2000 E46 320d performance tuning

daruq

New member
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31
Location
Scunthorpe, UK
Car
BMW E46 320d
Hi,

Currently planing the performance tuning for my car. Please advise/correct me on my plans. Any help will be greatly appriciated ;)

I want to:
- bin the EGR and install the bypass
- install electronic boost control
- install boost gauge
- remap the engine with a custom map

Is there anything else that would be worth considering??

Thanks,
Dariusz
 
An efficient intercooler may help raise the power further.

Does the car have a DMF flywheel? There might be some gains swapping in a solid but lighter flywheel (usually done when you do the clutch) but beware there may be other issues.

What power gains are you hoping for?
 
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Be very cautious about dumping the DMF. They are not just there for refinement. It's also there to reduce the torque 'reversal' which happens every 180 degrees on engine rotation in a four stroke four cylinder engine. Basically all four pistons are stationary every 180 degrees. This is less of a problem with 5 or more cylinders.

Removing the DMF means that the entire drivetrain is subjected to that stress. It also subjects the crankshaft to extra stress because the solid FW couples everything from the wheels back to the engine itself.
 
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second what hdi has said i looked at ditching it when i cHANGE mine but other issues come into play

if your after bigger power after the remap the turbo from the 330 shoudl give you a bit more although custom manifold will have to be made

have money for a new clutch after a remap due to the increase in torque wearing it down more.
 
Celtic will get your car to about 180bhp (if it's the 136bhp at the moment) and over 300lbft. It will go very nicely indeed.

Personally I wouldn't rush at an oiled panel filter, a standard paper one works well and they're cheap enough to just replace every few months if indeed it's necessary. BMW parts are surprisingly cheap as well.

Oiled filters do take some cleaning effort and there have been reports of the oil contaminating the airflow sensors in some cases. I doubt this is actually a problem unless someone over applies the stuff.

The clutch thing is true to a point though. You will need to be sensible with the standard clutch after tuning but don't swap until it's worn unless you have slip problems from the start.

Mine only started to play up after about 110,000 miles (55,000 of which driven with the performance remap in place). SO, no complaints really.
 
Yes, my engine is the 136BHP one. Looking at different tuning companies it seems that the most common remap gain is 168BHP. I understand that this is completely stock hardware. I don't think that magical 200BHP is possible on stock setup. But 180+ would be lovely for a start ;)

I have no previous experience with electronic boost controlers. Can I ask for some advise on these please?

Regards,
Dariusz
 
Yes, my engine is the 136BHP one. Looking at different tuning companies it seems that the most common remap gain is 168BHP. I understand that this is completely stock hardware. I don't think that magical 200BHP is possible on stock setup. But 180+ would be lovely for a start ;)

I have no previous experience with electronic boost controlers. Can I ask for some advise on these please?

Regards,
Dariusz


I wouldn't bother with boost controllers. Use your right toes to control the torque and power delivery. An optimally tuned engine going to give a sweet driving experience.

I cannot think of any situation where you'd like to use the stock map over an optimised one.
 
I wouldn't bother with boost controllers. Use your right toes to control the torque and power delivery. An optimally tuned engine going to give a sweet driving experience.

I cannot think of any situation where you'd like to use the stock map over an optimised one.


Agreed I don't see the point in a boost controller for a diesel. Your right foot should be the boost controller after the re-map.
 
Right foot is to use the boost. But the controler is needed to make sure that the boost is there ready waiting for when you need it.

With the controller you can change the boost pressure, eliminate the turbo lag and make the engine more responsive. Some units can even be set up so that different settings are applied for different throttle positions.

Why do you say It's not a good idea? :confused:

http://www.torquecars.com/tuning/boost-controllers.php

Regards,
Dariusz
 
A decent controller on a petrol car will simple iron out the boost spike that can happen on the standard controller.
So even if you don't want to up the boost then a good controller is worth it to calm the boost spike down.
 
A decent controller on a petrol car will simple iron out the boost spike that can happen on the standard controller.
So even if you don't want to up the boost then a good controller is worth it to calm the boost spike down.

So basically for this purpose we should forget the boost controller and let the tuners map the whole thing through the ECU.
 
For a diesel yes because they don't really run that high boost so there is that much of a problem unlike petrol turbo's.

You can't really run much boost with a diesel engine as the geometric compression ratio is so hign. There is also no throttle which is why diesels lend themselves very well to turbocharging.

There's also the other consideration which is that a naturally aspirated diesel is horrid to drive in general so the diesel turbo technology is well developed.

You won't get any benefit with a boost controller because the diesel engine's torque and running speed is controlled by fuel delivery only. The intake air mass, although metered, is not rationed.

Spend your money on a remap and possibly a modified exhaust system.

If your car has a particle filter then don't bypass the EGR as it will not be able to regenerate the filter properly.
 
Thanks for great info guys! ;)

Particle filter... hmmm I don't know if I have one... Checked on realoem but still not sure. How can I check??
 
re boost controller
if it has a VNT turbo - it might do on 2000 depending on if its CR - then there is no need as the ECU will adjust the flow so the boost is there. otherwise you would get a lot of smoke out the rear as the fueling would be there just not enough air ;)
 
I have put a EGR bypass on the car and I can feel more low end. Other than that not much has changed really.

Also discovered that in a fast acceleration my boost is not smooth and I can feel a gap at about 2500rpm. So it accelerates then gap and then continue to accelerate. Weird... Has anyone had that problem before?

Regs.
Dariusz
 
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