Project Ares: Daily hot street '95 BMW 540i

Heya folks, while I'm taking a break during a poor weather streak and awaiting for more parts to arrive. Here's a bit of progress on my daily driver E34.

Found on craigslist, I wasn't necessarily looking for a BMW. But I did want a V8 & manual trans.. anything. Found this E34 540i that would crank but not fire. I checked it out, deemed it a neat little car, made a deal and towed it home. It was also riddled with fake ///M badges everywhere I promptly pulled all of those. But kept the M5 door sills, I kinda like those.



After going round and round for a month, I finally found that the harmonic damper was installed clocked wrong. Assumingly done when a water pump was changed out. The crank trigger uses the damper for timing, so the cars computer was trying to fire off into no mans land. Re-clocked the damper and it fired right up.... yet had valve train noise, exhaust leaks, oil leaks, coolant leaks. I had my work cut out for me.



Spent another couple of months sorting things out while commuting it. The more it drove the better it seemed to be running. I have a feeling the car sat for quite a while.

Since I am a tinkerer and I can't leave anything alone for long, especially a quick little street machine. I started modding, with no other intention then to make my little commuter slightly cooler. Admittedly, some projects were tackled to see if I could do it and how it would turn out.









For the computer system and tuning I am using the Bosch Motronic 3.3.1 with an Ostrich 2.0 chip emulator flashed with my own tuning using TunerProRT. There is also a MAFT-Pro piggyback that I am slowly dialing in to run the car in a "Speed Density" type set up and will do away with the MAF sensor. The MAFT-Pro does also make fueling adjustments based on wideband O2 feedback, provided by an Innovate MTX-l in the cabin.



Drove for it just over a year, making it a little quicker one project at a time. Then the time finally came to address the clutch which had been grabbing at the end of the pedal travel ever since I got the car running.

I opt'd to pull the drive drain. Address a few more issues, add a few more bolt on parts and change things up just a bit...hopefully for a benefit.



Dialed in cam timing, advancing intake cams 4 degrees and retarding exhaust cams 3 degrees. Added some stainless shorty headers.



Wrapped headers in DEI titanium heat wrap, discarded the heavy OE dual mass flywheel for a lightweight aluminum piece



Kevlar full face clutch disc & stage II pressure plate with slightly more stout clamping force. Plus a recommended trans oil blend to help keep gear lash clattering to a minimum.







Removing un-used, unwanted, & broke accessories in the engine compartment. No more traction control actuator, no more cruise control module, no more ABS module. Removed dead A/C components. Replacing a leaking steering gearbox and even converting to manual steering.



Replacing wore out steering linkage and control arms. Lowering the front coils, cleaning up, degreasing, removing or cleaning up wiring & painting engine compartment.



That's where I'm currently at with the project. Weather permitting I'll get the brake lines flared and made to meet the master cylinder. Hopefully the steering gear arrives in the next couple of days so I can get it in and the drivetrain back into it's home.

I've also been collecting exhaust parts for the new system. I had been running a dual 2.5" with magnaflow glasspacks as resonators into a dual in dual out flowmaster 10 dumped before the differential. This time I'm going for a single 3" system, Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator and a Flowmaster Super 40 with a tail pipe all the way out the back.



I'll be back to update as progress is made. Cheers-Mykk
 
Finished the brake lines for the ABS module bypass a, with a manual brake bias valve.

The replacement steering gearbox arrived too, the last piece I was waiting for before installing the drivetrain. With my manual steering conversion. The gearbox is from a 525i and is a slightly different design. We'll see if it'll clear everything on my v8.


I've got more weather coming in this weekend so I'll try to get the engine & trans sitting in the body asap and then move it into the garage to finish up the little projects.

**You need to have made 10 posts before the system will allow you to post photos buddy.**

T9 man
Super moderator.
 
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the V8 looks like an LS. now togethere with the trans dunno if will be fitted in the same plase as standard BMW trans. do you need any major changes on the engine bay? is the V8 stock or will there be added turbo or supercharger? a little critics bro, don't get me wrong but don't like the front covered lights on a BMW. good luck and wait to see more. if you mind 10 posts, just do 10 posts by posting only a singlea word on each of them :D
 
Do posts in my own thread count towards my 10 posts? I'm working on it.

