At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2

[old-git]

Chassis drilled to accommodate air and brake pipes:



Air pipe connected to solenoid:

 

[old-git]

Whilst gearbox is out, I took the opportunity to tidy up the aluminium gearbox mount. A light rub down and a coat of chassis black:

 

[Teenager2413]

i read this entire thread tonight (night shifts suck at a hmp) but cor blimery OG you have sooem amazing work here would love to see this at some point make the work my dad and i are doing at them moment look pathetic , we are building a lotus super 7 from scratch but your is incredable

 

[old-git]

Thanks, it has been a long haul with many design changes along the way.

Building a kit car from stratch is no mean feat. Which version are you building? Using a preformed chassis or really starting from scratch?

 

[Teenager2413]

Thanks, it has been a long haul with many design changes along the way.

Building a kit car from stratch is no mean feat. Which version are you building? Using a preformed chassis or really starting from scratch?

hello OG are starting from complete scratch making the chasis by hand the chasis is complete with ether side with in 3 mm of each juts at them moment me and my dad are working alot and funds are abit tight as the enginge need a rebore etc lol

the version were building i think is a locust 7 my dad had some orignal plans from donkey years ago we used a sierra running gear but we sourced a 2l pinto for it as the car i got we relised had a pathetic 1.8 pinto in it

 

[old-git]

Good lad. Building own chassis is far more satisfying, but also a lot more work!

My Robin Hood has a 2l Pinto lump and goes pretty well.

Start a build thread so we can watch progress and help where we can.

 

[Teenager2413]

okay i will it has been slow lately as i said but we have kept detailed photos from the of for the sva test because we have kept the orignal car parts were hopeing to get the right reg not a q plate
what carbs are you using on you robin hood engine ?

 

[old-git]

Had a fun afternoon fitting fuel pipes through chassis

 

[Teo]

Thanks, it has been a long haul with many design changes along the way.

Building a kit car from stratch is no mean feat. Which version are you building? Using a preformed chassis or really starting from scratch?

If our passion was not a MAJOR factor in our obsession? Then these rides could cause a SANE man to go over the edge very easily! Hey Old-Git, Job Well Done!!!!!!

 

[old-git]

Thanks

 

[old-git]

Spent 2 hours this afternoon going 1 step back and 1 step forward.

Discovered that the rear wheel will foul my recently fabricated brake pipes! Twit!

Repositioned bracket and shortened both copper and flexible pipes.

 

[old-git]

A classic example of how taking the easy route often ends up the hardest route.

I was routing the fuel pipes through the chassis and had to get them past the hole where the prop passes through to the diff. The flange was difficult to get to to drill so I decided to run the pipes through the opening. This seemed to work:



Next job was to clamp the pipes to the chassis. I was going to make the pipe clamps out of scrap aluminium but, at under £4 each, I decided it wasn't worth the time and effort. These arrived today so I set about clamping the pipe. This is the fuel return pipe:



The prop was making fitting the clamps awkward so I tried to remove it only to discover that the fuel pipes prevented the prop flange passing though the access hole!

So I am now in the process of drilling the awkward holes (drill and file as my 90 degree drill adaptor only takes up to 10mm drill bits and I need 13mm holes). Finished one side and will complete the other tomorrow. In the above photo there is a brake pipe clip under the fuel pipe which I will re-site tomorrow.

 

[T9 man]

Have you not got a cone cutter Steve? They usually have a 10 mm diameter shaft but go up in size stages. This way you could still use the right angled drill adapter. They do step versions too so once you have drilled the right size hole, it is harder to make the hole bigger by accident unless you apply pressure.

 

[old-git]

Yes, but they (or at least the ones I have) only work on thin material. I was pressing as hard as I could and not making any real impression.

 

[T9 man]

Hall make some different ones for heavy gauge metal as well as stainless steel by all accounts. I'll ask my wholesaler for a couple of part numbers for you. In the meantime, step up to three shredded wheat

 

[old-git]

Thanks Os, but I have cracked it!

Remembered that I used hole punches on the chassis and that I had smaller ones. Dug these out and they worked, although it was trickly aligning them as the pilot hole was too big.



http:
//i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm94/elanses3/fuelpipes1611145_zpsf778bca8.jpg

Pipes clamped to chassis:



Pipes through chassis ;





Flow and return pipes with bulkhead fittings losely in place;

 

[T9 man]

 

[old-git]

Started to assemble nearside rear suspension today. The carbon fibre push rods will be painted silver so any stresses will be quickly visible. Besides, I don't want any carbon fibre to be visible



Also started looking at how to fit the roll cage. This plate sits under the the chassis top flange but needs a little fettling to fit. This fettling will, of course, include a little lightening

 

[old-git]

Looked at the rear suspension geometry today and it looked wrong. Rod ends were not square with uprights and the nearside damper pushrod was further away from the top wishbone than the offside one. Something was not right. Checked the bottom wishbones and they were not sitting parallel to the chassis. A long bar was employed and this was rectified and made things a little better but it still didn't look right.

