking at an uprated fuel pump (the S3 fuel systems are a good upgrade option on tuned 2.0 TFSi engines to deliver the fuel), sports cat and manifold, cat back exhaust system, high flow air intake and a remap.

The weak spots which we will highlight below can be easily remedied and avoided if watched.

We do recommend the addition of an uprated non atmospheric diverter valve for mild tuning and standard cars because the original units were not that reliable and tend to fail or stick as they wear.

With just a tune/remap on a stock engine you can raise the power from the baseline 200bhp or 220bhp to around 240bhp and although an uprated diverter valve is recommended it is not an essential. Making the tune/remap a very cost effective way to add more power.

Adding the other performance parts you should be able to hit the 280bhp mark and if you uprate the turbo to a KO4 unit you should reach around the 350bhp mark fairly easily. A bigger Garret turbo unit would be required if you want to achieve power figures around the 300-600bhp mark.

The 2.0 TFSi is a very powerful and efficient engine with a couple of potential weak spots to keep an eye on.

Cambelt changes should happen at least every 5 years and we would recommend annual oil changes, the recommended long life service is very convenient but you want to keep the car in top condition bear in mind that oil does degrade and pick up contaminants.

To keep your engine in perfect condition you must use the correct grade of oil and stick to a premium brand of fully synthetic.

If your garage recommend a semi synthetic or worse still something that isn't 5w30 or VW503 00, VW503 01 or VW504 00 specific you don't really want to let them near your car. (Recent specs from VW exceed these early standards but ensure it is the correct grade.)

The 2.0 TFSi engines provide excellent efficiency turning every drop of fuel in power which is good for economy but there are 2 well documented problems to look out for.

Regard these items as service items to check carefully, rather than a manufacturing defect. As long as you check them you should have no trouble at all.

Setting the N75 correctly should be high on your priority list.

The N75 is managed by the ECU and serves as a bleed valve. It controls how quickly and how long the turbo spools up and how much boost it gives off.

If your N75 isn't working right, you'll usually see less boost, or power surges or lumpy power. It could even go into "limp home" mode.

Check the N75 valve itself. Some problems are caused by a leak in the vacuum lines, not the valve itself.

What is this N75 and what does it do?

You want the turbo to keep spinning, but if you let off the gas, the boost will build up. If the turbo shuts down, you'll have to wait for it to start up again. In most cars, the wastegate helps the turbo keep spinning and making power. Isn't that clever?

The N75 uses wasted boost to keep the turbo spinning when there isn't a lot of pressure on it, so it can keep the engine running. All of that lovely pressurized, fast-moving air will be lost if you put an atmospheric dump valve in your car.

This is why you don't want to put an atmospheric dump valve in your 2.0TFSi

In between the wastegate and the turbo's high pressure outlet, it has two outputs and only one boost input, but it has a lot of different parts. The wastegate or the intake can get the output.

When the wastegate is closed, all the boost goes to the wastegate. When it's open, some of the boost leaks to the intake, allowing the engine to start faster.

The top of the N75 is a small screw. In some cars, this screw has a lock so that no one can mess with it. But if you're lucky, you won't be thread-locked and can change it.

Because the ECU expects a certain level of performance from the car, if you mess up, it will go all LIMP on you. You only need to make very small changes to make a big difference.

Setting the N75 valve correctly requires some skill, but doing so results in very little air being evacuated from the wastegate, resulting in a smoother power delivery but less overall boost.

Turn it to the left and you'll get more boost going to the wastegate, but you'll see the power rise and fall as the N75 shuts and opens.

Basically, a performance version has more control, a faster response, and is less likely to stick or leak. All of these things can cause problems with your power delivery, so a performance version is better for you.

If you want to swap your N75 for a N18, we've heard that it works, but you'd be better off getting a high-performance version.

2.0TFSi Turbocharger Guide for the K03, K03S, and K04 Turbochargers

The K03 turbo, max pressure is 0.6 bar, was available from 1996 to 2000, when it was replaced by more powerful K03s (0.8 bar).

The K03 turbos are used on the 2.0T engine, which is simpler and less powerful. These engines use a MAF sensor, a cable-operated throttle, and smaller injectors.

K03s turbos are generally used in engines that include both MAF and MAP sensors. These engines use the improved drive-by-wire throttle, which improves response time, fuel economy, and performance.

