At Last!. I have started on my car ;-)

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For anyone interested, here is a photo of my car. As can be seen, a little more work is required to get it road legal :) But at least I have started.

Welllllll, there would be a picture here (less than 97kb as requested) if only the system would let me post it. It keeps saying that I have exceeded my quota by 67Kb! Help please Waynne
 
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BAD63R said:
Nice project build this. Quite impressed lol ;) only 2 things that spring to mind. I can completly agree with the idea of going for 16s as like you said, you need the clearence. Which leads me onto my next question. Is it front, rear or 4 wheel drive? If it's front then unfortunatly you'll need all the grip you can get with that power. Also if it's rear wheel, then I would be more inclind to have the front in 16s and get a pair of matching rears but have them about 1 inch wider and 1 inch bigger again to give you the extra grip. If it's 4 wheel drive then all is good and 16s all round would probably be fine.

I only ask these questions as I have a silly image in my head of you flooring it and you getting that much toque steer you can't hold onto the steering wheel, or there will be so much power goin through the rear wheels that the backend of the car will probaly cross the line before you do lol.

Would be interest in knowing your drive train etc ;)
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RWD. I think that I would have trouble hooking up 600bhp+ with a FWD set-up :)

Tremec T5 5 speed from a TVR speed 6. Would like a sequential but lack space in the chassis and lack of cash in the wallet preclude this for the moment.

Ford Sierra Cosworth 7.5" diff. This will be fitted with a trick LSD once car has been shaken down.

Made to specification rifle drilled driveshafts connected to Cosworth hubs fitted in bespoke carriers.

Rear wheel width restricted by the damper bottom mount, so this is going to be moved inward to allow wider wheels to be accomodated, probably 9.5" or 10".

Backs have to be 17s in order to clear calipers. Fronts can be smaller if required but as yet undecided.

Traction and launch control will be fitted.
 
Update

Working on air intakes for oil cooler and air filter.



Oil cooler will be under o/s headlamp pod. The two holes should be sufficient. However the air filter, mounted under the n/s pod, will need a lot more air.



As car and wire mesh will be black the inlets shouldn't be too intrusive.
 
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old-git said:
Update

Working on air intakes for oil cooler and air filter.



Oil cooler will be under o/s headlamp pod. The two holes should be sufficient. However the air filter, mounted under the n/s pod, will need a lot more air.



As car and wire mesh will be black the inlets shouldn't be too intrusive.
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the front bumper is so cool, now exactly what car do i need to look for, as the yours one?
 
Update 15 Feb 2009

Front headlamp holes almost finished, ready to be cut out again :)


Started to work out positioning of pedal box and seat in relation to gear lever (only fixed point). Once these are fixed the steering column will be positioned to be in line with seat and next to gear lever so hand just has to move to the side.


Ducting at top of photo will be used to connect air filter to turbo.
 
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yup i work with 3 and 4" pipework all day, looked a bit bigger.

have you managed to find a trumpet for it yet, and i take it your making an adaptor to take it from 5" down to 3"
 
this car will be ??????? (sorry cant think of the word im looking for!!) so im subscribing to this thread to watch the progress as it happens :bigsmile:
 
pgarner said:
yup i work with 3 and 4" pipework all day, looked a bit bigger.

have you managed to find a trumpet for it yet, and i take it your making an adaptor to take it from 5" down to 3"
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Yes, found a trumpet with the same neck ID as the turbo. To the back of the neck will be attached a 125mm diameter disc. Around the rim will be attached a 25mm wide cylinder over which the duct will fit.


The trick is to encase the trumpet WITHIN the ducting with a 10mm gap between the edge of the triumpet and the ducting so that air is sucked in from behind the trumpet as well as from the front.

Far too technical and clever for me, but this is what the really quick boys do as it increases the air flow efficiency by over 20%, so who am I to argue?
 
old-git said:
My engine guru calls it bonkers :)
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no mate the word bonkers just doesnt cut it!!! im thinking of all the swear words i know and the intelligent ones i know but still nothing springs to mind that covers what this car will be :confused: maybe a new word needs to be invented to describe your potential car????
 
pgarner said:
Fast.

i would have thought that you would hve lost some pressure by not having it sealed but like you say if its been tried and tested....
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It is sealed. Cross section sketch below hopefully explains it better.


