Best Mods: Audi A3 Tuning Guide

"Thanks for reading my Audi A3 tuning tips."

When Audi produces a car, people sit up and take notice, they take a popular format and add refinements to it and give us a great car to modify and tune. When it comes to mods for the A3 there are plenty around. Some A3 mods are great, and others leave much to be desired.

I have owned a total of 5 A3's now over the years from each generation and quite a few different engine options, so I have documented my A3 tuning and modding experiences and tips on these pages.

Please use the feedback at the bottom of my pages to share your experiences with your A3 mods.

Audi needed a credible rival to the Golf and Focus, which are key targets in the European car market - and the design team came up with the A3. So the A3 is the Audi attack on the Golf market done in an upmarket Audi way.

We currently have 4 generations of the A3, so tuning mods and upgrades are plentiful with many options.

  1. Audi 8L A3 Mods 1996-2005 (90-225hp)
  2. Audi 8P A3 Mods 2005-2013 (105-265hp)
  3. 8V A3 2014-2021 (105-300hp)
  4. 8Y A3 2022-2029  (115-400hp)

It was first produced in 1996 where it was restricted to 3 doors. Then in 1999, Audi saw fit to listen to their critics and added a 5 door version.

The early models were a superb effort and good clean MK1 A3's still command a good price on the used market today.

See our video which covers all the principles of tuning your Audi, it contains some tips on engine swaps and how to find cheaper performance components.

They offered a great deal of reliability and were very solidly built with a great range of engines, and thankfully this reputation has continued to this day.

I've actually owned five A3's now, a mk1 a mk2 a mk2 diesel, a mk4 and now the mk5. So I've picked up some pointers and you can learn from my mistakes and discoveries.

The later Mk2 improved on the original by adding more interior space. Interestingly t the interior of the MK2 A3 is the same as in the A4! due to the shared platform and this carries over to later iterations of the A3 too.

In 2013 the model was further refined and revised winning Audi many awards and accolades.

Although subtly different on the outside the platform, engine ranges and the overall package was enhanced and improved and many niggles and problems were sorted.

a3-mk2tuning

Handling and performance easily rivalled the best in its class. The range-topping S3 which was revised in 2001 was incredibly lively and fun to drive and addressed most of the unfair criticisms of the earlier S3 model.

The later RS3 is one of our favorite cars offering fantastic handling and performance. They make superb tuning projects and are great track day cars. The RS3 also serves as inspiration for those wanting to improve the performance of their A3.

Which A3 engines are best?

On the Mk2 range we would choose the petrol 1.8T every time (See our 1.8T tuning guide for more tips on this excellent engine which is ripe for modding.)

We would go with the 2.0 TFSi or the 2.0 TDI 140 as these both offer great returns when tuned but anything around 150hp feels plenty nippy and provides a good driver experience.

170 turbo diesels can be a real pain if the fuel injectors start playing up and they have the dreaded DPF filters. The smaller twincharged cars are pretty maxed out and don't offer much when tuned but are engaging to drive.

The revision to the range in 2012 brought in many welcome improvements and a return to traditional Audi build quality.

The 1.4 TFSi and 1.5 TFSi engines would be our pick of this range as a credible alternative to the diesel options. They offer good power, are quite light and still offer good economy. There are quite a few mods and upgrades on these that will easily add substantial power.

I chose the 1.4TFSi engine in my latest Audi A3, and I am really happy with it. The lighter engine has really improved handling (compared with my 2.0 TDi) and feels much quicker than the 150bhp would suggest.

The newer 1.5 TFsi improves significantly and does feel much more lively than it's predecessor. The carbon build up issues have been resolved with the addition of port injection during the warm up cycle!

The 2012 RS3 is a stunning car, and wears the RS badge very well. Interior space and equipment are all been improved over previous models.

What Are The Best A3 Tuning Upgrades & Modifications?

This is my top 7 list of tuning stages and modifications, commonly done by our members. Decide how far you wish to go in your tuning project before you start.

