Strut Braces

dotdot8692

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Fiat Punto 1.2 SX60
With independent suspension if you add strut braces to you car does the brace act as torsion suspension?
Thanks.
 
What the strut brace does is provide a bridge between the suspension towers of your car. Therefore, when cornering, the forces that would usually push inwards and cause your car to roll slightly meet with resistance from the strut brace which holds the wing in place, not allowing it to flex. The upshot is that the car stays rigid, thus maintaining full control. Coupled with uprated suspension, this gives better control when cornering.
 
I'm thinking about one for the front end of my 406. The diesel engine, which is weighty compared to a petrol unit does lead to a nose havy feel at times. I suspect that a brace will counter some of this.
 
something i read up on, but only found 1 refrence to it, is that on a FWD you really want to brace the rear of the rear of the car up 1st as this helps stop the understeer.
has anybody else heard of this?
 
between the 2 turrets in the boot, if your lucky a fabricator might be able to make something up that follows the lines of the boot ( the 406 is a saloon isnt it?) that way you still have full use of the boot without a bar sticking halfway across it
 
You are much better off with ARBs if they are nmot fitted as standard. And yes, stiffen the front = more understeer, stiffen the rear = more oversteer
 
mmm the s3 strut brace might not go ahad them, might look to uprating the rear ARB at some point and fit the lower front brace to protet the sump a littlle more
 
yeah i was thinking more because you use the whole boot alot. if you can get an thicker ARB it would be easier as it would just replace the existing one
 
yeah i was thinking more because you use the whole boot alot. if you can get an thicker ARB it would be easier as it would just replace the existing one

Do you mean the rear ARB? Would replacing this have a similar effect on 'stiffening' the chassis as would a strut brace at the top of the strut towers?

The front ARB is quite firm, possibly too much so given the mass of the engine block itself, perhaps it's lack of left/right compliance in that which makes it feel a little nose heavy or understeery at times. It doesn't roll mcuh at the front under swift cornering, perhaps a little more roll would plant the weight over the outside tyre sooner.

It's a shame you're not closer by; you could probably drive the thing and very quickly give me an idea of where to consider spending money.
 
You can have 3 strut braces fitted. One at the front and 2 at the rear (upper and lower). I will be going for front and rear lower as the Coupe is rigid enough because of the top of the boot (it's already like having one there).
 
yeah the rear ARB, not sure as the bora tends to understeer slightly when you start pushing it, would hate to see what would happen when its really pushed. cant lower the supension as have bad speedbumps at work that my mudflaps already touch.
cant find much on curing the understeer on the bora but hundreds on the golfs. seems thicker ARBs on the rear and the S3/TT upper and lower brace on the front. thought id start on the front as this would make more difference and cheaper, about £100 for upper and lower braces, all bolts and rivinuts. where as 25mm rear ARB is over £200 on its own. need to
 
It'd probably be easier,

In a lot of cases to fit a larger diameter (assuming there is one already) rear anti-roll bar (sway bar). Which would give much the same effect.
Most modern car bodies are thankfully quite rigid now and don't suffer the flexing that earlier production cars did.
 
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