Torque Cars

1987 T2, modded,fast.

Discussion in 'RX7/RX8 forums' started by Ronbros, 3 April 2013.

  1. Ronbros

    Ronbros Torque Junkie

    Messages:
    242
    From:
    USA Austin tx.
    Car:
    opel-isuzu 1.8 turb
    this site has been slow lately, so here is one of my toys.

    1987 FC ,94 FD engine ,Atkins seals,street ported,big single turbo, W/A I/C, Microtech EMS, 3 1/2" magnaflow exhaust. ETC

    custom 2 tone paint, CCW custom wheels, Nitto tyres., custom nose,bonneville style.
    lotsa mods!
     

    Attached Files:

    obi_waynne likes this.
  2. old-git

    old-git Moderator

    Messages:
    9,182
    From:
    Essex
    Car:
    Elan & Robin Hood
    Hi

    A few questions.

    1. What is the red and silver contraption?

    2. Why Nitto?
    3. Which ones?

    I have been looking for tyres for my project but Nitto don't have a distributor over here (UK) so they have to be imported specifically.
     
  3. HugoBoss

    HugoBoss The Torque Meister

    Messages:
    1,488
    From:
    Australia NSW
    Car:
    r33 skyline gtst
    Very tasty matey, really nice .
     
  4. obi_waynne

    obi_waynne Administrator Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    41,306
    From:
    Deal, Kent UK
    Car:
    A3 1.4 TFSI 150 COD
    Great work, what is the spec list on this beasty then? (0-60 bhp Torques etc...)
     
  5. Ronbros

    Ronbros Torque Junkie

    Messages:
    242
    From:
    USA Austin tx.
    Car:
    opel-isuzu 1.8 turb
    OG, red parts are, large piece is a Hi-volume electric fuel pump, smaller unit is hi flow fuel filter, with 1/2" lines thru out. google SX fuel systems, they do aircraft-mil. spec stuff. i have a useful array of gages to monitor engine.

    waynne, best so far on wheel dyno(rollinroad), was on pump fuel 420whp, on 100 low lead fuel, with W/meth, injection 485whp, torque runs around 385lbs/ft up to best of 440lbs/ft.

    what helps is light weight car, 2680lbs , 0-60 3.8 (nitto 555R tyres), 265-45-16. Nitto tyres are a good compromise for street or track

    top speed 170-180, mid range passing is encredible. its all about power to weight.

    mazda FC RXs have great suspension . i have adjustable dampers,and stiffer lowering
    .springs.
     
  6. T9 man

    T9 man TC Pro Founder Moderator

    Messages:
    20,369
    From:
    London, UK
    Car:
    Saab 9-3SS T9
    That sounds like quite a setup you have there buddy ;)
     
    Ronbros likes this.
  7. skodzilla

    skodzilla New member

    Messages:
    9
    From:
    Palma de Mallorca, Spain
    Car:
    Skoda 130RS 13b
    Hi Ronbros. You obviously know your way around these rotaries so maybe you could give me some pointers. I have a Turbo II engine connected to a Porsche 915 gearbox. This is going in the back of a Skoda 130RS replica. The engine number states that it is a Mazda Racing IMSA unit. Know what may have been done to the unit? There are a lot of ancillaries and wiring going to the engine. Can you give guidance to what I can remove. I imagine that I will need and aftermarket ECU - what's best and comes with best default settings? Gauges - original or aftermarket - what do recommend? Any and all help would be appreciated as I am a total rotary virgin!
     
