DIY Servicing, how hard is it?

kasaGame

Wrench Pro
Points
56
Location
Dublin
Car
Civic sir eg6
I want to save money for mods by doing my own servicing on my eg6 sir how hard is it? where do i start? and what tools do i need to complete the job?

Any help would be great cheers.
 
its simple,

first the tools,
get a jack, axle stands,17" ring spanner, oil filter and spark plug changer,
the oil filter tool is lie a scciccors, but with a clamp instead of blades, the spark plug changer is like a socket attached to the handle, but has rubber in the inside so it grabs the plug,and a bucket to put the old oil, all these tools can be got either in halfrauds, or your local car factor shop

your dead right to do the service yourself, you'll save about 100 quid each time

the service
first warm your car up to normal running tempeture, this makes the oil watery so it all comes out when draining
first jack up the front of the car in the centre, then place your axle stands on each side
leave the jack where it is, the more saftey things you have, the better

next, use the 17" ring spanner to loosen the sump bolt, (lefty loosy, righty tighty)
the oil will pour out so be ready with the bucket, when its drained, tighten back up the bolt, (the reason i say this is so you wont forget anything, do it in stages)

the oil filter
hondas are hard at changing oil filters, their buried right behind the engine
so you need to get right under the engine,
wrap the tool around the filter and loosen that off, once its loose, the rest can be done by hand, be ready with the bucket again,

putting back on the filter is easy, you'll see where it goes because it has a threaded bolt sticking out of the engine, with the new oil, grease up the new oil fiters rubber ring, then hand tighten it, with a bit of squeeze ( dont use the tool, next service you wont get it off)

plugs are simple ( in the dohc theres a cover across the leads) this is held on by 4 screws, their 10" spanner will do,
thats off and remove the 4 leads, the spark plug tool goes down the tube of each sparkplug cylinders, you'll know when your locked onto 1, then just loosen 1 by 1
replacing the new plugs
dont touch the plug itself with hands, hold it by the nut on them in the centre, put the plug into the tool, and put in the cylinder and tighten, ( dont over squeeze the things tight, once they stop rotating, thats enough)

topping up with oil
find out how many litres it takes ( this is important)
mine takes 5 litres, but i think the civics take 3 and half, but find this out yourself from a honda garage or the owners manual
when the oil is in, put the cover back on, start the car and the oil light should stay on for 5 seconds
when it goes off, switch off the engine, and check the dip stick, should be reading at the max line, if its below it, top it up (very little as it wont be below that much if going of the owners manual) a tiny bit above the line will do

any more questions, just ask me, prevtec
 
just one thing prevec 17" spanner should be 17mm spanner.

on the d series engine i found it easier to climb on the cam cover and reach behind the intake manifold to get to the oil filter. this had 1 major advantage. when the filter came off you didnt get oil on your face.
 
17mm spanner IIRC should also be the same size as the caliper holding bolts this will allow you to change pads as well.

for the discs you will need a philips screwdriver size N03 and a lot of WD40
 
just one thing prevec 17" spanner should be 17mm spanner.

on the d series engine i found it easier to climb on the cam cover and reach behind the intake manifold to get to the oil filter. this had 1 major advantage. when the filter came off you didnt get oil on your face.
17 mm lol 17" spanners are used on battleships my bad
thats a good tip about climing on the cam cover
but with mine and i think all dohc vtecs, theres not enough room to do it that way, but do check it out kasa, there might be room in your one to do so
 
17mm spanner IIRC should also be the same size as the caliper holding bolts this will allow you to change pads as well.

for the discs you will need a philips screwdriver size N03 and a lot of WD40
their a 10" and 14" on hondas brakes pg
 
mines were 17mm spanner which is a 10mm bolt thread
10mm spanner is a 6mm bolt which wouldnt be strong enough to support the brakes.

14mm, honda being awkward most would use 13mm which is an 8mm bolt would this ths would be enough to hold the pins that hold the 2 parts of the caliper togeather
 
mines were 17mm spanner which is a 10mm bolt thread
10mm spanner is a 6mm bolt which wouldnt be strong enough to support the brakes.

14mm, honda being awkward most would use 13mm which is an 8mm bolt would this ths would be enough to hold the pins that hold the 2 parts of the caliper togeather
13 is an unlucky no., but in all the hondas i had it was 14 mm spanner i used(got it right this time lol)
 
Tip, use some old engine oil to rub around the new filter seal and thread. I would advise the use of throwaway rubber gloves when changing the oil as it is not healthy to soak your hands in old engine oil. Some people can suffer from dermatitus through contact.

The drain cans are useful to use, they have a slope built in to collect the oil, once done you can stand these up and then dispose of at your local tip and re-use the container.