Getting the correct grade of tuning mods for your planned usage of the car is essential. Stage 3 (competition) mods just don't work well on the road difficult in stop start traffic. and most simple stage 1 mods will make very little difference on their own.

Please watch my video which covers the principles of Audi A3 tuning. Be sure to subscribe and support our new channel.

Best A3 Mods

  1. Audi A3 Mapping - remapping provides the most advantage in terms of cost savings,  aftermarket ECUs, and piggyback ECUs are all alternatives.
  2. Audi A3 Suspension mods and upgrades - a decent set of coilovers will transform the handling, the basic suspension is too soft and the S-Line is regarded as too hard and crashy by many drivers.
  3. Audi A3 Intake and Exhaust - Note that on their own these mods will NOT ADD POWER in most cases, but they can help enhance power after other mods by removing the restriction.
  4. Audi A3 Upgrades to turbochargers  - forced induction is the most efficient approach to increase air supply, allowing you to burn more fuel and make more power. It is one of the most costly upgrades but provides the best gains.
  5. Audi A3 Brake upgrades are important and it is quite easy on the A3 to dramatically improve the stopping power
  6. Audi A3 Fast road cams are one of the most significant mechanical changes, but they must be installed by someone who knows what they're doing and they are not always easy to source but you might find a local firm to regrind a stock camshaft.
  7. Audi A3 Head work - The goals of porting and flowing the head are to get air flowing into the engine while removing flow restrictions and turbulence. The later engines offer less of a gain, bu the early ones benefit from Porting.

The Tuning Stages for the Audi A3

Typical stage 1 mods often include: Alloy wheels, Sports exhaust, Remap, Panel air filter, Lighter flywheel, Suspension upgrade (drop 30-40mm).

Typical stage 2 mods often include: Fast road cam, high flow fuel injector, Ported and polished head, Power/Sport clutch, fuel pump upgrades.

Typical stage 3 mods often include: Competition cam, Engine balancing, Internal engine upgrades (pistons/head/valves), Adding or upgrading forced induction (turbo/supercharger), Sports gearbox.

Peak power is nice in motorsport but for a daily driven car, you need a long power band and perhaps extending the rev range.

Tuning tips and articles

I love the Tiptronic autoboxes, they are so efficient and sporty it makes having a manual stick redundant.

Audi A3 Engine Tuning

Avoid the early mk1's 1.6 liter engine (no turbo) as it feels too underpowered and costs a small fortune to make even a small power hike.

I have taken the time to cover as many popular A3 engines as I can, here are links to our A3 engine tuning guides with plenty of tips on modding them. Many of these would be suitable as engine swap candidates, but it is easier to swap from the same generation generally speaking.

On the Mk2's and Mk3's the 1.8T and the later 2.0TFSi and 2.5 TFSi are the best propositions although the 2.0 TDI's and all Quattro models give a good mix of power and economy.

The early 1.4TSi and TFSi was an interesting a lively engine, with a twincharge option on some models and remapping these yields fantastic results.

From 2012 anything producing 150bhp feels incredibly lively, the smaller lighter TFSI  engines just add to the experience

The later 1.4 TFSi and 1.5 TFSi are simply amazing, small light revvy and pretty powerful, for a person looking for power and economy there is no other choice. (We are working on the guides for the 1.5 engines at the moment.)

The RS engine is the range topping "go-to" model but even the new diesel engines have become quite refined and clean burning now.

You can easily tune an A3 and the best way do this is via a remap.

A3 Remapping

A remap is your first and most effective choice of a mod if you have an A3 fitted with a turbo. The right map can make a massive difference to the cars performance and handling.

What is it about OEM A3 tuning maps that makes them so bad? In most cases, a single configuration for everyone involves some parameter tuning with local fuel emission regulations and temperatures in mind when the ECU map is setup.

Timing maps take into account temperature variations, minor imperfections, and inclement weather. It is not unusual for each area's CO2, HC, and NOx emission targets to differ.

