Project GT1600 (aka The Reaper)

Introduction

As this is going to be quite a big ongoing project, I thought I may as well get a project thread up for those interested. The car was taken off the road about 10 months ago as I have two cars so only used it as a weekend car anyway. I have plenty of experience from a young age from working on several mates cars and projects and that of my old man. This, however, is my first big project completely on my own.

How the car stands

The car was nearly standard when I got it. It now stands completely stripped weighing 910 kgs and running about 180bhp at 18psi. A GT of the same spec as mine with full interior can run a 14.5 flat quarter mile on crap tyres. So est. low 14's for mine. Bodywork needs attention but is standard.

Plans and goals

Now then, I'm sure I have stated the plans elsewhere on here but I will end up with a stripped, caged, GT with a full (ie blueprintes, forged etc) 1600 build using the 1600 Sporting block running on DTA management. I hope to end up with a dry weight of 900kgs and 250bhp initially just to get it up and running, then push for 300bhp. The suspension and shell will be getting a full overhaul, new bushes, bolts, underseal, few bits of welding etc. I will prep the car and spray it Satin black inside and out.

ANY COMMENTS, QUESTIONS OR CRITISISM (CONSTRUCTIVE PLEASE) WELCOME THROUGHOUT
 
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Really nice to see someone who's got the time and money to build something like this, i promise i will follow your project...... really curious how it's gonna look and drive when it's done.
Keep up mate ;)
 
Cant wait but I'll have to lol.

Thanks I2am2danyel, time is more of an issue than money but messages like yours help when the going gets tough.

Few small updates to put up when I get time. I'm now in possession of a lock-up to move the shell into and start getting the windows out etc once th back end is complete. Going to try and get it painted this weekend and move some of my parts in.
 
I wasn't going to uprate the radiator unless I experienced cooling issues, however I was offerred a second-hand Radtec aluminium radiator and twin Kenlowe fans for a silly price just because it had sprung a tiny leak and rather than tig weld it the owner just bought a new one! These are £365 new without the fans. I payed £160 delivered with the fans :D

Anyway, needless to say I snapped it up but I needed to find the leak. Here's my way to test a radiator for leaks like a true DIY'er.

1. Take an old bike inner tube and cut the a foot long or so section off it including the valve. Length will depend on where you rad inlets and outlets are.

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2. Fill your radiator with water and block up any sensor holes etc. Jubilee clip each end of the inner tube to the inlet and outlet of the rad like so.

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3. Attach a bike/car/whatever tyre pump to the valve on the inner tube.

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4. Pump full of air and look out for any leaks!

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How the car stands from a distance. Will be going in the garage to get the windows and rear lights out etc once the rear end underneath is finished and back together. What a wreck:

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I've already had a POTR Tubular Manifold to use for quite a while. Just bought another though. Protoxide Lateral mount tubular manifold, which moves the position of the turbo from behind the engine to the side of the engine.

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Resulting in it being set up like so:

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Only I won't have an AFM because I'm running DTA. Requires a custom exhaust, water pipes and boost pipes too. The only manifold of its kind in the UK at the moment :amuse:

Here are some pics with the POTR manifold:

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Weight.

Original Cast Manifold - 4.8kgs
POTR Manifold - 4.2kgs
Protoxide Manifold - 4.2kgs

So that's a saving of another 0.6kgs.
 
Holy crap dude!

This is gonna look amazing ones it's done, I can just sense it! keep it up!

I am amazed by how much dedication you got into it :p
 
Thanks gentlemen. Neither can I :lol::lol::lol::lol:

Lost a bit of motivation at the moment, I'm putting a lot of time and effort into something else right now but this was never meant to be a rush job in the first place!
 
Custom made polyurethane rear engine/gearbox mount. Rock hard and this mount allows the most movement of all three by a long shot. I know of people that have busted two or three on their GT's under hard launching. Should make quite the difference.

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Finished taking apart the old 1400 block and started to clean it up along with some of the components. Wear-wise everythings looks in very good condition for an 86,000 mile, 11 year old engine. Had a fair bit of abuse in the past ;) This'll be rebuilt with cheapish forged pistons (Wossner probably) and standard rods to keep as a spare engine for whatever reason.

After a bit of a clean. Needs acid dipping :amuse::

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Washing various bits and bobs:

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Dirty big end cap vs. clean big end cap:

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Also, this was across the road in a neighbours garage when I got back from work. She said she didn't expect that when she agreed to take a parcel in! PMSL!

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Had to have a ganders didn't I...Living room roll cage FTW! :lol:

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Has door bars but obviously they need welding on yet as the height will be decided upon once the cage it fitted.
 
Ticking over slowly but the weather's been poor and it goes dark so early. Waiting on polycarb windows and Sparco CF pedals to arrive and slowly sorting out my shed/lock-up/back garden/house so I know where everything is.

Also, the the other GT has priority as it's my daily driver so need to get it to my standard first.
 
MA can you answer me a question?
My mate has a punto turbo and I think the clutch has gone. He can get gears but it goes no where. It's like the clutch pedal is pressed all the way down all the time. Would you be able to comfirm my thoughts mate?
 
I'd check the slave cylinder for leaks first. It sits on top of the gearbox but you can just check by checking the brake fluid level. They share.
 
Just re-read it properly, if the slave cylinder was leaking the peddle would have no resistance so it does sound like the clutch to me. Quite an easy job tbh, I reckon you'd be able to do it if he can't. Hardest part is lining the clutch back up or the gearbox won't go back on but if you've got on of those alignment tool things bobs your uncle. I can give you a proper run-through if you like but if you just remove the battery and unbolt the tray then take a look it should become pretty clear.