Always refit a new sump washer ring, they are pence.
 
its simple,

first the tools,
get a jack, axle stands,17" ring spanner, oil filter and spark plug changer,
the oil filter tool is lie a scciccors, but with a clamp instead of blades, the spark plug changer is like a socket attached to the handle, but has rubber in the inside so it grabs the plug,and a bucket to put the old oil, all these tools can be got either in halfrauds, or your local car factor shop

your dead right to do the service yourself, you'll save about 100 quid each time

the service
first warm your car up to normal running tempeture, this makes the oil watery so it all comes out when draining
first jack up the front of the car in the centre, then place your axle stands on each side
leave the jack where it is, the more saftey things you have, the better

next, use the 17" ring spanner to loosen the sump bolt, (lefty loosy, righty tighty)
the oil will pour out so be ready with the bucket, when its drained, tighten back up the bolt, (the reason i say this is so you wont forget anything, do it in stages)

the oil filter
hondas are hard at changing oil filters, their buried right behind the engine
so you need to get right under the engine,
wrap the tool around the filter and loosen that off, once its loose, the rest can be done by hand, be ready with the bucket again,

putting back on the filter is easy, you'll see where it goes because it has a threaded bolt sticking out of the engine, with the new oil, grease up the new oil fiters rubber ring, then hand tighten it, with a bit of squeeze ( dont use the tool, next service you wont get it off)

plugs are simple ( in the dohc theres a cover across the leads) this is held on by 4 screws, their 10" spanner will do,
thats off and remove the 4 leads, the spark plug tool goes down the tube of each sparkplug cylinders, you'll know when your locked onto 1, then just loosen 1 by 1
replacing the new plugs
dont touch the plug itself with hands, hold it by the nut on them in the centre, put the plug into the tool, and put in the cylinder and tighten, ( dont over squeeze the things tight, once they stop rotating, thats enough)

topping up with oil
find out how many litres it takes ( this is important)
mine takes 5 litres, but i think the civics take 3 and half, but find this out yourself from a honda garage or the owners manual
when the oil is in, put the cover back on, start the car and the oil light should stay on for 5 seconds
when it goes off, switch off the engine, and check the dip stick, should be reading at the max line, if its below it, top it up (very little as it wont be below that much if going of the owners manual) a tiny bit above the line will do

any more questions, just ask me, prevtec

Cheers prevtec thats a great help,the more money i can save serving it means the more money i can spend doin it up;)

Cheers tho really was great bit of help
 
Tip, use some old engine oil to rub around the new filter seal and thread. I would advise the use of throwaway rubber gloves when changing the oil as it is not healthy to soak your hands in old engine oil. Some people can suffer from dermatitus through contact.

The drain cans are useful to use, they have a slope built in to collect the oil, once done you can stand these up and then dispose of at your local tip and re-use the container.

Always refit a new sump washer ring, they are pence.
used engine oil is very hazzardess both to you and the envoirment
use new oil to lubricate the new oil filter, im sure i mentioned that

i have 1 of those containers mate, their the right job
 
Best bet would be to get an adjustable spanner :) However, as we are talking about servicing a foreign car, make sure it's a metric one.
thats true, a spanner set with normal and metric would cost about 20 quid, you'll be able to do most things on a car with that
 
remember after you have refilled your engine with oil to start the car wait until the oil light goes of and turn the engine back off, then leave it a minuite and recheck your dipstick, then top up again neccasary.

would also be a good idea to check the strength of your coolant, (espcially this time of year) using a suitable tester. you can pick these up for about 4 quid from any motor factors or from the the internet and it will tell you what temperture your coolant is effective too.

also check in you service history when your brake fluid was last changed as this should be done every 2 years, (because the fluid is hydroscopic).

top up all your other levels, (screenwash ect.), make sure your tryes are well above 1.6mm with a tread depth indicator,( about 3 quid from halfords), go down to your local fuel staion and check your air pressures in your tyres.
take the wheels off and have a look at the condtion of your brakes and check the shocks are not leaking, also check the cv boot is not split.

hope this helps....
 
Last edited:
remember after you have refilled your engine with oil to start the car wait until the oil light goes of and turn the engine back off, then leave it a minuite and recheck your dipstick, then top up again neccasary.

would also be a good idea to check the strength of your coolant, (espcially this time of year) using a suitable tester. you can pick these up for about 4 quid from any motor factors or from the the internet and it will tell you what temperture your coolant is effective too.

also check in you service history when your brake fluid was last changed as this should be done every 2 years, (because the fluid is hydroscopic).

top up all your other levels, (screenwash ect.), make sure your tryes are well above 1.6mm with a tread depth indicator,( about 3 quid from halfords), go down to your local fuel staion and check your air pressures in your tyres.
take the wheels off and have a look at the condtion of your brakes and check the shocks are not leaking, also check the cv boot is not split.

hope this helps....

Some good advice there buddy nice 1..:bigsmile:
 

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