Manufacturers do not want customers to be inconvenienced by mechanical or fuel efficiency concerns, and since various nations use different gasoline grades and have varying degrees of inclement weather, a fudged configuration of the ECU is essential to keep everything running smoothly.

The output of each A3 might vary by up to 20bhp depending on component quality and installation. They use a one-size-fits-all technique instead of tailoring timing maps for each automobile.

Manufacturers employ remaps to enhance engine power and fulfill required specifications in order to minimize insurance costs and improve fuel economy. This includes the need for a system that can handle late or missing routine service, filthy plugs and leads, clogged air filters, and partially blocked injectors.

What's the difference between 109hp 150hp and 170hp A3 engines?

The power outputs of a 2.0TDi engine range from 109hp to 170hp, with the mapping and perhaps a different turbocharger making up the majority of the variation. So these are ripe for mods, and quite easily jump to the next power level up.

Usually the mid to top power engines have better injectors and stronger head bolts, so it's easy to take say a 140hp to 170hp and more of a challenge to push a 109hp to 170hp.

So, given that the average TorqueCars reader will be upgrading components, a remap seems reasonable.

Which A3's are best for remapping?

All modern turbocharged A3 engines benefit from remaps, which increase power by 20-30%. TorqueCars recommends remapping turbocharged vehicles on a rolling road Dyno to completely harness the horsepower from your modifications.

The Negatives of remapping an A3

Let's look at the potentially unforeseen costs after remapping, all that extra power will have a hidden cost, and if you know what that is you can avoid these potential problems.

  1. Prepare to get your vehicle serviced more regularly, sometimes halving the service frequency for extra insurance.
  2. If the map was tuned for high octane or cetane fuel, you must be prepared to stick to that high octane/cetane fuel
  3. you must be also prepared to replace components that fail as a consequence of the increased work they are doing.
  4. When an engine is adjusted for higher power, components such as pipes, injectors and turbocharges and even airflow sensors are placed under additional pressure.
  5. Weak areas in an engine typically reappear months after remapping. See our remap troubleshooting guide for more information.
  6. Following a remap, turbocharger and clutch deficiencies are common but these were inherently there before the map and just not manifested until the engine is worked harder
  7. Furthermore, turbos may deteriorate over time, important engine components such as pistons and bearings require upkeep, and the clutch becomes likely to have issues with a remap if it is old or has had a hard life.

What about remaps for a NASP Audi A3?

If you don't have a turbo, a remap will only add a few BHP (10% is common), but you may notice more or less depending on the other changes you've done.

TorqueCars recommends that non-turbo vehicles first change everything else (cams, pistons, increase compression, engine balance, air intake, exhaust, head work, bigger valves etc...)

Following that, you might consider a remap to help you get the most out of them.

Turbocharged engine maintenance

Furthermore, a remap often adds boost from lower down the rpm range, forcing the turbo to run quicker and hotter. This may also produce a lot of wheelspin, so keep this in mind while driving a mapped A3.

In this instance, you must allow the turbo to cool before shutting off the engine, otherwise the oil may deteriorate, necessitating an expensive turbo repair. Adding a turbo timer will also help keep the engine running until it cools.

Be cautious of claims of peak power on your A3.

When comparing maps, please disregard peak power since some tuners are known to create a power blip or spike to draw attention and capture those headline power statistics.

See the graph below for an example of what we mean.

The red plot above indicates an increase in power, but power is much everywhere else, while the green trace shows a consistent rise in power across the RPM range.

So the 200hp headline is attractive until you see how it looks on a dyno plot. The green plot is a much better map for your A3 despite the lower power claim of 175hp.

It reaches peak power at 4000rpm, which is excellent for an engine that redlines at 7000rpm, giving you a good distribution of additional power where you need it the most.

Remapping companies are not all the same

Many are just offering a franchised map, where the installer has little or no knowledge of your car. Reviews are helpful and feedback from our forum members to see how people have got on in your area.

