First ICE install, newb


Torque Junkie
mk II Punto 1.9
First ICE install, got a punto 2 seater, so there is a load of room to play with in the back heres what i would like to do.
1. carpet the boot for better insulation and looks,
2. Sub and 2 speakers
3. 2 speakers in the front
4. A mini ITX pc with 7 inch touch screen

I'm very technically minded, studyign computers etc so i doubt it would be a problem me doing this my self but i just need guidance. id like a fusion sub simply because i want the lime green accent colour to go with the black car, dont want blue everyone seems to have it lol. I dont understand the whole resistors capicitors and amps and watts! lol alos, how would i wire a pc t o the car ?


And just quikly i havnt chosen a stereo yet, but dont wanna go over a 100 quid when im having a pc in my car as the main toy
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cheers mate, figured it all out but still not suroe nthe whole power supply ? do i gotta make my own
if your on about the power supply for the car then tghis is what your needing

M2 ATX this is good for around 160W . its not the best but bigger power ones require a regulated 12v input source.
the M2 (theres also M3 and M4 ) takes the unregulated 12v from the car (battery/alternator voltage can varies from 11 - 15v, a fully charged battery is 14.4v) and regulates it to 12v, 5v, 3.3v and -12v.

you do need to look closly at the specs of your motherboard, hard drive screen etc. as the power supply although it says 160w its the max it can produce using all rails.
i originally wanted to use the M3 atx as its alot smaller however the motherboard that i use pulls highly on the 5v rail this would have fried the powersupply and possibly the motherboard itself.
give me a shout if you want a cut down version on win XP -use nLite
and give me a shout ill try and dig out my settings that remove alot of the crud thats not needed. language packs, keyboard packs, printer support, messanger, outlook express, internet explorer.
why not hook it up to the stero.
run a front end like road runner and connect the PC to the aux input to the stero.
saves you haveing to flip cds
from key on to music - on hibernate - im about 12 seconds. cd player used to take around 6-7 seconds to load up.

currently have around 20gb muisic and only reason more hasnt been added as im going to be swapping out to a 2.5" laptop drive so its more stable

standard screen for my front end is

music - all music stored cover album search
Video - all videos stored on HD
Weather - hooks up to the net uses GPS to get real time weather - currently dont have internet access in the car
DVD - again dont have a DVD player connected as run everything of memory stick


GPS - runs using mapoint (used to be autoroute) 2009
Vagcom - for diagnositc
Copy media - copy media from usb to - music / videos / pic
???? - cant remember

internet can be done using USB modems from the likes of vodafone , 3, t mobile etc. you need to do a little programming in visual basic to start the logon program then open IE Firefox whatever.

thats not a bad price when i was looking a 800mhz wth 512mb ram and 80gb hardisc was around £300 i built my whole system for around that including the touchscreen
what on earth was illoioks lol? the only reason i was going to avoid hooking the stereo to the pc was to avoid hassle, but if its simple then hell il do it!. ok so you mite get annoyed by this...
but i need a dummy guide for this power supply thing lol i dont have a clue how to wire it/set it up :/ cheers guys.
what illoioks ? sorry cant be bothered looking back through posts.
as long as you have the aux input its easy. you can go through the hard way of using the 5.1 sound that the atom boards use but you need 3 amps for front back and sub that was too much wor for me so just used the AUX input and let it do all the processing.

not annoyed mate really its easy.

using the m2 atx here but the M1- M4 are pretty much the same other than size and max amps on the rails.

you will have 3 inputs
1 - pernament live
1 - ignition live
1 - ground.

pretty much if youve already got an amp your sorted as you can use the remote lie as the ignition as long as it switches quickly. mines took an extra 5 seconds.

thats the input side

on the output side youve got the
20 pin atx connector for the motherboard
4 pin P4 connector for the 24pin motherboards.
2 micro pin for connecting the power button from the case
2 micro pin for connecting the power button to the motherboard

and 8 multi pins for changing of timer settings.

basically on the default settings.
you switch on the ignition - after 5 seconds the M2 pulses the micro switch for connecting to the motherboard . this switchs the motherboard on
well you switch the ignition off - after 10 seconds it pulses the micro switch again which turns the motherboard off and initaties the shutdown. this can be changed to hibernate in the power settings in windows
aww cheers man, i get it now, thats pretty easy :), ok so now onto amps and head units what do i buy lol?

Iv had the idea for my set up of how its gonna look.

imagine the boot, a piece of fiberglass at about 70 degree angle with 2 subs init, the the amps on the floor in the middle-


two pieces of fiberglass in a v shape (from lookin into the boot you would see a V) with the subs facing eachother, then the pc underneath the slope of the fiberglass and then board the fiberglass over

i wanan go for 1500-200 watts, thats what my mates are runnogn but they have jus got huge subs and sat them anywhere in there boot, i want this to look and sound propper

on audio equipment i wanna spend all in all around 350 if its possible
dont put the PC under the subs, the vibration will kill it in no time unless youve going with a SSD over a conventional hard disc have a look here 250gb for just £540.

the cases can be small enough to fit under the seats, in a glovebox etc.
Head unit wise im using my old alpine unit. simple got a vauxhall to ISO connector ( this is a 6" extension lead as vauxhall used a ISO cable anyway ) cut it in half and used solder and heatshrink to extend it to just over 6ft. moved the HU to the boot so its beside the PC case ( i used a server case as got it for next to nothing )

Make sure you buy a decent HU, unless your going to run from the on board sound on the PC. to be honest £350 isnt going to get you alot nowhere near the 1500w your after - is that peak or RMS?. decent subs your looking at least £200 each, amps probably the same again, powercap your looking at least 1.5 farad is its 1500w RMS.

to give you an idea heres what i spend on audio in my civic
2 12" sony subs £150 each - 350w RMS 1200W peak
1 alpine class D amp - £200 - this powered both subs.
1 vibe black box amp - £99 - powered the 6x9
2 sets of 6x9s (forgot what they were) - £49 a pair ( were on half price at the time hense 2 sets)
alpine head unit - £250 - was supposed to be £317 but got money off as mate worked there and it was the display unit
kinda scary when you add it up but that was over a good few years

also didnt include the power cap or building materials.

if your going to build the enclosure yourself make the frame out of 1" square and strech fleece over it staple then soak ( really soak it ) in fiberglass resin before strengthening with chop strand mat at least 5 layers.
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