Oil Brands

[hazzagrant]

Hi
With various oil brands on the market is one really better than the other, atm i have a fiesta st and use castrol magnetec fully synthetic, but is expensive compared to other brands, was just wondering do people go for the brands because they are actually superior or is it just a marketing ploy??

 

[oilman]

Some are much better than others.

Magnatec is a good example of an overpriced oil. It's not a genuine synthetic oil, it's a modified mineral oil, legally sold as a synthetic. A few years ago there was a legal case in the US where two oil companies went to court to dispute the naming of synthetic oils. One company believed that as some oils were so far modified from what they were when they came out of the ground, they should be sold as synthetic. The other company was one that only made genuine lab-made synthetics, so they wanted the modified mineral oils not to be sold as synthetic. Eventually the first company won and now all of the cheaper 'synthetic' oils for sale are actually modified mineral oils. Even a lot of the higher priced synthetic oils have a mineral oil content, but it can be good as it makes the oil more stable.

With Magnatec you are getting the basic level that can be sold as a synthetic, I'd describe it as a semi-synthetic if anyone asked me. Fuchs XTR is a very similar oil, but Fuchs didn't sponsor the World Cup etc, so works out as better value.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-991-fuc...rmance-fuel-economy-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

If you look at the label on the can, Castrol Magnatec is a 5w-30 synthetic oil that does amazing things, and it's only £24 for 4L. It doesn't really make sense that the Redline 5w-30 and Motul 300V 5w-30 are over £40 for 4L, when they don't meet the manufacturer specs and don't tell you how amazing they are on the can. The thing with the Motul and Redline is that they are both a mix of PAO and ester synthetic basestocks that are absolute top end oils. They give far better protection that more basic oils, are more stable at higher temps and last longer.

At the other end of the scale are the real bog standard oils, things that are £10 for 4L. There are always rumours that their oils are made by the big companies like Castrol and Shell, but the truth is, that really doesn't matter. If a big company makes an oil to a low budget, basic spec, that oil won't be very good. It's not just one of the bigger companies good oils with another label stuck on it, they couldn't afford to do that. To make the basic oils, a more basic additive package and basestock is used, meaning it's not as good a lubricant as it could be and it doesn't last as long.

Cheers

Tim

 

[HDi fun]

I'm glad you've mentioned Magnetec. I've be led to believe, for years, that it's a cracked mineral oil, therefore not a true fully synthetic oil.

My Dad used to run Magnetec in his '92 Peugeot 405 GLDT and had a turbo fail completely at 80,000 miles. I wonder if Magnetec contributed to this? He used to tow extensively with the car and it did run some incredible oil temperatures at times.

Castrol's Edge range appears to be comprised of much better quality (and pricier) products.

 

[oilman]

I doubt that the Magnatec was to blame for the turbo to fail, however how long would it have gone on if a true synthetic was used...

Magnatec these days, still being a hydrocracked synthetic is pretty good. I dont really buy into its unique synthetic ester gumpf but the nuts and bolts of it are decent, just like any other comparable oil of its type (all the main manufacturers will make group III hydrocracked synthetic oils, they make up most of the synthetics sold on the market today) just sometimes the Magnatec is over priced compared to its competitors.

Cheers

Guy.

 

[HDi fun]

So if I stick with Edge 5w/30 or a Motul 5w/30 (both of which meet BMW LL-04 spec) then I'll be doing the best I can to maintain my car sensibly.

A decent fully synthetic surely is always superior to a blended or hydro-cracked oil?

 

[oilman]

Yep, spot on.

Cheers

Guy

 

[jarrus]

I used Edge TD for ages (I used to change it every 6k miles) and I've never had a problem with it, I use Fuchs Titan Pro Race S now and have noticed that it uses it a little which it didn't before, (i've noticed a slight blue tinge to the exhaust smoke for a while during warm up but after disipates) but I also don't do anywhere near the miles I used to so this could be a contributing factor but I'm not sure,
Both oils were a 5w/40 on a Peugeot 1.9DT engine.

Your thoughts oilman would be much appreciated....

 

[old-git]

Any thoughts, oilman, on the Miller range?

 

[hazzagrant]

So atm im not using the best oil, wow didn't realise, is it worth stretching to either motul or fuchs titan then?
Defo learnt something from the above post thanks for that

 

[oilman]

I used Edge TD for ages (I used to change it every 6k miles) and I've never had a problem with it, I use Fuchs Titan Pro Race S now and have noticed that it uses it a little which it didn't before, (i've noticed a slight blue tinge to the exhaust smoke for a while during warm up but after disipates) but I also don't do anywhere near the miles I used to so this could be a contributing factor but I'm not sure,
Both oils were a 5w/40 on a Peugeot 1.9DT engine.

Your thoughts oilman would be much appreciated....

Bit odd really, I can't think why the Pro S would smoke and the Edge didn't. What is odd is that the smoke shouldn't have a blue tinge with Pro S as the Pro S is synthetic. Did you change the oil or did a garage/someone else? It also shouldn't really get consumed any faster than Edge as they are the same grade and the Pro S is the more stable of the two oils. Sounds almost like a mineral oil has been used, odd.

Cheers

Tim

 

[oilman]

Any thoughts, oilman, on the Miller range?

Like pretty much all the manufacturers we deal, with they make average, decent and good oils. The things like the XSS are okay semi-synthetics, XFS is a good mid range oil for the money and the CFS oils are as good as anything on the market.

