Engine Oil Temperature

[Freddie]

I understand that putting strain on a cold engine can be really reduce the life-sapn of your lump, or is this an old-wifes tail? Do modern synthetic oils reduce the chance of damage occuring in cold engines?

The problem I face is.. I don't have an oil temp gauge on my car, as it was only fitted as standard in Saxo VTS'. Is there any way I can tell when my engine is warm enough for a bit of a thrashing?

I've thought about going by the warmth coming through the air heaters, or the water temp gauge, but don't really know if this a bad way of doing it? Is there any other way of telling?

Is it possible/difficult to fit an aftermarket oil temp sensor?

 

[faze_932]

I was thinking aloud to myself, put on the blowers! thats your best bet, your water gauge is just as good! never rev the dogs off it until water temp is over your min water temp line, rember your pistons will be expanding to the profile set for normal driving conditions (ie warm engine) possibly when you rev the "dogs" off it when cold, you could get fuel/oil fireing up the side up the piston heads and blowing between the piston head and engine wall, causing cracks and slight dents which will put the piston head off course at worse or shave the head unevenly, i could ofcouse be talking out my arse but thats how i see it.

 

[Sid447]

80% of engine wear,

Takes place within the first two minutes of engine start. Allowing an engine to get to operating temp as gently as possible keeps this to a minimum.

Some factory tunes won't allow engines to be revved above 4,000 out of gear which is a good idea. Also driving keeping the revs restricted to a similar value until the thermostat opens (usually around 90c) and the engine is at normal operating temp is showing good mechanical sympathy.

Oil temps usually stay within ECT temp (Engine Coolant Temp) plus or minus 15c.

(I'll agree with the last fifteen words of the previous post).

 

[HDi fun]

Short journeys also exacerbate wear problems as you're turning off the car with the internals full of damp, acidic corrosive gas.

 

[Sid447]

^^^^^Agree,

Once pulled a 2.5 litre engine apart that had less then 30,000miles (~28,xxx in six years) on it. All short journeys in London since new (one owner car with known history).
It had wear at the top of each cylinder that you could feel with your finger nail. Which necessitated a re-hone to first over-size (0.125mm). Also the back of all the intake valves were coked-up.
Yet, another identical car which had seen highway use from new for the first 4 years (56,222miles) and then was used on 30 mile runs (on country roads) to and from work not only showed no detectable wear but when checked and dyno'd @ 83,xxx miles had compressions all within 2% of factory new spec and was up on factory rated hp (+4) and torque (+12) and revved much more freely.

 

[7ONY]

Short journeys also exacerbate wear problems as you're turning off the car with the internals full of damp, acidic corrosive gas.

^^^^^^ Correct