The KO3 turbo has 12 blades and can produce over 200bhp with the correct supporting upgrades, whilst the K03s has 8 blades and can produce roughly 220 to 250bhp.

The K04 is a bigger turbo with three variants (some suited to the transverse engine layout in the A4)

  1. K04-020 There is no temperature gauge hole in the casing.
  2. K04-022 there is no temperature gauge hole in the housing
  3. K04-023, temperature gauge aperture

When remapped, the base 2.0TFSi should produce approximately 250bhp, and with various tweaks, the K04 can produce around 300bhp.

When driving these turbos hard, you should consider upgrading the air intake and intercooler.

A KO4 turbo is a logical upgrade route for KO3 turbo owners. For optimal power improvements, the software MAP must be fine-tuned, however, most customers find that the KO4 turbo operates great with the basic manufacturer's ECU Map so is pretty much a straight bolt on swap.

It is normally quicker to tune/remap the regular KO3 engine and set the boost to 1 bar as per a lot of aftermarket Audi tuners' standard remaps, and then when the K03 fails, try to replace it with a better flowing unit like the K04 or a nice hybrid.

The KO4 modifies the engine's characteristics and provides a more gratifying drive when pulling hard, and when the KO3 begins to lose steam around 5000 rpm, the KO4 still generates strong power, making it the ideal track day or drag strip turbo.

The KO4 may seem to be more prone to lag, however, this is not the case, and both are extremely comparable in terms of low down low boost power.

There are a variety of aftermarket turbos that fit the conventional down pipe and may be tailored to your needs, with many drivers seeking for a combination of economy below 2500 rpm and substantial power improvements between 3000 and 5500 rpm.

Differences between K03/K03s turbos

The most notable difference between turbos is the number of blades. The K03 has eleven, whereas the K03s has eight.

The actuator that opens the turbine bypass valve is typically a 65N or 85N. Some models included a two-port actuator. Because 180hp engines consume more fuel and need more boost, they need higher-quality actuators with more opening force too cope with the added pressures.

The K03 has the least amount of oomph, but with the right add-ons, it can exceed 190 horsepower. You may get more, but the turbo will last shorter time.

The power of the K03s is greater. The safe limit for K03s is 215 horsepower, which most people achieve. Exceptionally, although we don't have firsthand data to support these claims, this turbo has been advertised to create more than 250 horsepower, so there is plenty of room for error.

This implies that even while operating within the approved safe limits, a K03s adds at least 25 horsepower over a K03. Higher gains can be achieved with ECU tuning/mapping and other supporting mods.

K04 Outperforms the Competition

Unlike the K03 and K03s, the K04 is larger and provides much more power, particularly at the upper end of the RPM range.

The K04's performance can easily approach 350 horsepower with the right modifications and hardware, but the KO4's safe limits are about 240hp. (Safe limits are very conservative but generally the more you exceed these the shorter the life expectancy of the turbo.)

In terms of size The turbos of the K03 and K03s were smaller. Despite having less power, they took significantly less space than the K04 when fitted, which is why they were used in so many VAG group models.

Turbocharged Hybrid 2.0

To increase power, several hybrid turbo manufacturers utilize a larger compressor on the intake side.

Hybrid turbos perform well on the 2.0TFSi; this is when the internals are machined & turbines are switched out to provide alternative blade profiles, substantially altering power delivery and turbo characteristics.

You should be OK if you pay attention to the maps and fuelling. For the greatest results, we suggest a rolling road tune/remap; off-the-shelf maps are rather general and may not completely unleash your potential power.

A word of caution while selecting turbochargers for your 2.0TFSi Tuning project:

Large improved turbo units often have little power at low rpm, whilst low capacity turbo units spool up considerably faster but lack top end power band increases.

The turbo industry is always expanding, and we now see variable vane turbos, in which the vane shape is adjusted based on speed to reduce lag and enhance top end horsepower.

Twin scroll turbos divide the exhaust flow into two channels, which are fed into the turbocharger by differentially slanted vanes. They also improve the engine's scavenging ability.

When more air is sucked into the engine, it is usual for the air flow sensor AFM/MAF on the 2.0TFSi to reach a limit.

We see that 4 bar air sensors can handle significant power improvements, but the OEM air sensor restricts power at a much lower level.