Otherwise you must travel to the company's headquarters to find out whether the map has ever been tested or analyzed.

Here, you'll often see someone with a laptop tinkering with the fuel and spark advance tables, hoping for the best but never really seeing the vehicles they're tuning. Worse, they may email the map for modification remotely and not even have the expertise to optimize your vehicle.

Notes about mods on the A3 engines

In a 1.8T head the exhaust uses 2 valves and the intake uses the 3. This makes the exhaust gas exhalation a weak spot in the engine despite the larger exhaust ports.

Enlarging the exit ports, doing a 3 angle valve job on the intake ports and flowing the head will greatly help improve the airflow and should be considered essential if you are after large power gains.

The 2.0T FSI engine is quite remappable but early engines were prone to a few weaknesses which thankfully Audi have now sorted out.

A remap on the 2.0T FSI can push the power to over 250bhp easily. With a bigger or hybrid turbo you can see power figures in the order of 350 to 400bhp!

The 2.0 TDI is a great engine, if a little agricultural compared to other more refined diesels, with a slight lump on tick over.

It is a solid performer and returns stellar levels of fuel economy even when pushed hard. Our 2.0TDI tuning guide has more information on this engine and what to look out for.

A3 Intercooler upgrade options

Fitting a twin intercooler to the A3 like the ones used in the S3 will help to address the problem of heat soak. A front-mounted intercooler is better but will require a different intake, like that on the 225bhp TT where the inlet is on the right and this makes it easier to connect a front-mounted intercooler.

The later 2.0 TFSi engines reportedly suffer from cam follower wear and the intake clogging up with carbon. See our 2.0 TFSi article for details.

See our 1.8T tuning guide for more tips on this excellent engine.

A3 Turbo Upgrade Options

Fitting a larger turbo will be a logical upgrade path on all cars.

Compared to K04, K04 Offers a Bigger Advantage. The K04, compared to the K03 and K03s, is substantially bigger and provides far superior results.

The KO4 makes sense if you have the KO3 turbo, even diesels will benefit from a turbo upgrade, see our engine specific articles for tips on which turbo's to choose on these. Hybrid turbos are also an option.

Turbo limits - safe should retain factory reliability and longevity, the Max however is pushing to the limits and will certainly shorten the turbo's lifespan.

TurboSafe MaxMaximum
K03190hp220hp
K03s215hp250hp
K04220hp350hp

Limits on Power

With a few tweaks Re-mapping of K03s 210 to 220 horsepower is what you can anticipate from your K03 turbo with a Stage 1 Remapping (Air filter, exhaust, bolt on modifications).

However, Stage 2 Remapping (cat replacements, fueling enhancements, and intercooler upgrades) may generate power that ranges from 230 bhp to 250 bhp, depending on the modifications.

Be aware of the fact that an intercooler is necessary for Stage 2 remapping in order to decrease the air temperature, otherwise you'll be limited to a lower power output.

A3 Turbochargers From The VAG Group's Newer Generation

The IHI IS12, IS20, and IS38 turbochargers are the most recent VAG turbocharger generations, replacing the K03, K03s, and K04 turbochargers.

As opposed to Audi and VW's factory turbos, the IS12 and IS20 have been modified to work with their 2.0t MQB engines, respectively.

Why Is the IS38 Turbo So Powerful?

The IS38 turbo is notable since it can provide up to 370 horsepower with a simple bolt-on (with the proper add-ons).

See our guide to the VAG Group turbochargers for more information on the options to upgrade your turbo.

A3 Induction Kits

Fitting an induction kit or panel filter to the 2.0 TFSi engine will give a more relaxed drive, the engine will hold revs more easily and you'll find more top end power in your modified A3 tuning project.

Panel filters and inductions kits MAKE NO DIFFERENCE on the Diesel models so don't waste time fitting them (I've tried it myself and wasted my money so you don't have to).

The standard airboxes flow really well (the same goes for exhausts on the diesel, although a better flowing DPF will help if yours has one fitted).

