My first turbo....

W

whos your mate

Tuner
Points
30
Location
Suffolk
Car
Audi A3 1.8T-Sport
I've had several cars over the last ten years (about 10) but never a petrol turbo - until now.
I've just bought an A3 T-Sport and need some advise.

Which BOV for starters? I've read that regular valves can cause fault codes and temporary mixture issues but recirculating valves don't make any noise and - at the end of the day - im after a woosh/pfsssst because im a big kid....
I'll also be fitting an induction kit, a back box, a de-cat pipe and getting her remapped.
I don't want to make her look any different so i'll be getting a few scrathces sorted but thats it for the bodywork.

Anyway.... Any advise gratefully recieved.

Craig.
 
Hi craig and welcome to TorqueCars. I'm sure that Forge do a partially recirculating dump valve for the 1.8T that avoids the issues you mentioned.

Get a remap done, this will be the best mod you ever do and will dramatically improve the performance so move this up your mod list.

Which engine code does yours have? Is it the AGU?
 
I wouldn't bother with BOVs, they add little if any performance benefit. An ECU remap is the single best performance mod but I would complete the other mods first. That way the tuner can maximise the benefit of the other alterations.
 
forge do the splitter r valve which is sadly the closest you will get to an atmospheric dv woosh:sad2:

and i'll speak honestly here mate(from experience cause i have the same engine as you and have done all the mods to get the most out of the ko3s!!) unless you have deep pockets i wouldnt bother changing anything apart from the dv and a generic stage 1 remap (unless something is on its way out!!! eg exhaust)
cause a generic map will get you to around 200-220bhp and 220-240lb/ft torque which is fun!! and looking back i wish i hadnt paid out over a £1,000+ just to get the little bit extra out of the turbo!!!!
 
Thanks for your feedback folks.
I think in light of what you've told me i'll get her remapped first as i have a friend who does it so i can always get it changed later on if i perform further mods.
Don't know if i'll bother with the recirc valve....
I'd still like a slightly fruitier sound-track though. Any thoughts on which silencer?
Cheers, Craig.
 
leave the recirc valve until it splits - which it most likely will do.
if your fitting a induction kit then you will get an audible whoosh from the 007p.
early early 1.8t can have atmos BOVs fitted without any issues however those with MAP sensors will through a hissy fit
 
pgarner said:
leave the recirc valve until it splits - which it most likely will do.
if your fitting a induction kit then you will get an audible whoosh from the 007p.
early early 1.8t can have atmos BOVs fitted without any issues however those with MAP sensors will through a hissy fit
Click to expand...

How can i tell whether mine is the later MAP sensor model? Is there a VIN range i can check?

Cheers.
 
engine code is the easiest way. basically its the oldest of the oldest that dont have them
other way is to remove the wheel liner and you should see it
 
I've done a bit of digging and found my car doesn't have the MAP sensor which throws a fit with BOVs. I've got a Split-R to fit tonight and a few other goodies on the way.
 
The Split-R BOV went on in under a minute and sounds good, requiring zero adjustment. The car drives as per usual as far as i can tell but with a little extra tsssssssh when you lift off the loud pedal - which is nice.
 
Welcome matey, i remember my first turbo beast.....................they were the days take me back to 2001 lol
 
waynne said:
As far as silencers go I think my top choice is miltek.
Click to expand...

Bloomin pricey though!!!!

I can make my own system from mild steel but it's a long tedious task. I want a box i can't see too - the good people at Miltek only make boxes with polished twin tailpipes.

Might go for a DIY system (turbo back) and a Jetex box....?
 
shop around with milltek mate im sure they do the discreet tailpipes but as most want the pipes on show not many stock it, i did find them for the bora but a change of plan had me wanting them on veiw
 
pgarner said:
shop around with milltek mate im sure they do the discreet tailpipes but as most want the pipes on show not many stock it, i did find them for the bora but a change of plan had me wanting them on veiw
Click to expand...