TFSi Issues and common problems.

Because this section was getting quite bulky we've moved the info to a separate 2.0TFSi problems page.

Cam follower wear.

The main weak spot is the cam follower located below the high pressure mechanical fuel pump. it has a low friction coating on it a bit like "Teflon". The follower resembles a thimble that sits on the bottom of the fuel pump. Check this every few years or at 30,000 miles for wear.

This fault was altered in later models with a different cam lobe set up, for example the 220bhp BUL engines are not affected by this issue.

You are looking out for the coating wearing off, if it has worn down and exposes a metal surface this causes very quick wear through the follower and damages the cam shaft.

The first you'll know about it is lost fuel pump pressure and a check engine warning light coming on. It is a simple check that most drivers can perform.

Be very careful about the extremely high fuel pump pressures and ensure the pressure is released from the system, a jet of fuel at this pressure could potentially cut through bone or at the very least cause major injury!

Carbon Build up.

The other commonly reported problem is that of carbon build up on the valves caused by the direct injection.

Although it is a common issue with engines of this type the V6 and V8 engines are more prone due to their lower RPM characteristics. The carbon build up happens because the fuel is not being injected over the valves and this would keep the valves nice and clean.

When the engine is cold the unburned particles are dumped back into the intake, and it is these that foul up the intake. So avoiding short journeys and making sure the engine gets up to operating temperature as quickly as possible will prevent this issue.

After 70,000 miles a decoke is recommended, it does depend on the sort of driving you do though. Adding BG44K to the fuel once a year will keep the engine, injectors and exhaust nice and clean but sadly wont clean the intake valves.

With the rest of the engine performing well the carbon build up is substantially reduced.

A full BG intake clean performed by a specialist with the correct equipment will do a fantastic job of restoring lost performance. If you are not making the power figures you expect then you are probably suffering from this issue.

Larger capacity direct injection engines are even more prone to carbon build up issues.

The carbon build up will rob you of power rather than do any major damage but cleaning out the head will dramatically increase the performance and economy. (An addition of BG44K to my engine raised the average MPG from 31.4 to 37 mpg for a similar journey. AND I HAVE NOT BEEN PAID TO SAY THIS.

It shows how clogged the injectors were in my 70,000 mile 220bhp TFSi engine.)

We have not seen evidence that proves that water/alcohol injection cleans the intake valves with some owners of water injection engines still having the carbon build up issue (biofuels like alcohol are not recommended on FSI engines anyway).

Breather catch tanks are also suggested as a prevention of this problem but again we have heard of owners with these devices still suffering from Carbon build up.

Preventing carbon build up

They say prevention is better than cure so what can be done to prevent this carbon build up issue.

Using good quality clean burn fuel free of bio elements, the higher octane fuels also tend to burn cleaner. Get the engine up to temperature as soon as you can (don't idle it but just drive it steadily at around 2000rpm till it warms up) and keep the engine operating at 3000rpm for 15 minutes per week.

At this RPM range the engine is designed to run hotter and this can help burn off some of the carbon deposits.

Keep an eye on the recirculation valve, the oil this sprays into the intake when it goes is cited as a major cause of the carbon build up. If you notice high oil consumption then get this valve checked ASAP. (TorqueCars regards high oil consumption as over 0.5 litres per 1000 miles.)

2.0 TFSi tuning

Cleaning the head is most effectively done by removal and refitting but due to the expense we'd recommend you get the head flowed and ported whilst it is off.

We have seen some excellent results from intake cleaners that are sprayed at high pressure into the intake, these are not DIY sprays though.

An inspection probe through the intake or via the spark plugs will give an indication on the state of carbon build up allowing you to make an informed decision.

The DIY spray cans of carbon cleaner do at best a minor job, the trick is delivering the cleaner evenly to all of the valves you'll typically see the cylinders closest to the vacuum line getting the most benefit from these.

For best results take off the intake manifold and spray the cleaner directly onto the problem area and leave it to soak in. (Always follow the manufacturers instructions though, I don't doubt that some formulations should  be left on for long periods of time.)

Driving the engine at just over 3000 RPM raises the temperature and puts the engine into a "cleaning mode" where it runs leaner and hotter clearing out a lot of the carbon build up inside the engine, so try to hit this sweet spot as often as you can and for at least 15 minutes per week.