  8. Ronbros

    Ronbros Torque Junkie

    Messages:
    242
    From:
    USA Austin tx.
    Car:
    opel-isuzu 1.8 turb
    what is the vehicle going to be used for street or racing,and what type racing, also a pic of the car,here in states never seen a skoda?

    is it factory turbo. of aftermarket turbo?

    thats a good combination of T2 engine and Porsche 915 box, for a mid mount setup.

    what has me puzzled ,is you say its an IMSA race motor, if it truly is it should be properly done internally, like quality APEX seals, and lube system mods.
    what kills most Mazda rotaries, is heat buildup from detonation, caused by turbo boost, and most important the tuning maps.

    good cooling is a must have also, N/A engines are just about bullet-proof, no turbo= little heat.
    if it was an IMSA N/A engine it would not be good for turbocharging(to much comp.ratio)

    an aftermarket ECU-ECM, is a must have modification.

    i use a Microtech ecu, but most(lately) say the Haltech is good also.

    gages are a good plan, so you can monitor engine vitals, with data-logging for study after race, most have it nowadays.

    also with proper fuel/ignition maps ,alcohol injection , AMAZING things can happen with performance HP, also is it a 12A engine or a 13B engine, or a 26B three rotor?
     
  9. skodzilla

    skodzilla New member

    Messages:
    9
    From:
    Palma de Mallorca, Spain
    Car:
    Skoda 130RS 13b
    *Hi buddy, your post got stuck in the moderation queue because you posted up photos and you have not made the required 10 posts first.
    I have allowed these through for now but would appreciate it if you followed the rules and wait until you hit 10 posts before trying to post photos again*

    T9 man
    Super Moderator.



    Hi Ronbros, thanks for the reply. The car will mainly be for street use but I am trying to do a build that will make a sub ten minute lap of the Nurburgring Nordscheife fairly safe and easy (My one bucket list item).

    The car is rear engined and was built in Czechoslovakia in the 1970s. The 130RS was race car based on the 110R road going coupe. The most obvious mods were the widely flared arches.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Not very good pictures but all I have here right now

    It had a rear engined, rear wheel drive set-up

    [​IMG]

    The engine was a 1.3 litre four cylinder unit that the factory managed to tune up to around 100bhp

    I live in Spain but bought this from the UK ebay site.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It looks like a 915 gearcase has been welded to an RX7 bell housing. The box has not been inverted so the whole thing is set up for rear/rear configuration. I mentioned that the engine had an IMSA stamp. Sounds unlikely as the engine came with all the standard ancillaries but here's what's on there

    [​IMG]

    The car is at a pretty early stage of its development so I can go in a variety of directions with it. I am very tempted to go for a mid mount set-up but am a bit afraid of cutting all the welds on the gearbox and starting again. I own a nice AC/DC tig welder so have the ability to do the job but am afraid of the whole thing starting to look like a patchwork quilt!

    Looking forward to reading any thoughts you may have
     
  10. skodzilla

    skodzilla New member

    Messages:
    9
    From:
    Palma de Mallorca, Spain
    Car:
    Skoda 130RS 13b
    Got that T9 - didn't read the rules
     
  11. Ronbros

    Ronbros Torque Junkie

    Messages:
    242
    From:
    USA Austin tx.
    Car:
    opel-isuzu 1.8 turb
    HI, skodZ, looks like someone bolted a stock 1987 T2 engine to a nice Porsche transaxle.

    looking at engine pic,1st remove the emission air pump and assciated pipes etc, dont need that on race engine.

    2nd remove the aircondition compressor, you dont need that(i think).

    3rd remove the power steering pump, with rear engine car,dont need that either.

    those will free up some hp, look things over and remove most things related to them.
    you may have to make some flat plates(aluminum) to block off some holes.
    the stamping numbers maybe, someone bought good condition rotor housings, they were known for wearing out,(chrome surfaces).

    after engine is stripped of ancillares, good idea to check compression on all rotor faces,(maybe put starter on and spin over to determine smooth rotation,by the sound, not the best way but gives a quick idea of condition of seals).

    25yr old engine,who knows what evil lurks in the heart of the beast.LOL. not many good running turbo motors around,but they will be great in a light weight car.

    KOOL your car,i never seen one .
    , quick pic of my OPEL/ISUZU coupe 1982, 1.8L diesel turbo. 5spd rear drive.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. skodzilla

    skodzilla New member

    Messages:
    9
    From:
    Palma de Mallorca, Spain
    Car:
    Skoda 130RS 13b
    Nice looking Coupe too Ronbros!! Yeah, I have removed the non essential stuff but I am still left with a bewildering amount of unidentifiable stuff and a whole lot of wiring. I suppose the aftermarket ECU will take care of a lot of that though.

