I've got a 1170cc Wagon R + that I am getting 15 inch mags for and want to boost it as well. I have been told that a turbo off a 1300 or 1400 would do the trick? Would it?
Or how about twin turbos off a 660cc Kei car, set sequentially and one to spool up quicker than the other to reduce turbo lag? I only want serious 0-60kph times as it will be a little old lady car in disguise.
Don’t even go down that way, ‘coz its money down the drain. Heck if you got money to spend drop a 1600 cc Baleno engine into it, standard, and get your serious times.
Else, consider this alternative:
1. Port the exhaust and get a stainless-steel exhaust, 2&1/2” with sports cat-con, and straight thru’ muffler, which you would need to do anyways, if you putting in forced induction.
2. Drop in FI Jets from the 1300 cc. (any larger and you may need remapping of ECU)
3. Take the coil off a 1600cc to replace the existing coil.
4. Connect a 5farad condenser in series on the positive terminal of the coil.
5. Upgrade the HT cables to 8.5mm diameter.
6. Triple point Spark Plugs.
7. 6” PVC hose to replace the existing rubber hose, with a reducing nipple to 2&1/2” to fit the air intake of the engine-head.
8. Enlarge the hole in the air-filter box to accommodate the 6” hose.
9. Lighten your flywheel, (PLEASE get it done by an expert! You have been warned!)
10. Replace the mechanical water pump with electrical(gain 5-6 hp)
11. Hot-wire the electrical pump inside the fuel tank to by-pass the ECU.
NOW FOR SOME PRECAUTIONS:
1. Make sure your battery punches out at least 48 amp/h.
2. On your HT cables wrap 1.5 mm diameter copper wire on each of them, and ground them to a metal part( most convenient is the retaining screw on the distributer cap). This will prevent any escaping current from playing havoc on your ECU, and your ICE. For aesthetic value, string the prepared cables through different coloured heat shrinking sleeving, and apply heat with a hairdryer to get a snug fit.
3. According to the aerodynamics of your car, it behaves very well till it reaches around 68kmph. After that it begins to sway like a biatch, and if you still accelerating, you will find it smoothens out at around 85kmph.
In fact in this window of speed, it will be roller-coaster, even when you are over-taking or just simply passing a tree planted close to the side of the road.
This, coupled with the larger wheels, would increase risk, and be an embarrassment to explain when you beat the next guy but lose control and wrap yourself around a post or tree.
In order to counter-act that, you need the rear axle of the 1300cc to replace yours as the wider width would then effectively lower the C.O.G. of your ride.
Now since the wider rear wheel base would cause an over-steer problem, get your alignment done with 1-2 degrees negative setting.
And of course you would need stiffer springs, to match your comfort, remembering that the harder the springs, the lesser the ride comfort.
And since you wanna portray the “Granny-Gone Wild” persona here's a little extra.
1.Hoping you have kept all the parts you replaced, take an old plug and find a nut that threads over it.
2.Near the end of the exhaust pipe mebbe 2-3” from the end, drill a hole into it and weld this nut in, so that you can screw in the plug with the serious end of the plug exposed to the exhaust gasses.
3.Take the old ignition coil and anchor it near the spark plug.
4.Connect one HT lead from the old ones you removed, direct from coil to plug.
5.Negative of the coil, you ground to car chassis.
6.Positive to the positive out of a flasher unit used for turn signals.
7.And wire the flasher to be activated by a push button switch, kind used to tell if the car door is closed.
Keep this near you inside the cab.
So now, just as you are passing the competition and they turn their heads to see "who done dat!", press this button and the coil will provide a spark to the plug which would then ignite the unburnt fuel in the exhaust gases, giving you a nifty after-burner.
Best done at night!
Lemme know how it works out.
Picassoonwheels