There are a few problems and issues to look out for on other popular vag group engines, but I've split these off into other articles.

  1. 2.0 TFSi carbon buildup issues - direct injection engines require an intake clean.
  2. 2.0 TFSi problems - N75 and N249, high oil consumption,  Cam Follower wear, Water Pump failure, and Turbo issues
  3. 2.0 TDi problems - Flywheel, Oil pump,  Lumpy Idling
  4. 1.8T Problems - Diagnosing the common faults and issues

To discuss any points raised in this article please join our forum  and use the comments below to tell us your experiences with your 2.0TFsi and pass on any tips you've picked up for our readers.

Please Check out my YouTube channel, we're regularly adding new content...

PLEASE HELP: I NEED YOUR DONATIONS TO COVER THE COSTS OF RUNNING THIS SITE AND KEEP IT RUNNING. I do not charge you to access this website and it saves most TorqueCars readers $100's each year - but we are NON PROFIT and not even covering our costs. To keep us running PLEASE Donate here

If you liked this page please share it with your friends, drop a link to it in your favourite forum or use the bookmarking options to save it to your social media profile.

Feedback - What do You Think?

Please use our forums if you wish to ask a tuning question, and please note we do not sell parts or services, we are just an online magazine.

Help us improve, leave a suggestion or tip

Your Constructive comments on this article, I really want to improve this article with your help and suggestions.

Please watch this video and subscribe to my YouTube channel.

21 Responses to “Audi 2.0 TFSi tuning”

  1. Matthew says:

    I have an Audi A5 Sportback with the 211 PS 2.0 TFSi petrol engine. Thankfully it is a company car, if it was my own I would be very unhappy with the oil consumption. I get through a litre every 1500 miles (its 1 year old, 20k miles), Audi have checked it out, but they say as long as it is using less than 1 litre every 1000 miles then it is within spec. Very poor for a new car, and I would not buy one as a private purchase for this reason.

  2. Wavy says:

    Got a 11 a5 2.0.. I try to follow most of those tips above, but do u suggest I idle the car for a minute after reaching my destination? I try to idle da car before every ride for about a minute.

  3. TorqueCars says:

    You only need to idle the engine after a spirited run where the turbo has started to spin up to high speeds and this is to allow it to spin down and cool a little. Idling a car too long at the start of a journey is not really recommended for longer periods of time. In most cases just start your journey and keep your revs low until the engine has warmed up.

  4. Linda says:

    The above article fails to mention a defect with the engine, the symptom of which is high oil consumption, requiring the pistons & rings to be replaced!! My 2009 A5 Cab is having its engine rebuilt by Audi as I write, but this also affects engines built 2010 – 2011 as well. There is an Audi TPI on this but be warned – this is VERY expensive if you’re out of warranty when it goes!

  5. jordan says:

    Hi, i have an audi a5 2.0 tfsi

    I have had the car about 2 months, and since day 1 i have noticed the oil consumption is crazy, i have been topping it up every so many weeks with fully synthetic 5w40 oil. but i searched and i have been told its normal?

    my car has been performance remapped to 255bhp and 340ftlb tourqe.

    also after driving the car about 20 mins i feel the clutch making a grinding noise? i had this problem with my a3 and i dont know if its common problem or normal?

    hope you can help?

  6. Spambhoy says:

    My A5 2.0 TFSI has just failed an oil pressure test and is booked in for a “bottom half engine rebuild”. I believe that’s cam shaft, pistons, rings and con rods amongst other things. I was a litre approximately every 1000k which is nuts. I am considering ( at 47,000 miles ) wether it would be advisable to replace the belt and water pump while they are at it as the whole job is under warranty and the bill is on them ? I’ll hope to report back positively in a few weeks.

  7. Martin says:

    Hi I think you all need to be aware that these tfsi engines are extremely prone to high oil consumption (mine is now 1 litre per 600 miles, 60k on clock, 3 and a bit years old) Audi are a disgrace to deal with (Swindon Audi)they just stick the car on thier computer and say it needs new piston rings, I though you had a do a physical check (cylinder compressions then a wet test if down on pressure) but they want over £2k to carry out this work, the service guy I spoke to said that I shouldnt worry about the cost as my company will be paying for it????? Thay really are scum! Watchdog should investigate Audi as this seems to be a really common problem with this engine.