    Yeah, the engine and box are a risk being as old as they are. A very strange and disquieting thing happened when I drained the engine oil - a whole lot of what looked like crystal clear water came out. Dunno what it was but probably not good! Sump off for a look, I suppose.

    Hope you're not getting hit by the polar vortex where you are over there!!
     
  13. Ronbros

    Ronbros Torque Junkie

    Messages:
    242
    From:
    USA Austin tx.
    Car:
    opel-isuzu 1.8 turb
    most of the stuff on the engine(like wiring) can be removed!
    along with most sensors, they are old world rotary stuff, not much use when you go to aftermarket ECU and sensors.

    basicly you will need gages for oil press., engine temp., boost press., fuel press., RPM, most will be available from the ECU supplier.

    water from the base(sump), is a sure sign of bad rotor housing seals, but possible cracks in housings or side plates(irons),the thing is you will have to take the engine completely apart, and examine everything internal.
    taking sump off a rotary engine wont show much,except the bottom of the rotor housings, and that aint much to see.

    but looking at the bright side your learning curve is on the up stroke.lol.

    the engines are very simple, almost to simple(EXAMINE EVERYTHING CAREFULLY).

    wearing parts, that can be expensive, are rotor housings, and rotors themselves, the APEXs run allover the map for cost, best to stick to factory stuff if you are not after serious HI HP, anything over 350-400hp can be expensive.

    be careful of used wearing parts,!

    mount the engine on an engine stand,and start to take it apart, stand thet can rotate it for front to point upwards.

    something of interest for you,i have some left over rotary parts, they are in storage, let me know,and i will make a list, with prices? also pix.
    shipping may be hi-tho!

    and YES its is cold temps here in central Texas,very unusual, that polar vortex, is here also!
     

    Attached Files:

  14. skodzilla

    skodzilla New member

    Messages:
    9
    From:
    Palma de Mallorca, Spain
    Car:
    Skoda 130RS 13b
    Thanks for the input Ron, very much appreciated. The clear liquid that came out was really crystal clear - if it was just water I would have expected it to be dirty with aluminium oxides, emulsions and #!#!#!#!. Pretty odd, but like you say - got to take a look. Could you provide me with a link for your ECU and Gauge supplier?

    I was diverted through Texas on the way back to Europe from Mexico two years ago. I remember the guy at immigration gave me the warmest welcome I have ever had entering a country. You Texans are OK!
     
  15. Ronbros

    Ronbros Torque Junkie

    Messages:
    242
    From:
    USA Austin tx.
    Car:
    opel-isuzu 1.8 turb
    hi skodZ, my ecu is a microtech from OZ(australia), google microtech efi,

    another good one is Haltech again from OZ,

    be sure that the ecu you get is familier with rotorys, they require a completely different program, especially with staged ijnection maps

    for gages i use Summit racing USA.

    looks like its time to take then engine down(apart),

    clear water,it means the engine had not run since water was added to the cooling system, it had not been circulated and mixed with oil, water seeps in from leaky rotor housing seals(or from cracks), and settles to
    the bottom!

    but i had an engine i bought was like that, it had been under water, a used engine is a gamble at best, but it can be rebuilt(redone).
     
    Last edited: 12 January 2014
  16. Ronbros

    Ronbros Torque Junkie

    Messages:
    242
    From:
    USA Austin tx.
    Car:
    opel-isuzu 1.8 turb
    skodZ google RX7club.com

    its about the best rotory site you can see, but sometimes to much information!
     
  17. skodzilla

    skodzilla New member

    Messages:
    9
    From:
    Palma de Mallorca, Spain
    Car:
    Skoda 130RS 13b
    Thanks Ron, I'll look at the RX7club site. To be honest I am a few months away from fitting the engine and box. Got quite a bit of structural work to do first. Thanks a bunch for ECU info. I'll certainly go with one of these. I know that the Aussies and Kiwis love their rotaries so I reckon they know their stuff
     

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