Checked the alignment of the vertical links in relation to each other and found that the nearside one approx 4mm further to the rear. More applications of the adjusting bar allowed me to get the alignment to within 0.5mm - close enough.

Everything now looks right, with all bolts being able to be wound in by hand which idicates that bolts and threads are in alignment. An unforseen consequence of these adjustments is the increase in clearance between push rods and wishbones, allowing a smaller spacer to be fitted at the wheel end giving more clearance between rod end bolt and wheel.

This took me most of the day, but worth it.

 

[old-git]

Started on roll cage installation today. Modified mounting plate to fit modifed chassis and the restricted access. Welded captive nuts to it in order to make installation easier. Lightened it, of course:

 

[old-git]

Had quite a productive couple of days. First fit of roll cage with modifed support bracket(s).



Fitted nearside outer driveshaft. caliper and brake lines.






Marking bolts when tightened for the last time has paid off. Just about to fit the outer driveshaft when I noticed that the nuts holding the bearing carrier to the vertical link had no orange markings on them. Checked and they were not tight!

Having machining toys keeps paying off. Fitted the caliper and noticed that the disc wasn't centralised in the caliper, similar problem as I had on the offside. However, taking a mm off the bracket wasn't enough so I milled a couple more from the caliper lugs.

 

[old-git]

Mocked up tyre size to check for clearance. There appear to be no insurmountable issues:




Parts ready for driveshaft assembly. First to quess correctly what the silver lines on the driveshafts are for gets a free 'like'

 

[stamford]

A datum marker to check for tortional twist when in use?

 

[old-git]

I had an idea that it might be you

Once the line is half way round it is time to replace the shaft.

 

[stamford]

I'm surprised no-one else pitched in.

 

[old-git]

Anothor small problem. The combination of standard circlips, bespoke driveshafts and high spec CV joints has resulted in the CV retaining circlips being too thick to fit in the amount of circlip grove protruding from the CV

I have some thinner clips somewhere and will look again tomorrow. However, as a backup I have ordered thinner ones (1.1mm compared to the 2mm standard items) in cae I can't find them.

 

[stamford]

It's always the little details!

 

[old-git]

Absolutely. I was tempted to skim the clips on the mill but finding thinner ones on the web means I can spend that time doing something else until they arrive or I find the ones I already have, somewhere.

 

[old-git]

Had to postpone the wiring that was booked for 1 Dec with DC Electronics, the car will not be ready. No dramas, they said to keep them abreast of progress and we will re-book at a later date.

 

[old-git]

Fitted speedo sensor. Aluminium bolts lightened (of course):







Also removed obsolete rear damper mounts, saving another 1/2 Kg

 

[old-git]

Working Friday and Saturday so nothing done on car.

Today, managed to bolt in and torque up propshaft.

Also did a little fettling to the rear damper central bracket so that the dampers were in a better alignment and not rubbing the bracket on maximum droop. You may notice that I am now starting to use titanium nuts as well as bolts. They are a rather expensive extravagance but I thought, what the hell, in for a penny in for hundreds of pounds

 

[old-git]

Presently waiting the arrival of thin circlips so I can complete the assembly of the rear drivesahfts, so I thought I would go off an a slight tangent and play with the wheelie bar design.

Drilled holes in chassis to accommodate the 1/2" bolt bought from the States. Made spacers out of aluminium bar stock from my collection. Using rod ends from my stock is helping to keeps costs down

Although I have boxes of nuts I couldn't find any 1/2" UNC. Fortunately I was going over to SE London yesterday for an Indian Christmas dinner with fellow car nuts and there a nut and bolt shop (Modern Screws) on the way so I picked up a couple.

As soon as carbon fibre tubes arrive I can start on the aluminim inserts that the rod ends will screw into.

 

[old-git]

Update. Circlips have arrived so driveshaft assembly can commence as soon as wife gets home and I am relieved of Mother-in-Law sitting duties.

 

[Yugguy]

Can't you get her to help? Holding the other spanner while you turn the bolt?

 

[T9 man]

That's a point, the dear lady might be itching to get her hands dirty on the car, she might prove to be an asset OG if only you would allow her

 

[old-git]

I doubt that she could lift a spanner, let alone hold it tight

 

[T9 man]

Oh bless her

 

[old-git]

You wouldn't be saying that if you had to look after her 24/7 :-(

 

[T9 man]

Your probably right there Steve, but family is family and we will all get old and need help one day; I take my hat off to you sir!

 

[old-git]

Well, when you come to collect it you can meet her