The way I understand it is that, on a normal trumpet setup, any air hitting the trumpet lip only flows into the turbo if it hits the lip on the inlet side. Any air hitting the outer edge of the lip is lost. With the trumpet enclosed within a duct air actually flows from behind the opening into the duct, thereby increasing flow and efficiency. Every little improvement achieved gains a litle more power. Obviously, the duct will be insulated from under bonnet heat.
 
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herb said:
no mate the word bonkers just doesnt cut it!!! im thinking of all the swear words i know and the intelligent ones i know but still nothing springs to mind that covers what this car will be :confused: maybe a new word needs to be invented to describe your potential car????
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I like to think that it is going to be interesting to drive :)

However, I will be buying a stock of brown pants.

PS. Picked up radiator today. This will be dry fitted over the weekend so we can then firm up on intercooler location and dimensions.
 
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makes more sense now, was thinking what would be the point of fitting a filter if it wasnt going to be sealed as when driving it on the roads at lower speed the air would take the route with less resistance, around the ducting rather than through the filter
 
pgarner said:
makes more sense now, was thinking what would be the point of fitting a filter if it wasnt going to be sealed as when driving it on the roads at lower speed the air would take the route with less resistance, around the ducting rather than through the filter
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Filter is at other end of duct so the air in the duct has already passed through the filter. Unfortunately, there isn't enough room to get the 5" duct past the radiator so I am going to have to make a squashed fibreglass duct with the same cross-sectional area (20 square inches) - However this is the sort of thing I enjoy doing, so no real hardship :)
 
the car's looking hot, i like the style, so it's obvious it's not like the old stock one, isn't it?
i like the color too, it'll be racing flavor..... nice done.
 
charger69 said:
the car's looking hot, i like the style, so it's obvious it's not like the old stock one, isn't it?
i like the color too, it'll be racing flavor..... nice done.
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It is a tad different from a standard Elan, yes.

Colour is only primer/filler. Car will be black when sprayed :) (boring, I know, but it has been black for over 20 years and see no reason to change now)
 
pgarner said:
ok how do you stop it falling apart ? i couldnt manage it last time i had a play with it, soon as i painted on the resin it started to fall to pieces
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Ah, it's all in the timing :)

You may have been using the cheap, thin stuff that often comes with the kits sold in car spares shops. The heavier duty stuff is much more resiliant to rough handling when wet.

The air dam and splitter are CSM, as well as the headlamp covers.
 
yeah the stuff i was using came in the kit, my local hardware shop didnt do the CSM only tissue thats why i switched to that and found it alot easier to work with. might give the CSM another go to build in the guages
 
pgarner said:
yeah the stuff i was using came in the kit, my local hardware shop didnt do the CSM only tissue thats why i switched to that and found it alot easier to work with. might give the CSM another go to build in the guages
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The tissue is usually only used as the first layer in a mould so as to get a better finish. It has no structural stength and would indeed fall apart if used like FG :)

How much do you need?
 
charger69 said:
how much HP, and what's the car weight?
is it more lighter than the stock one, i think it is.....
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520bhp on unleaded
620+bhp on C16 racing fuel

Weight less than 650Kg. Standard car weighs 700kg. I have removed a lot of unnecessary weight but have also added a lot of weight; Engine, gearbox and rear diff are a lot heavier than standard items.
 
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200+ Replies! WOW. It's putting a strain on the database server so I've started a part 2 thread and closed this one.

www.torquecars.com

At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2

THIS THREAD IS A CONTINUATION OF THIS THREAD https://www.torquecars.com/forums/threads/at-last-i-have-started-on-my-car.2454/ not very much its more a case of stripping out the ashtray and making something the same size, looking at using stretched fleece to make the starting mould, then could...
www.torquecars.com www.torquecars.com

I will also archive the thread in Lotus forum when the car is finished;)
 
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waynne said:
200+ Replies! WOW. It's putting a strain on the database server so I've started a part 2 thread and closed this one.

www.torquecars.com

At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2

THIS THREAD IS A CONTINUATION OF THIS THREAD https://www.torquecars.com/forums/threads/at-last-i-have-started-on-my-car.2454/ not very much its more a case of stripping out the ashtray and making something the same size, looking at using stretched fleece to make the starting mould, then could...
www.torquecars.com www.torquecars.com

I will also archive the thread in Lotus forum when the car is finished;)
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Server from PC World, is it? -)
 
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