Not sure about how much it'll cost at a garage, about as much as any other small-engined car tbh.
 
Just re-read it properly, if the slave cylinder was leaking the peddle would have no resistance so it does sound like the clutch to me. Quite an easy job tbh, I reckon you'd be able to do it if he can't. Hardest part is lining the clutch back up or the gearbox won't go back on but if you've got on of those alignment tool things bobs your uncle. I can give you a proper run-through if you like but if you just remove the battery and unbolt the tray then take a look it should become pretty clear.

Not sure about how much it'll cost at a garage, about as much as any other small-engined car tbh.

Not cost at a garage silly. Any idea how much a clutch itself would be?
The peddle is stiff but it just won't move clutch in or out.
 
:embarrest: Oops. You're looking at £80-£90 inc. VAT at a local motor factors. Just make sure you get a Valeo or Luk one as these are as good as OEM Fiat and can take 225bhp+ easily.
 
Cheers for that buddy as regards the tool thingy for the clutch any idea how much they are? Do you know of any links to one so I can see what i'm after buddy cause it looks like i've been given the job.:lol:
 
MA looks like i'll be doing this clutch this afternoon. Have you got any tips on how to re allign the clutch without the special tool? Anythin I should know about before taking the box off?
 
MA looks like i'll be doing this clutch this afternoon. Have you got any tips on how to re allign the clutch without the special tool? Anythin I should know about before taking the box off?

Not really, it's fairly simple. Once the battery and battery try are out it'll become clear. You'll have to undo the gearbox mount underneath too. It needs to be realigned with the flywheel like most other clutches with a bit of trial and error and using a socket or something to push it in the right direction. It's hard to explain but you'll see when you put it all back together.

Don't forget to unplug the speedo sensor at the back of the box (green cover over the wire) in case you break it whilst taking the box off.
 
If the clutch pedal feels fairly normal, it is possible that the clutch plate has had the centre plate ripped out, not common but when this happens you can select gears, but there is no drive,
You need to remove gearbox and clutch regardless, I doubt this is a hydraulic problem.
 
Bargain alert! Picked up this baby yesterday...

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It's and SIP 5 gallon parts washer for the tidy sum of £10 brand new. The surprise though, is that it was from Halfrauds! Had to reserve online then pick up but it's reduced from something like £50. Don't think there'll be many left now but worth a look!

1.5hp 7cfm Compressors on the website for £10 too but they all sold out a long time ago! CHECK IT OUT!
 
We're talking selling up, keeping the other GT as a daily driver and to fettle with then....spunking 10-15k on a good Integrale Evo 1.
it would be a shame to see the reaper go i would have loved to follow the progress till the end and beyond!! but needs be

but on the plus side an integrale would make an great read for us armchair mechanics to read about!!
i take it your good with a welder?? and the evo1 was that the 8v??
 
I know I'm in two minds and doing some serious thinking. It's going to take about another £4k to plus a hell of a lot of work to finish.

I'm alright with a welder but I have the blue GT to fiddle with, I'd be buying a virtually mint standard 'grale with the aim of keeping it that way, maybe with a few minor engine mods. I think I'm losing interest because the blue one is fulfilling my need to fettle for the moment.

16v but they did release an 8v version of the Evo 1 with a cat in Switzerland to meet emissions laws.

What would you do?
 
I know I'm in two minds and doing some serious thinking. It's going to take about another £4k to plus a hell of a lot of work to finish.

I'm alright with a welder but I have the blue GT to fiddle with, I'd be buying a virtually mint standard 'grale with the aim of keeping it that way, maybe with a few minor engine mods. I think I'm losing interest because the blue one is fulfilling my need to fettle for the moment.

16v but they did release an 8v version of the Evo 1 with a cat in Switzerland to meet emissions laws.

What would you do?

you have the reaper in a lockup at the moment dont you???
if so me personally i would leave it there and forget about it till the warmer weather comes (we all loose interest!) just keep messing with the blue 1 till you start thinking this needs to loose some weight then the reaper project will be reborn maybe?? if not thats probably the time to get rid

and the plans sound good for the delta i saw this 1 a few months back he bought it for 5k and spent 10k ish getting it to a near factory finish, with just minor engine mods
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Misses seems to think I should get rid and go 'grale. I have a lock-up where the 'grale will live but the Reaper is on the drive atm. I just don't know, maybe I'll have an epiphany between now and summer, but I think you're right my enthusiasm might well come back in the spring and summer months.

See it just looks awesome, the more I see, the more I want. Is it an Evo? £5k is dirt dirt cheap, must've been a right nail! :lol:
 
Misses seems to think I should get rid and go 'grale. I have a lock-up where the 'grale will live but the Reaper is on the drive atm. I just don't know, maybe I'll have an epiphany between now and summer, but I think you're right my enthusiasm might well come back in the spring and summer months.

See it just looks awesome, the more I see, the more I want. Is it an Evo? £5k is dirt dirt cheap, must've been a right nail! :lol:

if their is no family members moaning about it being on the drive. then keep it there till spring/summer. and if you still do feel like you cant be arsed with it then this maybe the time to get rid. but it is guaranteed if you do get rid you will regret it (the man hrs spent reducing weight on a good shell)
but this is the catch 22 situation what to do, what to do

i only talked to the chap once and iirc it was an evo II and he had restored it from a swiss cheese styled delta:amuse:
 
In talks over my Arrow Rod-ed and CPS Piston-ed 1600 block. If the lad pays me what I'm asking for it that's it it's game over :sad2::blink1::amazed::D:blink:

Seriously mixed emotions.
 

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