How not to blow up an engine

[Tombini]

Heya guys, first post here and very impressed with the font of knowledge this forum represents!

I recently bought myself a project car which I plan on turbocharging. It's a Honda Integra 1993 also known as Acura in other parts of the world, with a B18B1 Honda engine. One of my roommates is into cars as well, (gotta say I'm quite jealous of his ~400KW AWD skyline) and has gifted me a turbocharger which he no longer needs. A Garret GT2560R.

I've been doing some research on installing this puppy on my NASP car and I'm seeking some guidance to do this safely. I have quite a low budget (~$1000) and would like a reliable end product.
What sort of things should I look out for, and is this even possible?


Thanks in advance
Tombini

 

[T9 man]

Greetings and a Warm Welcome to our TorqueCars Forum my Friend!

I am unable to help you with your question directly, but hopefully somebody can point you in the right direction for the knowledge that you seek!

Good luck buddy!

 

[turbonutter69]

Hello and Welcome to TorqueCars.:bigsmile:
Hope you enjoy your time with us.


Turbo'ing a naturally aspired engine will prob cost ££££'s.
Have a quick read here
http://www.torquecars.com/forums/f10...-engine-15003/

 

[davalav]

Hi mate!

Good engines them B18s and yes, its not too hard to turbo charge. Some companies even do kits for about $1000! You'll need:

turbo exhaust manifold to suit the turbo
Turbo (Which you have)
Downpipe and a larger exhaust
Oil feed and return
is the turbo water cooled? If so, will need water lines,
a head shim to lower compression.
Intercooler and pipe work
After market ECU
Uprated 255 fuel pump
larger injectors

On a B18 expect around 240bhp @7psi from a turbo conversion without going with forged internals.

There are a few forums if you google that can help as they've done the whole conversion.

 

[Tombini]

@davalav

I intend on buying the manifold online as well as a dump pipe. I actually already have oil and water feed lines, how much would it cost to get them tapped professionally? I don't want to risk drilling into the block and hitting an oil gallery instead of a coolant one!

What thickness shim should I be looking at, and is it worth installing shorter con rods and thinner pistons to increase engine volume? I'd like to steer clear of too much head work because it's a short road to $$ town.

I'm tossing up between a front mount intercooler and a top mount with a custom hood scoop instillation. All pipe work will be TIG welded by myself to lower costs.

I'm very DIY minded, and since I want to keep costs down I'd prefer to learn how to do something new than pay through the nose to get it done.

 

[davalav]

@davalav

I intend on buying the manifold online as well as a dump pipe. I actually already have oil and water feed lines, how much would it cost to get them tapped professionally? I don't want to risk drilling into the block and hitting an oil gallery instead of a coolant one!

What thickness shim should I be looking at, and is it worth installing shorter con rods and thinner pistons to increase engine volume? I'd like to steer clear of too much head work because it's a short road to $$ town.

I'm tossing up between a front mount intercooler and a top mount with a custom hood scoop instillation. All pipe work will be TIG welded by myself to lower costs.

I'm very DIY minded, and since I want to keep costs down I'd prefer to learn how to do something new than pay through the nose to get it done.

Tapping isn't too difficult, if you know a guy with a tap set I'm sure you could borrow it!


Regarding the head shim; You'll either need to save at least another $1k for forged pistons and shorted rods if you wish to lower compression that way. Or with a shim about 0.2mm should lower the compression enough.. actual figures I am unsure on.


Personally, FMIC is far superior. Easier to install and just in general is better.

 

[Tombini]

What sort of boost levels will I be able to run this setup safely?

 

[davalav]

What sort of boost levels will I be able to run this setup safely?

On a budget build 7psi maybe 8. Just need to do some research and see what others have been boosting at and go from there. I'm not Honda expert, but I know a little bit!

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

Tapping isn't too difficult, if you know a guy with a tap set I'm sure you could borrow it!


Regarding the head shim; You'll either need to save at least another $1k for forged pistons and shorted rods if you wish to lower compression that way. Or with a shim about 0.2mm should lower the compression enough.. actual figures I am unsure on.


Personally, FMIC is far superior. Easier to install and just in general is better.

SHORTENED RODS would not recommend as it will alter the rod ratio.
Just install the correct forged pistons with the right amount of dish to lower the comp ratio and forget all about shimming to lower the CR and use ARP studs to compress a MLS head gasket. Would also consider installing a set of forged rods at the same time.
You can get water feed to and from the turbo CHRA by making a T fitting in the rubber hoses

Do it once and do it right is the best way IMO.

 

[davalav]

SHORTENED RODS would not recommend as it will alter the rod ratio.
Just install the correct forged pistons with the right amount of dish to lower the comp ratio and forget all about shimming to lower the CR and use ARP studs to compress a MLS head gasket. Would also consider installing a set of forged rods at the same time.
You can get water feed to and from the turbo CHRA by making a T fitting in the rubber hoses

Do it once and do it right is the best way IMO.

Thanks for the far superior information! However, I was merely just telling of what I've seen others do with success on these 'budget' builds.

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

Dav the trouble with this kind of budget turbo build is that the driver will/may get hooked on boost and after the initial rush that more power gives it becomes the norm the temptation to increase the boost is hard to resist and adding more boost to a "budget"build is fraught with danger especially if it is going to be tracked where it will likely be on boost for longer than a road only car.


PS was not trying to rubbish your post but simply trying to offer a better more reliable solution.

 

[davalav]

Dav the trouble with this kind of budget turbo build is that the driver will/may get hooked on boost and after the initial rush that more power gives it becomes the norm the temptation to increase the boost is hard to resist and adding more boost to a "budget"build is fraught with danger especially if it is going to be tracked where it will likely be on boost for longer than a road only car.


PS was not trying to rubbish your post but simply trying to offer a better more reliable solution.

No worries mate! I completely understand and knew that it was not your intention.