How to change brake pads

its pretty straight foward mate,

take off the wheels (1 at a time) and you'll see the caliper
this is held in place with 2 bolts, 1 top 1 bottom
loosen them off, and the caliper should slide off the disc

take out the old pads, now with the new 1s, their chunky, so you need to push back the piston in the caliper, front calipers are easy, you can push them back with a vicegrips, the back 1s are the same, just smaller and a bit tedious, but you will get it eventually

just copy the way the pads come out, put the new 1s in the same way,
pads come with a metal clip on 1 side, make sure that goes on the inside of the caliper

then just assemble it back the way you took it off

you'll need to pump the brake pedal a few times when its all back together, you'll eventually feel as they are normal, maybe after 5 or 6 pumps

if you get stuck on anything, just let me know, hope this helps you mate
 
If you are not a DIY car person then I would steer clear. Brakes are not something a novice should be doing unaided.

For a start you will need:

  • A level and clear surface area to work on.
  • Axle stands.
  • Trolley jack.
  • Wheel brace and a torque wrench.
  • Tools to remove the caliper or part there of.
Each car is different, they do not all follow the same procedure. When removing the old pads the caliper piston will need compressing back into the caliper body to allow the much thicker pad to enter and go over the disc. In doing this the reservoir cap will need removing to allow the fluid to expand and observe.

Discs also need checking for thickness, scoring and excess lip due to wear, some may need a gentle grind to remove this lip if still within tolerance.

The new pads will require a little bit of dressing to ease the bedding in process, also the use of coppaslip on certain parts and surfaces is advised to aid assembly and efficiency, this needs to be done carefully.

I have a technique for bedding in brakes if anyone is interested. Has never failed me in 25 years. ;)
 
Yes!, I'm interested that would be a good thread. :bigsmile:

With ref to 'Copperslip', Dont go mad! you don't need to butter the whole back of the pad! Just where the piston sits. ;)
 
As has already been said, tbh brakes arent that hard all depends how confident you are. Do you trust yourself, i didnt but fitted my own AP's and now would prob do most of the work on my car. But as i am kinda sponsored by a mechanic and get reduced prices i just let him do it.
 
Running in new pads and discs is something that has to be done carefully. The old school way was just to use them gently for the first 200 miles or so. I'm not sure this is ideal with modern pad compounds.
 
Before I place in a set of new pads I carry out the following:
  • Chamfer edge of pad surface by 1mm.
  • Cross cut the pad surface using a hacksaw to create a crosshatch effect, approx 1mm wide by 1mm deep x 10mm apart.
I find this helps bed the pads in quicker and reduce the squeeling often heard when not allowed to bed in.

I replaced mine last weekend and have just hammered it around Brands today and they are spot on.
 
HDi is an accomplished armchair mechanic it is said. If I undertake anything more serious than replacing a wiper blade I tend to find myself afflicted with 'spare bits syndrome'.
 
Even the best of us get that, but if you have put it all back together, all secure and is workiing just count it as a bit of weight saving.
 
Even the best of us get that, but if you have put it all back together, all secure and is workiing just count it as a bit of weight saving.

Good point - see my post elsewhere about simply buying a Renault. With the propensity for bits to fall off over time these things have inbuilt self weight-limiting!
 
Xavier, get yourself a good Haynes manual. Read through and see if you fancy doing it. As long as you are careful and take your time you shouln't have a problem.
 
Good point - see my post elsewhere about simply buying a Renault. With the propensity for bits to fall off over time these things have inbuilt self weight-limiting!

Lol, so does that mean the r26r is just a standard megane with bits fallen off?
 
Before I place in a set of new pads I carry out the following:
  • Chamfer edge of pad surface by 1mm.
  • Cross cut the pad surface using a hacksaw to create a crosshatch effect, approx 1mm wide by 1mm deep x 10mm apart.
I find this helps bed the pads in quicker and reduce the squeeling often heard when not allowed to bed in.

I replaced mine last weekend and have just hammered it around Brands today and they are spot on.
i rub the 2 pads together a couple of times, then when fitted i drive the car with the brakes on, something i wouldnt recomend, the first time i done this i nearly went out the window
my left leg is normally used for clutch only, but using it on the brake, well try it and you'll know what i mean:D
 
had to do that in one of my older cars. for some reason wouldn't idle (yes i adjusted the screws on the carb) told my passengers to buckle up, the wife did, cousins didn't. needless to say, first stop sign we all had headaches.
 

Similar threads


Please watch this on my YouTube channel & Subscribe.


Back
Top