That is the original BMW v8 & manual trans the car came with. It is stock outside of bolt on's and cam timing. I have never played in forced induction before, but I'm thinking about it. Just never had the kind of change in my pocket to cover initial costs of forced induction all at once. The engine has 10:1 compression, If I did boost it I would end up going back in to the cam timing and retard the intake for lower dynamic compression and advance the exhaust to reduce valve overlap...even then couldn't throw much boost at it.

But the piggyback fuel controller I'm using was really meant for boosted applications....hmm
 
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Not static compression, no. Just dynamic compression that takes the intake valve closing degree into account.
 
I towed the project to the shop to wrap it up and bolt it back together.



Since the aftermarket headers didn't fit the body I wanted to take one more stab in the dark with an idea and see how well a set of S65 exhaust manifolds from a 2014 M3. They fit the engine surprisingly well and would only need modification of the port flange clocking or use of simple adapter plates to actually bolt down and seal up against the heads.





Yet, again they wouldn't even come close to sitting in the E34 body so finally giving up in order to move on and get the car back on the road I installed the OE exhaust manifolds, after wrapping them in the DEI titanium header wrap. The S65 manifolds will hang on the wall waiting for another go on an unknown project, swap, build.

 
did you change anything on the engine bay? I am interested in seeing how did you manage to change the engine handlers, or did they match? car is doing great and looking awesome. what is the weight difference between the factory engine and this one?
 
I'm afraid I don't quite understand your questions. Engine handlers?

This is the engine the car came with from the factory.
 
The motor mounts are aftermarket for the original application. They are RevShift poly 95a mounts. Same as trans mounts too. They do transfer a significant amount of vibration to the body but are getting better the longer they are in there.
 
Thanks everyone, I've just been lightly tinkering as of late. Focusing on the tuning. I've got it running pretty strong. Could always have more. As an experiment I've decided to see how the engine responded to a way oversized throttlebody, a universal 90mm piece I've had in my toolbox for a while.

Made an adapter plate to bolt the TB down to the intake manifold.







The biggest obstacle has been using and tuning the Bosch Motronic system. I will never do one of these again.



I was thinking one morning, what if I converted the TPS sensor over to a 1 bar MAP sensor so the Motronic fuel injection would use manifold vacuum for the load calculations instead of throttle angle.



After some wiring and some tuning in the affected load cells. It's actually been one of the best mods I've done to this car. It's far more responsive, it idles easier. It cruises smoother and has more pull and throttle response.

With the in-car tune driving better I want to focus more on the Maft-Pro tuning and finish the Wideband feedback Speed Density conversion and get that MAF sensor out of there.



 
Very nice buddy, in the fifth photo down in this latest post I spotted a split in the hose, did you know?
Thanks for noticing, that's just the rubber sleeve over all of the electrical coming from the computer box to the engine. Appreciate the attention to detail
 
Thanks for the update, I'm always interested in your project. What's next?

Once the tuning is sorted out I'm planning to just drive the wheels off of it, I do have a feeling I'm going to replace that clutch disc soon. The Kevlar disc is making life interesting while driving on the street. Sometimes it takes an interesting dance between the clutch pedal, gas pedal and parking brake in order to reverse out of a parking spot in my downtown. It also audible chatters with any kind of slipping while accelerating from a stop.
 
After spending a day playing with the MAFT-pro. Cycling all of the pre-programmed MAF curves, playing with the internal VE map and creating a custom MAF curve in an attempt to match the E34 540i MAF I just couldn't get it to run. I could get it to idle but not accelerate, or I could get it to accelerate and run under throttle but not idle.

As an experiment I've currently got the MAFTpro wired to datalog the real MAF output voltages as it is running on the car. With the actual MAF output voltage logged in a histogram of MAP KPA vs RPM I can then make then in turn program the emulator to mimic those voltage outputs at the specific MAP/RPM cell points.

My in garage testing of actual MAF voltage being collected on the Histogram....The graph says TPS because that's the input to the MAFT I used for tracing of the MAF. This is just a quick idle and no load revs by hand. The real data will come from on the road under a load driving



As you can see the MAP KPA Y-axis is set up for a 3bar map being able to log up to 320kpa. Since my car is naturally aspirated and won't go above 100kpa I'm going to try to change the Y-axis for 0-100kpa and open up more load cells for better precision.

