JC Denton's Honda Prelude

No, there is no lambda. It could just be a cam position sensor but it seems a bit big. Anyways, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I just wondered what it was...
 
I don't suppose it's a butterfly valve? Post up a picture mate. When you get the new engine, what's the one thing you're not going to do?
 
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There is no rust, their just a mess where the rust has been cut away. It needs new arches making up really but that is beyond my skill.

On the plus side I ordered my new engine today. Reconditioned £495 I gave just £350.:blink1::blink1: Quite proud of myself until I realized that its Friday the 13th...
 
There is no rust, their just a mess where the rust has been cut away. It needs new arches making up really but that is beyond my skill.

On the plus side I ordered my new engine today. Reconditioned £495 I gave just £350.:blink1::blink1: Quite proud of myself until I realized that its Friday the 13th...

I believe 'puntopimp' is a welder. Maybe worth a PM?

That's good news on the engine. Now get it fitted!
 
Never buy anything from Jimmy's Jap Parts, Birmingham!!...Cam shafts where snapped, cambelt was shredded, crank pulley was broken in twain, alternator tensioner was bent, cam cover was cracked!:sad2:

& that makes me a sad pander...
 
I need advice. I rebuilt my head & reused the bottom end of my new engine, fired it up & it started, idled & revved. So I bolted it in, put the ancillaries, drive shafts & exhaust back on & now it won't fire up...

Symptom: engine cranks over, ignition in intermittent ( fires a cylinder every now & then but won't start ) It has compression, valve timing is 'bang on' & their is spark at the plugs.

When I crank it over it just keeps getting flooded...

Quite proud of myself really, I've never been that deep into an engine before. I know that the problem is minor. Any advice will be Most appreciated.
 
It was just a sensor (coolant temperature). Now its running fine:lol::lol:

T'would appear that air in the coolent also affects the idle on Honda's of this vintage.

I have read quite a lot about doing a vtec transplant but couldn't afford it. Needs new mounts, custom driveshafts, & ECU. T'would be a good project for someone though.
 
For anybody still following this thread:

I was just driving around in my Lude:bigsmile::bigsmile::bigsmile::bigsmile:

It has a massive vacuum leak & a misfire, but I'm sure I'll get it sorted in good time...
 
More bad news, its not just a really bad misfire but appears to be running on only 2 cylinders:confused:

All cylinders have compression, spark & fuel, valve timing is bank on. I suspect that 2 of the injectors are not getting a signal or not working at all.

Electrics have been shorted out a couple of times...
 
I need help!

My Lude is still only firing on cylinders 1 & 3 ( not sister cylinders ). I've been pouring over this for ages now & just can't figure it out.

Pulling the plugs from the dead cylinders you can see that they're wet, so their getting fuel, all four have spark & compression.

I'm wondering if 180 bad cam timing could cause this??:blink:

I tried reversing the plugs ( 1 onto 4, 3 onto 2 ), thinking that if the cam timing where 180 degrees out it would run as normal...

The rent is mounting up on the garage so I've got to figure this out soon:confused::confused:
 
Are the plugs on 1 & 3 actually sparking? Don't reverse the plugs on a hunch, it is a good way to wreck an engine.

Are the plugs in the correct order?
 
Never thought of that. But I did switch them around, the 2 from the working cylinders for the 2 from the dead cylinders...no change.

Today I reset the valve timing 180 degrees...still the same 2 cylinders working.

This is really confusing, the only thing I can put it down to is a brain problem:blink:
 
I'm writing this down again in hopes that somebody will recognize the problem & advise.

I would really like to drive around in my Lude again so here's a breakdown of the problem:


Only 2 cylinders working, 1 & 3 (not sisters, not next to each other).

All 4 have compression, spark & fuel.

Valve timing is spot on & not 180 degrees out.

Distributor only fits one way therefore is correct.

I can take a plug wire from one of the good cylinders & won't work on the dead ones so I don't think there is any problem with the ignition system.

No vacuum leaks, new head gasket, rebuilt valve train, new gaskets & seals all round.

Bottom end of engine came from a car that had suffered cambelt failure: 1 broken camshaft, 1 broken valve spring, no damage to pistons though & piston rings seem to be sealing properly.

I have tried swapping the injectors around with no change.

Spark plugs in dead cylinders are wet with petrol so I know their getting fuel.

Inlet manifold has been cleaned & polished & all hoses & sensors are attached.

All sensors are confirmed as working.


What is missing?:sad2::sad2::sad2::sad2::sad2::sad2::sad2::sad2::sad2::sad2::sad2::sad:sad2:
 
Its too old, but the ECU has an LED that flashes codes when it detects a fault & its not showing any faults.

I'm thinking valve adjustment?? but wouldn't a bad valve adjustment just cause it to run badly? idle roughly, ect?

ATM the idle speed is constant...even on 2 cylinders.

Thanks for your response though
 
I've heard of damaged ECU's causing the same problem but I thought that was only when you have coil packs:blink::blink:

I have 1 coil & a dizzy. I wonder if the ECU could be firing the injectors at the wrong time????
 
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