just brought a 97 subaru 2lt sport what should i do?
- Thread starter Drebbs
- Start date
Remap ECU - upgrade turbo and you should be pretty much there! A good quality sports exhaust with balanced manifold (matched length) for about £1500 will also make the car more interesting for you!
the_names_james
Torque Junkie
- Points
- 70
- Location
- Surrey, UK
N/A tuning comprises mainly of:
- Inlet, the faster you can get air "sucked" into the engine the better.
- Headwork, the less restrictions in the head the better (i.e, bigger valves, high lift cams, port and polish etc...)
- Timing, aggressive timing will give you more power, but you will need to use higher octane rated fuel to avoid det. (there is a limit as to how much advance you can run without damaging the internals). Also, timing is a bit of a compromise, what you gain in the high revs you tend to lose in the lower end of the rev range, or vice verca, depending on the result you want.
- Compression, raise the compression ratio to get more power from the same amount of air and fuel (increasing the CR will require the use of higher rated fuel)
- Exhaust, get those waste gasses moving out of the engine as fast as possible.
- Lighten and balance the main parts (sometimes known as "blueprinting") to enable the safer use of the higher revs the crazy cams will provide, and to minimise parasitic losses, effectively closing the gap between FHP (flywheel hp) and WHP (wheel hp)
Can't think of much more mechanical stuff, although there probably will be more you can do.
Probably cheaper in the long run to just sell the N/A Scooby and buy a factory turbo one.
- Inlet, the faster you can get air "sucked" into the engine the better.
- Headwork, the less restrictions in the head the better (i.e, bigger valves, high lift cams, port and polish etc...)
- Timing, aggressive timing will give you more power, but you will need to use higher octane rated fuel to avoid det. (there is a limit as to how much advance you can run without damaging the internals). Also, timing is a bit of a compromise, what you gain in the high revs you tend to lose in the lower end of the rev range, or vice verca, depending on the result you want.
- Compression, raise the compression ratio to get more power from the same amount of air and fuel (increasing the CR will require the use of higher rated fuel)
- Exhaust, get those waste gasses moving out of the engine as fast as possible.
- Lighten and balance the main parts (sometimes known as "blueprinting") to enable the safer use of the higher revs the crazy cams will provide, and to minimise parasitic losses, effectively closing the gap between FHP (flywheel hp) and WHP (wheel hp)
Can't think of much more mechanical stuff, although there probably will be more you can do.
Probably cheaper in the long run to just sell the N/A Scooby and buy a factory turbo one.
FFCBadger
Wrench Pro
- Points
- 61
- Location
- South Coast, UK
ECU remap should give you about 10% extra bhp on a non-turbo anything although if you took it to the right place Im sure they coud squeeze a little more out - that should leave you there or there abouts?
DOH. I meant to type Remap ECU - upgrade TO A turbo! - see if there is an aftermarket low boost ad on!!!! the_names_james has hit the nail on the head - how much time and money do you want to spend.