Purple A3 tuning

A3 Handling Mods.

Handling on later editions of the A3 have been considerably improved. Fit poly bushings and anti roll bars to tighten things up if they are starting to wear.

The earlier A3 is prone to lift-off oversteer thanks in part to its torsion beam rear suspension.

This can be a blessing or a curse depending on your driving style but this little trait has got me out of trouble a number of times.

Good suspension tweaks that dramatically benefit handling for the A3 include a couple of degrees negative camber and 1-1.5 degrees of toe in or out on the front wheels.

Toe in for stability, or Toe out to improve cornering. It would also pay to improve the brakes, by adding larger discs and or higher friction pads.

We would go to a maximum drop of 27mm - 40 mm on most models - bear in mind the s-line suspension is already around 15mm lower. You risk rubbing on the arches if you go lower than this.

Rear suspension bushes should be checked if you have a rattle from the rear.

This can be quite a big job to do and requires a special tool but your handling will be greatly compromised if you leave the worn bushes on the car.

You can use polyurethane bushes but we would suggest the main rear bushes are left as VAG spec rubber ones.

We have not tried and tested all tires but in our experience the best tires for the A3 are...

  • Mk1 A3 are the Goodyear Eagle F1 which, although they wear quite quickly they do add a lot of cornering grip and feel. Conti Sports and Michelin Pilots also work very well and are great in wet conditions.
  • The Mk2 A3 works well with Pirelli Pzero Rossa, and Continental Conti sport 5 or 6.
  • Mk3 A3's follow the Mk2 tire recommendations but we would also add the Goodyear SP Sport MAX as an option we have tried and really liked.

A strut brace will help to give a little more front end rigidity.

Brake upgrades for the A3

Brake upgrades are a good idea for any tuning project. Don't forget about the brake pads, which are more vital than the disks, and choosing the wrong pad material might have a negative impact on your A3's braking ability and the lifespan of your disc.

How do brakes function?

Brakes are essential since traveling rapidly necessitates the ability to stop rapidly! A brake works by forcing a friction pad against a disk to convert kinetic energy into heat.

The dissipation of this head slows the car's forward momentum. Excessive braking generates brake heat, as observed in nighttime racing, when the brakes brightly glow from the heat after intense usage.

When you press the brake pedal, the force is transmitted to a "magical box" called a servo, which utilizes engine power to amplify your foot pressure.

The increased pressure is delivered to the friction pads through brake fluid-filled tubes/pipes (liquids do not compress like air so are well suited to direct your braking force to your Audi A3 pads).

The brake fluid itself may grow fairly hot to the hot brake pad end, placing extra demands on the brake fluid; thus, specify a good brake fluid, with a glycol-based dot 5.1 fitting the bill admirably.

Easy A3 brake mods from the VAG parts bin.

The 1.6 will probably have the 256 or 288mm disc measure them to check this before buying an upgrade. The 2.8 Golf uses 312mm and the R32 334mm both of which make an excellent upgrade path for your A3.

There are quite a few options to choose from thankfully, with anything from vented drilled and grooved and conversions to 4 and 6 pot calipers.

For most drivers of a high performance tuned A3 a slightly larger set from the S or RS range will be more than enough, and because these can be sourced from breakers yards and on the used market, will not cost a fortune, compared with an aftermarket setup.

Don't go silly with your brake upgrades, you need only to stop the car, not affect the earths rotation!

Because the pad transfers braking heat across the discs, the cooler the disc remains, the better. The stopping power of a vehicle can be boosted by installing bigger discs, but this will need the purchase of new calipers and pads to accommodate the larger disc.

Normally, you would replace the discs and pads. Because a bigger disc has greater friction and disperses more heat, you will notice an immediate advantage.

The vented disc's middle channel increases the surface to air ratio of the disc, resulting in better and quicker cooling.