Cheers

Tim

 

[oilman]

So atm im not using the best oil, wow didn't realise, is it worth stretching to either motul or fuchs titan then?
Defo learnt something from the above post thanks for that

Depends what you do with the car and how you want to treat it. If it's tracked or you want to look after it as best possible, go for a good 5w-30 like the Pro S, Motul 300V or Redline. If your budget doesn't stretch to those, the Mobil ESP, Castrol Edge, Shell Helix and Motul Eco-Energy are good options. The Motul Ford Specific, Magnatec, Fuchs XTR and Millers XSS are the more basic options.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-653-5w-30.aspx

Cheers

Tim

 

[jarrus]

I'm glad you've mentioned Magnetec. I've be led to believe, for years, that it's a cracked mineral oil, therefore not a true fully synthetic oil.

My Dad used to run Magnetec in his '92 Peugeot 405 GLDT and had a turbo fail completely at 80,000 miles. I wonder if Magnetec contributed to this? He used to tow extensively with the car and it did run some incredible oil temperatures at times.

Castrol's Edge range appears to be comprised of much better quality (and pricier) products.

Turbos don't really go on the XUD's, did he cool it down properly?

 

[jarrus]

Bit odd really, I can't think why the Pro S would smoke and the Edge didn't. What is odd is that the smoke shouldn't have a blue tinge with Pro S as the Pro S is synthetic. Did you change the oil or did a garage/someone else? It also shouldn't really get consumed any faster than Edge as they are the same grade and the Pro S is the more stable of the two oils. Sounds almost like a mineral oil has been used, odd.

Cheers

Tim

I always change the oil myself, I did mix it with some Edge TD after seeking advise from yourselves on here,

I reckon it's got to be down to the short journeys but I did want to ask a question or 2 just to clear some things up. Could it be down to the fact the I run quite a smokey tune and the oil is contaminated? I've only covered about 1500 miles since my oil change where as before driving from here to telford I would have changed it again by now...

any more thoughts?

 

[oilman]

If it's overfuelling and contaminating the oil, then that could be the problem.

 

[HDi fun]

Turbos don't really go on the XUD's, did he cool it down properly?

I doubt it. I used to wince when used my 406 and shut it down with a nice boot of throttle.

 

[jarrus]

If it's overfuelling and contaminating the oil, then that could be the problem.

Would you say that the EDGE TD has a higher additive pack than the Pro S stuff?

Soon I will be expirimenting with MBC's on the boost compensator, it means then the extra fuel will only come on full boost and should clear up the smoke a bit,

XUD are known for diluting there oil quite quickly, probably why they like to though rods,

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

Tim I was speaking to an oil coy chemist and he said that the cheaper oils only have just enough additive package to meet the specs and that they don't stay in spec for long and the better brands have more and stay in spec far longer.

 

[oilman]

Yes, that is often the case

 

[rodhotter]

castrol-BP were the Bums that screwed up the synthetic classification in 1999 in the USA. we now have Pennzoil GTL tech oil, the specs they give look good but they lack some important ones. its $5 a qt purchased in 5 qt containers here. i use Amsoil's top line oils or Redline, never any issues. my traded 2001 jetta-bora 1.8T with 300 ftlb TQ still had 20" of vacuum at trade in 200,000 smiles!!

 

[viggen]

I use Shell Rotella T-6 full synthetic I have a friend that is a petroleum engineer that says it's the best oil in the world and cheap! only 19 $ (US) a gallon at Walmart!

 

[oilman]

I've heard similar things about Rotella before. I've not seen any evidence to back it up though and it always seems to come from someone else, never direct from an oil chemist.

Cheers

Tim

 

[viggen]

no, i don't just talk out of my behind I am a published author ! the source is an article in the US Saab club magazine from about ? 2010 ? (my subsequent research included public record, -Shell co. website ( quite interesting actually ) the original quote was from the source to the magazine's author of the article so it is not" hearsay " but a primary source, now, of course, this is one petroleum engineers opinion.( we imagine it would not be hard to find some more to agree !) there are standards of credulity, rules about being honest in print media and fact checkers and editors that help ensure the accuracy, of course, these are sadly absent on the I' net and social media! Anyone can write whatever they like w/ at times, little or no relation to reality! now from reading articles about oil analysis, their conclusion is that almost all oils perform similarly this is not surprising as they all have standards to meet and they do! what seems most important is to change it regularly Well, fellow Saabistas' ET all, i am so grateful we are not engaged in pointless, endless, useless , hostile, contentious debate about what brand, type weight formula of oil to put in our SAABS! ( or other cars !) the dreaded "OIL THREAD " it speaks well of us that we can rise above the rebellious, repetitive ranting residing in other venues. Rather, reasonable ratiocination represented herein! regards Ps as Billy, Shakespeare said " “Educated men are so impressive!” (Romeo and Juliet )

 

[bogorge]

The most important thing is to choose the one with the correct spec and viscosity. Brand is really optional.

 

[hichamaziz]

hi thank you for thread

 

[Drake444]

Don't choose the oil based on brand name. Choose oils with classifications and tolerances recommended for your model of the car. It's not necessary to choose oils with the minimum admissible requirements (according to SAE, API). It's better to focus on the oils of the latest classifications, in the worst case - on "medium-oil" (according to SAE, API). Especially if you have old car it's better to use oils of more recent developments and classifications.