Honest this is my last mod.

[TCJBOLDIE]

I am in the process of lowering the rear outer lower suspension arm location and it was fabbed up by a fitter and turner so I could take it to a specialist welder to weld all the bits together and also weld all the strengthening gussets to it to ensure strength so I can have it approved by an approved engineer so the car will still be road legal.

I am told that this lowering of the rear roll centre was a secret Ralliart mod and that it removes/reduces the sudden snap oversteer/looseness in the rear end when powering out of corners.

When I get it back I have to install new inner and outer bearings and take the car to my suspension guru for installation.

It would be great if someone over in the UK can contact Ralliart to see if they still have any info on this mod.

 

[Lunchmoney]

Honest this is my last mod.

I don't believe you

 

[obi_waynne]

Me neither!

Last mod this week perhaps!

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

Sprung
Well I may get a GTX comp wheel fitted to the 3076R turbo OR a new 3.5 inch dump pipe when the long suffering 3 inch one springs a leak But am running out of options as the motor is far from the factory 2.0 8 valve SOHC as it is now a built forged and balanced 2.3 twin cam 16V that has been flowed and port matched with Kelford 264/270 cams,RX7 gearbox,diff is a 3.9 LSD,Koni dampers, adj coilovers all round , revised spring rates after corner weighting the car, big brake upgrade with a bias adjuster, Stainless steel braided brake and clutch lines,turbo,exhaust manifold.fuel pump,injectors, billet steel flywheel,HD solid centre clutch,Spal cooling fans,V8 radiator core.

So am open to suggestions as to what I have left to do or should do next.

PS haven't added up the $$$$$ but have learned a few things along the way as well as endured the highs and lows of modifying my car as it has been a character building journey over 27 years

PS forgot the thermal inlet manifold gasket, ceramic coated twin scroll turbine housing and the larger throttle body, the 600x300x50 mm front mount intercooler and BOV, front spoiler with splitter and ducts taking cooling air to the front brakes.

 

[obi_waynne]

It certainly is character building.

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

Did I also mention the thicker new rear adjustable bar plus the fully poly bushed suspension and the alloy bush between the rear x member and body that better locates the torque tube and helps prevent wheel tramp along with the ARP studs for the main bearing caps head studs and flywheel bolts ?

I also have 9 17x7 inch alloy wheels with 2 different types of semi slicks on them as well as 5 of the original factory 15x6 inch wheels.

 

[obi_waynne]

And normal service has been resumed

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

I don't believe you

Well LM is on the money as have consulted a specialist race suspension expert and he tells me that my usual suspension shop has missed a few things that need fixing like the rear is set too high ( he called it rake) and that the front needs roll centre adjusters as the lower arms are level and should only be that way when at or near the limit of travel and that the rear needs a bit more toe.
So that will be attended to before my next event in a month or so.

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

It certainly is character building.

It must be running out my ears by now

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

Just picked up a custom set of rear camber plates so the car will be off to my new suspension guru shortly

 

[obi_waynne]

Another last mod @TCJBOLDIE

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

Obi after this mod I have run out of ideas

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

At my recent track day I feel that the car now has a more gentle rear grip breakaway

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

The joys of being a car nut and modifying them seems to throw up new problems that require solutions

Well my new suspension guru has installed the rear camber plates and has reset the front & rear coilover ride heights and reset the F&R alignment settings as well with a little more rear toe in to help reduce the rear stepping out a little and installed 25mm thick front roll centre adjusters that have made the lower ball joint very close to the disc . They have made light contact with the discs when the suspension is loaded when turning but have cured that with a bit of judicious machining at the area of contact however I have done some research using a brake disc catalogue to find a suitable disc that is the right diameter and thickness with a lower overall hat height and found that Honda S2000 300 mm diameter and 25mm thick rotors have a 6mm lower hat height that gives more space between the disc and ball joint so I purchased a set of slotted and dimpled rotors and had my machinist drill them to suit my cars bolt PCD and the hub centre hole and have installed them myself using spacer washers to centralize the calipers on the disc.

Should that still not be sufficient clearance I can have the hubs machined to further increase the gap but I doubt that it will be needed .