Drilled discs help keep pads "clean and sharp" by boosting the air ratio and reducing gas vapor build up between the pad and the disc. Larger discs result in improved cooling, however, they may demand a different alloy wheel.

Advantages of larger brake discs on the A3

The larger surface area gives better heat dissipation and allows them to tolerate more heat than a smaller disc. Adding vents and grooves also improves the cooling effect (although the surface area is reduced) and will aid the pads by allowing gases/vapors to flow away rather than forming a cushion.

So when modding your A3, be sure to look carefully at your brake mod options, and go for the optimum braking you can get, which doesn't mean the largest discs, it just needs to be appropriate to your needs and A3's state of tune.

You'll get more feel, and the pressure of your foot will have more of a bearing on the rate at which the car slows. This can help knock time off your track day laps as you'll have more precise control over braking.

Most A3 drivers find that larger discs will last longer, although we suspect this is because you don't have to be as heavy with them.

The S3, RS3 and RS4 are also fitted with bigger discs and providing the stud pattern is correct and you have the right clearance within your wheels you could use these as your upgrade.

If your A3 has the 256mm or 288mm discs then it has different hub carriers and won't allow you to fit the larger disks.

If this is your situation then you should look for the hubs from the later 1.8t, Octavia VRS, or Seat Leon Cupra. You can usually pick these up from a breaker's yard quite cheaply.

Another option for a more radical upgrade is to fit Porsche 996 calipers on the car and go with a Porsche brake setup.

A3 Brake Pads

Simply adding decent brake pads to your A3 will improve braking. We find that pad friction degrades as they get older, thanks in part to many warming and cooling cycles. So avoid replacing pads when they are fully worn as this is a false economy.

Please note that race spec pads are designed to work in a much higher temperature range. This ensures they stay effective on a track when they are really hot.

The downside is the lack of bite when they are cold, although it may only take a second or so to warm up and start biting, that still represents a longer braking distance and for this reason, TorqueCars do not recommend them for road use.

Brake dust is another frustration, with some pads causing a lot of dust to accumulate on the rims. This also presents a big environmental risk that road lobbyists are picking up on, so expect legislation to govern the number of dust particles a car's brakes produce.

Most of the low brake dust pads suffer from noise, although there are some good ones out there. The cheap way of reducing dust is making them harder to wear and effectively reducing their performance.

I personally fit Pagid pads on my A3, and find they work really well on the road but are still reasonably effective on the track. But our members have tried lots of others that they really rate and recommend.

Material for the pads.

High friction brake pads, however, are recommended, even if they cause noise and dust because you want the best stopping power in your A3 modding project.

High-friction racing brakes employ a high-temperature compound that is less effective at lower temperatures, making it more challenging for the road and causing more noise.

Because racing grade brake pads only operate when they are very hot, they are inappropriate for use on the road, where braking is typically performed on cold pads or in short bursts.

So far, TorqueCars has found that quick road pads from Pagid, Green Stuff, and Black Diamond provide a decent balance of braking and wear on the A3.

Always change the brake fluid and test any mods to your bakes, if you are unsure about mechanical work on your car, the brakes are best left to someone with experience.

The most dangerous modifications we see are generally related to brakes, or a poorly setup/balanced braking system.

A3 Alloy Wheel Upgrades.

The benefits of alloys include lowering your unsprung weight and more efficient brake cooling.

We can't go into too much detail here about tires but they are how the car puts the power down on the road so are a critical choice. directional tread pattern tires work well on A3, and make a big difference over budget tires. Large A3 alloy wheels can decrease performance. If you get big alloy wheels you will be changing your final drive ratio.

With this in mind aim to keep the overall rolling diameter of the wheel the standard factory sizes. In all cases, we do not recommend going larger than 17 inches.

The 18's feel too heavy and mars the car's excellent handling, and I only discovered this when I got to drive a similar A3 with 17's and it felt so much better.

I would happily run with 18's if I needed to fit larger brakes, but I do prefer the handling on the 17's. Weight is a big factor here and perhaps light 18's will not feel much different to 17's.