Today; after transferring the programs, def files and log data over to my tablet I plan to go for a long spirited drive to grab as much MAF data and hit as many cells as possible. Doing this is using the MAF emulator in a way it's not intended, but if it works I'll be pretty happy.
 
MAF datalogging and tuning is majorly wrapped up, with just a few minor tweaks to dial things in.









With the MAF out of the way I'm focusing back on the tuning in the vehicle. It has been a steep learning curve. I'm extremely thankful for online resources and people whom have already figured this stuff out willing to share information.

In the past I've been dependent on software to find maps in the tuning code and then through trial and error trying to take a best guess estimate as to what that MAP does.

Now, although still very much a noob I've learned how to identify the MAPs with my own eyes by reading the Hex-Code. Doing it this way also allows me to see first hand what commands the Y & X axis movement...may it be Coolant temp vs RPM, IAT vs Load, TPS vs RPM...etc. I've also seen how wrong the automated MAP finding software was.



I've still got a loooong way to go, but I'm getting closer to seeing a clearer bigger picture of the Bosch Motronic fuel injection in my BMW.....

My next project will be carbureted.
 
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There are quite a few people reading this thread looking at the stats but we've not had any updates from you in a while any updates on this project - or have you moved on to another one?

What are your plans for the future?
 
The project car got a new set of shoes. Using E39 style 37 replicas, hub spacers and adapters. Some DIY wheel paint and center caps borrowed from a Mustang. I'm pretty happy with the end result. It also has a meaty tire in the back the car was designed for.











 
Looks stunning, thanks for the update my friend. It's good to hear from you. Please keep us posted with new updates.
 
That universal 90mm throttlebody just looked and felt cheap, 'cause it was. I decided to replace it with a not so obviously cheap looking piece. I am also experimenting with different TB sizes. 90mm, 85mm, 70mm.

According to a TB size calc, a V8 with 3.5" bore, 3.15" stroke and a redline of 7200rpm it should utilize a 71mm throttlebody. Considerably smaller then OE. But I figured it would would be worth a try, especially since I'm not using any intake duct work. ( So far, the huge by ginormous 90mm has felt the best on the street)



Otherwise, I'm still spending the majority of my time on the computer system code. Still learning all I can. Reading OE chips from different applications that used the same engine as well as ordering performance chips and reading them to see how, what and why they changed what they did. For my own education and to apply to my build.

 
Putting a more traditional front end on the car, with the hood back on.



I've decided to mount a hood scoop from an early 80's era mustang. I'm happy with the outcome. Once I'm done cutting up and drilling, the hood will go to get cleaned up and resprayed in a black base and flat cleat to match my trunk lid.



 
Very nice car!!! I'm new to the forum and have really enjoyed reading from beginning to this latest part of your build. I give you lots of credit for tackling the programming parts on your own
 
In order to mount the freshly painted hood I would need to reinstall the radiator support. I figured with the cooling system drained and the radiator out of the way I'd get into the engine and play with cam timing again. This time using the special tools necessary to lock the cams in place and spec them to factory lobe separation.







I played with the cam timing in the advanced engine sim program "Engine Analyzer Pro" and after crunching numbers I decided to set the cams the opposite direction from where I had them...this time going -6 degrees retard.

(Dark Blue and Green, OE cam timing. Light Blue and Red, -6 degrees)





Just got the top end back together and took it for a test drive:



Initial impression of the -6 degree cam timing: As to be expected, low RPM torque has dropped a little. The engine revs much easier. The Idle has smoothed over, according to my in car vacuum gauge it idles around 18" vacuum ( I suspect misreading and will test with hand held gauge later). The exhaust note has tamed down a bit, it has more of a Euro scream to it rather then the beefy growl. It also seems a few dB quieter.

At one point during the test drive, when I broke the tires loose the engine was almost instantly up towards redline RPM. I'll spend some more time getting the tuning dialed in for this set up, I also want to try my other intake manifold to see what feels better.
 
Amazing project man. I would love to run one myself in the future. Right now, wife is stalking me to get a brand new (Advertising removed) car, just because her friends said that this is a good deal, but I'm much more into classics if I am to be honest.
 

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