New Clutch

[HDi fun]

I'm in need of a new clutch assembly fairly soon. It's starting to slip a bit between 2000-2500 rpm (which is where the torque band lies).

At 98,000 miles I'm not too concerned, although I'd rather not have to replace it.

I've tried burning the glaze from the plates - by stopping the car, apply parking brake, engage fifth gear and rev the bejesus out of it whilst letting in the clutch. Lots of smoke and horrid smells. Seems a little better for now but it still managed to rev fully against the clutch with my left foot well clear of the pedal.

What should I buy in terms of clutch components? Is it worth me uprating the friction parts and getting a stiffer and sportier spring assembly?

I really need advice here. Much as I'm the diesel protagonist I'm short on transmission knowledge.

Thoughts please, ladies and gents, if you will.

Kind regards,

Paul Anderson.

 

[fingers]

Hi Paul,

If its done 98,000 on the original clutch I would put an oem clutch back in it. Thats very good mileage for a clutch. I would replace the clutch plate, release diaphram and release bearing. If it hase a nose bearing that sits in the middle of the flywheel I would replace that too but you would have to ask your local dealer about that one. You can buy all the parts seperatley but I have never known anyone to replace only an individual part, probably because it is bad practise to do so. It would be a bit like changing brake discs and leaving old worn pads on there.

On very few occaisions I have had to change flywheels too, but this is very rare. Just make sure you check it for uneven hot spots. If its smooth to the touch it should be fine.

 

[Freddie]

I replaced driveshaft oil seals when I did mine too, would recommend this as they can become quite corroded.

 

[obi_waynne]

Power clutches can show up weaknesses elsewhere in the car. I got through about 6 clutch cables with mine. You should certainly replace the release bearing/diaphragm as well - it would be a false economy not to. If it is a cable clutch I would also get a new cable installed just to be on the safe side (self adjusting clutches tend to snap). Mileage is good for a remapped diesel so a proper PUG clutch should suffice - be careful of cheaper aftermarket OEM clutches as they are not always as good.

 

[HDi fun]

Guy's thanks for top quality advice. I will do as suggested and get the whole assembly done, plate, housing and thrust bearing as this is what you advise.

I had been considering an uprated clutch but your comments about 98k on a factory original make perfect sense.

It is a hydraulic clutch which is beautifully light in operation and don't want to spoil it with a stiff sprung sporty one if it's not necessary.

Peugeot dealer is saying just over £200 for all parts inc. VAT. Is this good?

obviously I'll get local pug specialist to fit it - if I tried it'd take me two years!!!

 

[Freddie]

That isn't a bad price for the parts, but try a local motor factors like GSF if you have one near you, it was under £100 for my OE Valeo clutch in the end.

 

[HDi fun]

I thought 200 all in was quite fair,too. I'm unsure what the OEM brand is on my car - any ideas?

If I can get a definitive answer then I'll have a quick shop around. It's not desperate yet, it only slips if I really boot it hard in fifth gear at about 2000rpm, and even then, only a little bit of slip is noticeable.

But the stench of overheated friction parts is sickly. Maybe I should rev it up stationary and smoke the clutch for a few seconds - would this help remove 'glaze' from the surfaces, much like you can do with glazed brakes?

Rgds,

P.

 

[Freddie]

GSF will be able to tell you the brand of the clutch you want, most likely Valeo on a Pug.

Can't help with the deglazing issue though! Do you cruise in neutral much? I've heard this can affect the clutch..

 

[HDi fun]

I Never cruise/coast in neutral.

It's wasteful in a diesel car as they run on air only on trailing throttle. If it's in N then the engine has to add fuel to keep it at idle speed.

 

[obi_waynne]

This sounds daft but take out the mats when you take it in. The drivers mat if thick can affect the setting of the pedal position and travel. (I learnt this one the hard and expensive way!)

 

[Chris Green]

I Never cruise/coast in neutral.

It's wasteful in a diesel car as they run on air only on trailing throttle. If it's in N then the engine has to add fuel to keep it at idle speed.

Aha, I suspected as much. That'll explain why the computer shows a worse instantaneous reading for coasting in neutral (eg 356 mpg) than it does for backing your foot off on a downhill section (eg 999 mpg - off the scale in fact).

I tried to expound that theory once at the Citroen forum, and was told I was talking out of my arse.

I'm not surprised that you have clutch slip at the torque band in a remapped diesel. My C4 2.0 HDi used to do it in 6th if you floored the pedal and it wasn't even modded. That only had 32K on the clock.