A3 Buyers guide, A3 problems, weakspots and things to look out for.

The early pre 2003 models had little rear legroom and essentially this restricted the rear for young passengers. Boot space is generally very good. Some owners of the 1.8T engine reported problems with early coil packs, although these will most certainly have been replaced by now.

Gear change on Mk 1 particularly into 1st and sometimes into 2nd can be a little notchy at times when rushed on a cold gearbox combined with short journeys. A quick shift kit can improve this. Check that the gearbox oil level is topped up and don't fit thick car mats. Yes, that's right you need every mm of clutch pedal travel. I found out the hard way that the clutch travel was compromised by my mats, and was why I was crunching gears!

This was improved on the MK2 models we have tried and an MK3 gearbox in my current car works perfectly without any notchy gear changes.

Suspension in S line models is hard and crashy, perfect for a thrash around in the countryside but quite wearing for long drives with the family in toe.

A set of adjustable coil overs would hit the compromise between ride quality and handling. We would also bias the toe out a little more on the fronts, with a 1-2 degrees of camber on the front suspension to improve cornering and handling. Most A3's have a pretty good setup, but in poorly maintained examples you need to pay attention and maybe even replace the worn bushings.

The MK2 S line springs tend to break, I had a full set break in the space of a year when the car had hit 90,000 miles, my mechanic told me he's had to change loads of these.

Annoyingly they broke in 2-month intervals and at the time I only had funds to get them fixed singly, waiting for the service to replace the full set. What a false economy that proved to be.

So if you have a broken spring, assume they are all on the way out and get yourself a new set sorted.

Using the wrong type of oil can cause the oil pump to clog up and total engine failure so adhere closely to the specified engine servicing regimen and you should be fine.

The model range was later revised in 2003 addressing the problem of rear passenger legroom.

The early 2.0 TFsi engines (and the 2.0 TDi) had a carbon build up issue & potential timing chain problem, see our 2.0 TFSi article for this engine for more info on how to diagnose, fix this.

There are a few problems and issues to look out for on  vag group engines, but I've split these off into other articles.

  1. 2.0 TFSi carbon buildup issues - direct injection engines require an intake clean.
  2. 2.0 TFSi problems - N75 and N249, high oil consumption,  Cam Follower wear, Water Pump failure, and Turbo issues
  3. 2.0 TDi problems - Flywheel, Oil pump,  Lumpy Idling
  4. 1.8T Problems - Diagnosing the common faults and issues

If you would like to know more, or just get some friendly advice on Tuning your car please join us in our friendly forum where you can discuss A3 options in more detail with our A3 owners.

It would also be worth reading our unbiased Audi tuning articles to get a full grasp of the benefits and drawbacks of each modification.

Please Check out my YouTube channel, we're regularly adding new content...

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5 Responses to “A3 tuning”

  1. Gordon Morison says:

    All points very succinct and well covered.My own wheels is an A3 2L Spotrback FSI. I suppose I was expecting too much for this model to be covered , however the main content was excellent .

  2. TorqueCars says:

    We have an article for that engine here http://www.torquecars.com/audi/2-0-tfsi-tuning.php

  3. Sean Waberski says:

    I drive a 2011 Audi A3 1.8T Cabriolet. 19″ Rims,Downpipe with complete new performance exhaust and chip upgrade….very informative articles to assist me with the last stages of my upgrade, brakes, suspension etc….!

  4. andy knott says:

    great artical do you have anything on the 3.2 v6 a3 as i was thinking of supercharging mine but struggling to find something.

  5. James says:

    Absolutely brilliant articles! Tell me more about the CFFB ea189 140 TDI engine / clutch and gearbox! Id love to hear about reoccurring problems & is it worth getting a rebuilt cffb & adding my own ancillaries? Then tuning after?

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Cheap Project Cars

Cheap project cars
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2011 Car News

2011 car news
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MPG Calculator

MPG calculator UK miles per Gallon – calculate MPG
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