whats first when suping up a 1600cc engine?

76bugluvr

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i am getting ready to soop up my 1976 vw beetle, it has the stock engine in it. I was just woundering if anybody had any suggestions about what i should do first. i already bought a high performance engine rebuild kit(bigger pistons and cylinders, new valves+guides, gaskets etc. what should i do now?
 
Crank grind and polish while the engine is in bits. Getting the head flowed also makes sense. A groove cut around the valves under the head leading into the combustion chamber will increase the torque low down a lot but I don't know the pattern for this specific engine. What carbs will you be running? Twin 40's sound great but are quite hard to set up right.
 
my plans

i am planning on doing other modifactions b4 i put on the carbs. dual 40s are what i have been looking at. the car if fuel injected as of right now. i would also like to get a 5 speed gear box but have no idea wear to look. this is my first project car, so i am just getting ideas for what i should do. i have looked at new crank shafts and cam shafts also. i just don't know wear to start.
 
I fyour fuel injected - I would forget the Twin 40's although they do sound great. IF you skimp on anything you will always regret it. If a jobs worth doing it's worth doing right. Gearboxes - Look at Skoda & Porsche for possible donors. Obviously get a strong box from a performance model. Try to match the power output of the donor car with yours when looking for a gearbox so the ratios are not to wildly off the mark.

Little things matter as well. Look at a lighter flywheel, heavy duty clutch and of course racing disks/pads. If it's mainly for street use don't go too mad as lots of performance parts make driving on the roads a real pain.
 
going shopping

i am getting ready to do some shopping and was just wonder what things on my list i should get first. keep in mind i already have a high performance enginge rebuild kit. my list includes; connecting rod bearings, main bearings, counterweighted crank(69mm stoke), stroker rod set, a new cam shafter w/ a lifter kit, an adjustable timing gear set, set of rocker arms, and push rods. i can not afford to get all of this at once. a new gearbox is a future project. but what should ig get now??? please help!!!
 
If you are doing stuff in stages then I would do the bottom end stuff first. You can come back and do head work later on (cam shaft & lifters and valves). If you are getting a different gearbox later on then leave the clutch/flywheel for now as these can be fairly easily done with the gearbox change.
 
a change of heaart

well i have been doing some reading and have come to the conclusion that i am going to hold off on powering up my beetle. i just don't have the funds right now. i just want to get the little bugger going. i have been looking at ignition systems at jcwhitney.com. they have two set ups that sound good. the first is addvertised as a "massive power boost for your beetle" by jacobs electronics, the other is the "PERTRONIX IGNITOR®II ELECTRONIC IGNITION CONVERSION KITS" im not sure which one i should get, or even if i should get them both. if you have an extra minute could you take a peek at them? also what does the "bottom end" consist of. keep in mind i am no greese monkey :( :? thanx

~kyle
 
american dump

i recently went to new york, and i was at a car junk place, i found a damaged mustang 1967fastback, with a tatty interior and eterior, it does go but not very fast, i'vr imported it to england, so i can start this project, i dont want to keep the same engine, im thinking of doing it up a-z, any ideas on what engine to use, no price limits
 
dodge 440 ( appox 7000 cc ithink ) engine lovely other wise if money no object look at austin martins new engine in a lovely old car talk about a sleeper this would go back to teh old idea of old being slow
or you could always look at corvette engines to stick to usa
 
I fyour fuel injected - I would forget the Twin 40's although they do sound great. IF you skimp on anything you will always regret it. If a jobs worth doing it's worth doing right. Gearboxes - Look at Skoda & Porsche for possible donors. Obviously get a strong box from a performance model. Try to match the power output of the donor car with yours when looking for a gearbox so the ratios are not to wildly off the mark.

Little things matter as well. Look at a lighter flywheel, heavy duty clutch and of course racing disks/pads. If it's mainly for street use don't go too mad as lots of performance parts make driving on the roads a real pain.

Agree with Waynne in principle, however;

Be careful when considering using racing parts on a road car.

Racing pads only work efficiently when up to their high working temperature, which will never happen on the road unless you drive like a complete dic*head.

I think that a lot of tosh is spoken about brake upgrades when cars are for road use. If you are keeping to the speed limits :) then the standard brakes will be ok (if in good condition) as that is what they were designed for. All a tuned engine will do is get you to the required speed quicker and you don't use your brakes for that :)

If you are wanting to stop quicker, why? So you can drive closer to the guy in front? Harder pad material means more brake pressure is required so the servo may need attention. You could even end up with longer braking distances when pads are not up to their correct operating temperature. Braking feel can also be lost, especially when pads are cold (and racing ones will almost always be too cold). Talk to a couple of reputable brake specialists (not just shops selling the stuff). A lot of improvement can be achieved by a slight change in brake pad material without going to the extreme of using race parts.

Alternatively, look at what the manufacturer has done to the brakes of his more powerful versions of your car. If they fit your car, this could be a very cost effective way of upgrading if your original system need replacing.

Light flywheel/clutch assembly will allow a faster responding engine due to the reduction in reciprocating mass. However, this can be a disadvantage when accelerating from a standing start (traffic lights, drag strip) as you need the stored energy to reduce the chances of the engine bogging down. Also, due the reduction in the dampening effect of a heavier flywheel, tickover and slow running will not be so pleasant. Again, what you do depends on what you are planning to use the car for and what you are prepared to compromise on.

Heavy duty clutches are what they say, heavy duty and this also relates to the pedal pressure required to use them. Without changing pedal ratios or master cylinder/slave cylinder bore ratios, you could soon end up with a stiff left leg. My Elan (25 years ago) ran 4 paddle racing clutch and the girlfriend (now wife) had to pull on the steering wheel in order be able to apply enough pressure on the clutch to change gear :) I have learnt a lot since then :)
 
"the girlfriend (now wife) had to pull on the steering wheel in order be able to apply enough pressure on the clutch to change gear I have learnt a lot since then"

- You sent her to the Gym ;)

Having done an emergency stop on a motorway and experiencing brake fade I really rate good brakes, they can be a life saver. But you are right, being able to stop quickly does not give a licence to drive like an idiot, tailgating the car in front.
 
As for carbs, I would suggest Kadrons. The gearbox is fine as far as power goes so long as you're happy with four gears. I've had over 300 HP going through a standard but reconditioned box with no probs.

we have a guy here in Australia called Stan Pobjoy who builds great motors. Have a look at this youtube vid: [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yC7ohf-rE_4
 
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