Just had a look on Jetex and they do a rear box that looks about right for the job - £80.89! BARGAIN! The Miltek kit I've been looking at starts at £460 odd!
 
pgarner said:
wooo you audi boys are getting stung lol
res cat back was £330~ inc vat

jetex didnt do anything for the bora at the time :(
Click to expand...

Stung would be the understatement of this century mate!

I just downloaded a Milltek price list.... £850 for a turbo back non-res system :amazed:

Make one of those bodged up powerflow stainless systems look a whole lot more appealing!
 
You would be better finding a custom exhaust place and have it made to your specifications. Costs alot less, could end up with better material depending what they use of course, and usually get a very wide range of tail tips so you personalise the looks. Theres one just up the road frome but I think it's a little too far for you. Oh and welcome to the site ;)
 
I don't suppose any of you guys have had dealings with Powerflow....?

They claim to be able to remove your old system, build a new one to your spec and fit it in about 3 hours! All stainless and with dozens of silencer and tailpipe options.

Gotta be cheaper than Milltek too!
 
powerflow, like alot of custom exhaust makers, there are good and bad dealers.
some mandrel bend the pipes so they stay the same width all the way through whereas others crush bend them

i had no issues with mine on ma prelude and loz is happy with with his.
 
Just google 034EFI, Javed has all the answers for all Audis ( he has one of the fastest Audis in the US of A, and his firm- 034 EFI -is the best in the business IMO.
 
034 does have some good stuff but for an exhaust ?
the poor $-£ and add the cost of the shipping your talking silly money

and as for best in the business thats you opinion
 
pgarner said:
034 does have some good stuff but for an exhaust ?
the poor $-£ and add the cost of the shipping your talking silly money

and as for best in the business thats you opinion
Click to expand...

Over the years,I have bought 4 standalone ECUs from this firm, all fitted to high performance sports cars, not a problem, and easy as pie to tune. Prices as compared to the ones available in the UK for us in India, is cheaper.
I have no interest in this firm except that I find them to be the best value for money, and a set of extremely helpful people.
 
but think of the weight of an ECU.
like i say theyre good for alot of stuff but its the shipping that will cost him for the big stuff. then theres customs to think about
 
Just to let you all know iv solved the exhaust issue, for now at least.

Bought a length of 2.25" mild steel exhaust pipe.
Cut off the entire centre section including cat and resonator box and replaced with straight pipe (having welded the hanger on).

The result is a much throatier sound when under load, its not really any louder under normal driving conditions though - perfect.
 
waynne said:
Cool, have you noticed a power difference at all?
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Nah lol. But. It does spool up ALOT quicker, you can properly hear the turbo and you can tell there is alot less resistance in the system.
I think a half decent back-box would be the icing on the cake but i don't want the extra noise. When i finally get around to having her remapped i'll fit the proper dump valve fitting kit and swap my split-R bov to a total loss item and have it set up on a dyno.
I doubt it make anywhere like the power it did when it was new but i'll be interested to see either way.
 
waynne said:
Do you need a fitting kit? The Dump valve just connects into hoses itself.
Click to expand...

Im currently running a Forge Split-R which is a direct fit but if i want to run it as a conventional bov later on i'll need to blank off pipes and stuff.
Iv seen golfs with nice silicone hoses which relocate the bov to the front of the engine bay and do away with the recirculation stuff.
 
whos your mate said:
Im currently running a Forge Split-R which is a direct fit but if i want to run it as a conventional bov later on i'll need to blank off pipes and stuff.
Iv seen golfs with nice silicone hoses which relocate the bov to the front of the engine bay and do away with the recirculation stuff.
Click to expand...

the kit you mean is a cold side relocation kit;)
forge do 1 http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/media/Golf-Leon-A3 1.8t reloc kit fitting guide.pdf but it doesnt do away with the recirculation it just caps 1 end and moves it to just before the tb you can see in the pics in the link

hope this helps mate
 
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