  8. tanwir says:

    audi would never go for again. absolute failed product. oil leak developed on 2.0 tfsi a3 2009 27,000 miles. how and why? been using up oil like a tank. bottom of engine all coated with oil. paid £25,000 over five years. had it 3 years disgrace vorsprung technik more like poor strung up tecnics

  9. Spambhoy says:

    Got mine back yesterday and running as smooth as before. All work carried out under warranty and the free use of an A1 TFSI Sportback for a week with no cost to me at all. Had no problem with the Audi dealer at all. Time will tell if the problem recurs. 1 Ltr per 600 miles is worse than mine was ?!

  10. Spambhoy says:

    Fingers crossed, no further problems to report.

  11. John G says:

    2010 A5 had high oil consumption have 67K miles the engin light comes on I bring it to my repair shop – the one I insure – and the scan tool gives 4 codes then my guy advises to take back to Audi 2 days later the motor goes now Audi states they wont help ? any advise

  12. marshall peck says:

    Just took command of a 2012 Audi A4 6-speed quattro. Love it. Thanks for outlining things to be aware of. Currently thinking of some siffer mounts at the rear diff and possibly up front.

  13. Jaysback says:

    I had a 2008 A4 S-line 2.0tfsi Quattro. 65k miles on the clock was so bad that Swindon Audi skipped the first oil consumption test and fitted the latest rev oil separator, and sent me away to do the millage test.
    Only managed 350miles and was low on oil again. I got in touch with Audi UK and after many emails with them and Swindon Audi they eventually agreed to repair the car for free. But with a £2500 – £3500 repair bill hanging over the car we chopped it in for a Ford. To little to late Audi. Expect more from a high end brand.

  14. Rob says:


    I an at present considering parting with my Mk1 TT 23,000 miles for a MK2 TT. I think I will keep car after reading here, I also have another MK1 TT with 70,000 miles, in 8 years it has taken only 1 ltr of oil, appears the 1.8T engine is the more reliable.

  15. Tim says:

    I think a distinction should be made here between the earlier 2.0TFSI EA113 engines and the later 2.0TSI EA888 engines.

    The earlier EA113 has its fair share of problems (I own one) but most of the high oil consumption issues are with the EA888 “revised” engine. A colleague in work is having his 2.0TSI engine rebuilt by Audi due to this exact problem. My older EA113 doesn’t have particularly high oil consumption at all.

    None of this excuses some of the poor customer service experienced by people here. It would also be appreciated by many for Audi (and the VAG partners) to offer competitively priced carbon buildup cleaning services. BMW/Mini offer walnut shell blasting services for cleaning their carbon-caked valves on their direct injection engines. A similar service from VAG should be standard.

  16. Steve Kyd says:

    I have an A4 B8, with 2.0 liter TFSi engine that used an excessive amount of oil during the first year. The car broke down with badly coked up spark plugs & was towed to service. An oil consumption test followed where 800mls of oil was used over 1000kms.
    Audi Australia then replaced Pistons rings & rods plus modified a breather valve. The car now only uses 100mls of oil on a high speed highway run over 6 hours duration. The fuel economy is outstanding on highway travel at 5.7 Ltrs per 100 Klms @ 100 to 110klms per hour.

  17. Kelvin says:

    Anyone has any idea if the common issue on high engine oil consumption , Early water pump failures etc .. Are happening across the 2.0 tfsi engines over the years.

    I read most of feedback given are from car manufacture 2008-2010. Anyone have idea If those in 2012-2013 faces the same .

  18. Tony roberts says:

    Hi Steve Kyd

    I am from Melbourne with 2008 Audi TT and oil issues.

    Can you tell me who you were dealing with at Audi ?



  19. Aleksandar Panayotov says:

    Hi all
    I have the 2011 A6 3.0 TFSI and the oil consumption is high as well. Does any one has experience with this engine (CGWB) and know what could be done?

  20. Erick says:

    I thought this article was great coming from someone who has little to no knowledge on audi a3s. I will be using this data to tune my 2008 audi a3 8p bpy. thanks for the recommendations!

