620Ti battery problem
- Thread starter azzy
- Start date
I'll do some digging for you mate and i'll have a look at the cd tomorrow cause it's at my mums....
Your very welcome buddy.
Mate i've been busy today putting the install back in the Primera. I'll have a look some time tonight buddy...
Right buddy i've been on a few websites and this is what i've found out
Amps depends on the load, not the alternator itself.
So what you need to do is measure voltage over the battery. This should be about 14-15 Volts when running and drops quickly to 12.5 - 13.5 with engine turned off (and no load). Hope this helps buddy...
Amps depends on the load, not the alternator itself.
So what you need to do is measure voltage over the battery. This should be about 14-15 Volts when running and drops quickly to 12.5 - 13.5 with engine turned off (and no load). Hope this helps buddy...
well this man come 2 days ago to test all the batt and alternator and he said the batt is 12.6 car off. the car on it was 13.7 so its ok. but on idle rev the alternator was flickering to 31 amps which he was saying that can drain the batt over night so i guess its true. it should be abt 55 amps to charge the batt
Not nececerily because if the fault isn't the alternator it will be drawing current all the time which would be why the ampage reads so low... The ampage depends on the load at the time so you wouldn't get a constant reading anyway ...
i dont know then mate he told me like it runs 31 amps but should be more like 55 amps so every time am driving the car its draining 3 amps and not charging probley. can that be true wat he said. or that a scam i paid 20 pounds for the test took 1 hour
Mate if the battery reads between 14-15 volts when the engine is running then your alternator is fine. Anything under this then yes maybe it is your alternator...
If your battery reads between 14 and 15 volts when the engine is on tickover then the alternator is fine....
pgarner
TC ModFather
current and voltage are different.
you might be getting 14 v at tick over but your altinator doesnt give full charge until 2000 rpm
you might be getting 14.5 volts at 30amp rather than 14.5v at 55 amps.
you might be getting 14 v at tick over but your altinator doesnt give full charge until 2000 rpm
you might be getting 14.5 volts at 30amp rather than 14.5v at 55 amps.
Thats why you would do a volt test instead of an ampage test isn't it...Well thats what I thought anyways....
pgarner
TC ModFather
no think about a 12v battery that goes in remote fobs they only give around 0.7 a car battery has around 50A
both these give 12v but try starting a car with the fob battery it can give enough current to start it (car can require 600+ Amps)
if the altinator is only giving 31 amps thats only 400w at 13v. now bear in mind that its dark early the now and your lights are going to draw around 200w of this. thats only giving you 15 Amps left to power anything else ( rear windsceen heater, in car heaters, radio, speakers wipers etc) and charge the battery.
both these give 12v but try starting a car with the fob battery it can give enough current to start it (car can require 600+ Amps)
if the altinator is only giving 31 amps thats only 400w at 13v. now bear in mind that its dark early the now and your lights are going to draw around 200w of this. thats only giving you 15 Amps left to power anything else ( rear windsceen heater, in car heaters, radio, speakers wipers etc) and charge the battery.
But I was told you couldn't test for ampage cause it's always changing. Thats why you do a volt test whilst the engine is running? I hate electrics they always seem to be able to confuse me...
pgarner
TC ModFather
you can test the current that the altinator can supply - but not with a normal multimeter as most are only rated to 10 amps.
yeah electrics are confusing. i can work out most things including helping the sparkys at work. but theres alot that still confuse me
yeah electrics are confusing. i can work out most things including helping the sparkys at work. but theres alot that still confuse me
I can get my head round it if someone explains it to me but I normally just figure it out myself...
pgarner
TC ModFather
to me it means that every time you use more than 400w you are draining the battery as the altinator cant supply enough current.
would advise getting a second opion before sourcing another altinator or getting your one rewound
would advise getting a second opion before sourcing another altinator or getting your one rewound
yes ill try new one. ok today i put my turbo gauge and i got a t piece connecter and found on 1 end there is a metel piece inside. where does that go on the gauge. coz i tryed it and my boost is showing me vacum readings on gauge but not psi or do i have to drive the car to check.
It will read vacuum on tickover you need to spool the turbo up for it to reach boost. Go for a drive and wind up the turbo and see if it goes up to boost....
No worries mate. I'm not positive but from what I can gather if you dump your foot to the floor in say 2nd it should boost all the way up to around 12 or something psi then after full boost it should settle down to 8 psi.....
pgarner
TC ModFather
note turbo nutter 2nd gear
alot of car dont boost in 1st to help with traction
you should get a vac on idle, for instance when the engine warmed up i get 19" of mercury, but when i lift off the throttle i get 22".
alot of car dont boost in 1st to help with traction
you should get a vac on idle, for instance when the engine warmed up i get 19" of mercury, but when i lift off the throttle i get 22".
Have you taken the car out for a drive?
Now this 1 i'm unsure on.. When is it lumpy? When it's cold or all the time? When was it last serviced?
When did it start running lumpy? Does is run ok over a certain amount of revs? Does it boost good and also are the gears easy to select?
When was the gearbox oil last changed?
Who did it?
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