  21. Aus Tex says:

    2007 A3 S-line 6-speed manual 170k miles and going strong! No serious engine mods to improve performance but made sensible upgrades while replacing parts. I have done all recommended maintenance to date and respective of mileage. I have never changed the rings or anything that deep in my engine.Also, I have yet to do a carbon cleaning and my mechanic didn’t recommend it to me after he inspected the valves. I do run BK44k through the tank every 20k miles or so. When I’m doing the BG treatment, I’ll run through about half a tank of gas and then top off again.

    My 2.0t FSI used to consume oil quite a bit, there were issues that needed to be addressed but the singular thing that reduced my oil consumption was the oil I was using. Mind you,, I was very selective about observing manufacturers recommendations from Audi. Regardless of the previous lubricants meeting and supposedly exceeding manufacturers specs, my A3 drank them all. Here is the oil that worked wonders for me:
    Liquid Moly 2331 Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40

    From my research and experience, ensure that “Leichtlauf” is clearly written on the oil you purchase.

    Apparently, this is only manufactured in Germany and is the only one that is truly full synthetic. Whatever the case, I’ve never tried the oil lacking that specific word.

    Mechanical concerns:
    I installed a new PCV, the gasket, and the corresponding hoses, there are two. Supposedly, if your oil cap is difficult to remove, that is an indicator of a failed PCV.

    Apologies, I don’t know the name of ann additional valve to check or just replace. It is located on the top corner of my engine that controls the flow of the oil depending on the demand or load you are putting on the engine. It has a lead attached to it, the shaft, that is inserted into the engine has holes all along the entire length. Mine actually had oil coming out of the top where the electrical connector attached.

    Fix any oil leaks or bad gaskets.

    Final thought:
    This is my first turbo car. Fortunately, someone was kind enough to share with me advice that I have followed religiously.

    1. When your car is cold, under no circumstances should you launch the vehicle or power through the gears. You must allow the engine, especially to oil, to come to operating temperatures. The oil is necessary to the longevity of your turbo as it lubricants its Internal components and helps to maintain the temperature of the turbo.
    Do: your own research to discover when your oil is at the proper temp to protect your turbo.

    2. Do not “lag” your engine. This means do not put the pedal down when you are in too high of a gear. Say moving at 40mph, in 5th gear, up a hill and just putting your foot to the floor. This will damage your turbo.
    Do: Shift to a lower, the proper, gear then send it!

    3. Cool your car down properly. If you are on a long trip at highway speeds, on a track day, or if you are doing some HPD, you must allow your engine to shed the heat soaked into the power plant. Turbos spin up off of exhaust gases, at high rpm’s, and are very fragile. If you simply park and shut the engine off you risk burning oil into the bearings of the turbo. This will cause lobes on those bearings eventually leading to catastrophic failure.
    Do: when you are a few miles from your destination, move to the left lane and allow your engine to normalize the engine temperatures. Also, when you arrive, a good practice is to allow the car to idle for a minute or so. You can listen to a song as you unload your car and then turn the engine off. For HPD and track days this is very important, throw a block under your tires, lift the hood and listen to a full song the shut it off.
    4. Change your oil often!

    The specific oil I finally found is primary and I would be curious if those reporting issues are using other brands like I did initially. Happy driving!

    I hope this is of value for o at least one of you.

Member Benefits

Join our forum today and benefit from over 300,000 posts on tuning styling and friendly car banter.

You will also have full access to the modifed car gallery, project car updates and exclusive member only areas.

(All car owners of all ages and from all countries are welcome).

BMW 335i - 2021 COTY

We gave the BMW 335i our coveted car of the year award, read more about this awesome car and see why 335i Tuning Guide

Tips for N54 Tuning

Tips for N55 Tuning
Tips for B58 Tuning

Popular articles

Diesel tuning
Remapping ECU
double clutching
Induction Kits
Customize a car
Chip tuning
Modified car insurance
Track day insurance cover
Diesel remaps
MPG calc
Clean your DPF
Tuning Stages

Induction Kits Vs Panel Filters

Induction Kits vs Panel Filters

Uprating Turbo

Turbo tuning stage 1-3: Aftermarket OEM turbos upgrade kit.

Respraying Car

Tips and how to respray: Respraying a car

Debadged Grills

How to create a debadged Grill

Paint Protection

Ways to protect the paint on your car.

Lpg Conversions

Benefits of conversion to LPG fuel in Cars

MPG Calculator

MPG calculator UK miles per Gallon – calculate MPG