Zwaf's Seat Ibiza mk4

As promised here are pictures of my not very much tuned Ibiza.

One month ago it was like this:

28062011118.jpg


Then I instaled this:


23062011115.jpg

That is Koni sport schocks and Platimex -40mm springs. Very pleased with it. If someone would like to read it I could make some kind of review after some more miles.


After instaling it looked like this:

26082011131w.jpg

Looks like wheel spacers would do justice for visual apearance?


Yes! It would:





04092011133.jpg


And one picture of work place:
04092011136.jpg




P.S. How come I can not make all pics big like those two in a midle? Can someone help with sugestion?
 
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Re: Made some pics with cell phone of my plane Ibiza mk4

Hi buddy i've sorted the pics for you.
What you need to do is before copying the image code make sure you have the image opened up on your screen rather than using the code when the pics are all in list form. You have to actually select one to view then copy the code.;)
 
Re: Made some pics with cell phone of my plane Ibiza mk4

Tank you very much, Turbonutter69!
Next time will do that way.
 
Re: Made some pics with cell phone of my plane Ibiza mk4

Thanks for sharing the pics, you've made a really good start on the project. What's next then?
 
Re: Made some pics with cell phone of my plane Ibiza mk4

Hi Wayne!
For some time I must be patient cause we need new kitchen in oure home.
So far have done an remap onto 132 HP and 300 Nm. Got cupra bushes also and those alloys are also this year aquisition.
When founds allow she will get bixenon (hid) with lences and uper model hubs. Need hubs cause planing on ATE calipers from TT 180 and 312 mm discs.
After that maybe some vertical flow fmic, custom exaust with downpipe and custom remap. Hopefully will reach 140-145 HP and maybe 320-340 Nm of torque.
My mapper saiz that is achievable with stock parts but I guess some more efficient fmic wont hurt and downpipe with biger bore could help on heat transfer and somewhat reduce stress on turbo.
Turbo is KKK KP39A.

P.S. My spelling is not always spot on. Hope you understand many of my funny improvisations. Especially with technical terms and expressions.
 
By the looks of the pictures you will get 10mm spacers on the back at a maximum. Fronts don't look like they have much room. All in all though a good start. I like to see someone start with suspension.

It'll probably benefit from better cooling (i.e. an intercooler). Get some strut braces front and rear as well to tighten things up.

P.S. I've moved this to the projects section. Also, don't worry about your spelling. If you're unsure just spell it how it sounds.
 
Thanks Prince!:)
Last 3 pics are with 20 mm spacers on both axles. Put it in the same size because i do not want to mess with "grip ratio" (here i really could use some good translator! :embarrest: )
In other words dont wanna to artificially increase just one side. For egsample- increasing rear wideness could be sensed like understeer. After that manny use cures like rear sway bars to decrease rear grip and maintain balance.
In my humble opinion sway bars are usefull tool, but in the end. When you do all you can do with springs and dampers and geometry and bushes then all you need to do is fine balancing with sways. Of course dont think i'm an smartass (smart donkey? :lol: ) Just thinking loud.

On other plans: dynamics of my works will be slow due to manny other things that got higher rank in life. For me it is in one hand frustrating, but in other hand it gives me time to deeply get familiar with a lot of things. My suspension right now is all i ever wished for! And trust me when i say that is not my first, or second, or even fifth iteration. But in the end i managed to get clue what is what and what to avoid because it is not my cup of tea.

In future i will read and reread tons of bad, semi good and good informations about it and eventually will understand what is logic and physics behind it.
You have youre first philosofer tuner! Hahaha!

Almost forget! Strut braces are something i will do! Lets delegate forces to suspension only and spare the chassis from flection.
Think that could be valuable and educational experience to see effects after stiffening the chassis.
 
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Looks good so far, but you should be able to get more than 130 hp from that engine easily standard, is it a PD engine? I would imagin it is....
 
Hi jarrus!
Yes it is pd engine. Despite common opinion that all PD engines are the same internally i gor some information that higher models got somewhat different solutions regarding intrnal lubrications and somewhat different fuel paths. Do not know how much this affect engine potential.
My maper say it is achievable around 150 HP without fear, and that is with full stock car. So I thought if i ad some fmic and biger downpipe that goal could be done with less stress on my not so big turbine.
Have read something on fmics and think some not to big vertical flow unit could be good for me because it should not put to much volume into system therefor turbine will not strugle to fill up the hole.
Going for biger turbo is not in my reach, to be honest.
 
So I guess yours is either the 90 or 110 model, good upgrade is injectors from a PD130 or PD150, they are larger as standard. Also the PD150 turbo is larger as standard and should be a straight swap then it's possible of 180-200 hp
 
we did not understand each other. :)
My engine IS pd. We rcognize pd100, pd130, pd150 and pd 160.
Mine is pd 100. It means pumpe duse engine with 101 hp.
90 and 110 hp engines are older generation. Power limit on pd 100 would be around 160 hp because of small injectors in first place and kp39a turbo in second place.
 
Hello mate
Your projects is going very well mate, keep it up and keep posting more pics. love the black Ibiza.
Next thing I would do is tint the windows, but as you do not have a chrome surroundings around your windows DO NOT go for black tint, spend a bit more money as they usual are a bit more expensive, and go for a slightly graphite/silver with a hint of mirror effect tint, trust me on that, black will look like e death caravan with no silver/chrome surroundings.

See here.
 
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Hello mate
Your projects is going very well mate, keep it up and keep posting more pics. love the black Ibiza.
Next thing I would do is tint the windows, but as you do not have a chrome surroundings around your windows DO NOT go for black tint, spend a bit more money as they usual are a bit more expensive, and go for a slightly graphite/silver with a hint of mirror effect tint, trust me on that, black will look like e death caravan with no silver/chrome surroundings.

See here.

I agree to a point. It's not just the surrounds you have to think about, it's things such as wheels. Not having everything black is best as there no break up in the colour. Black tints and black surrounds looks good (just like the X5 in the link above), but because the wheels are silver it breaks it up.

P.S. I've moved your helpful post to it's very own thread. Nice one!
 
Cheers Prince ;)
Well, it all comes to the own preferences on the end I think, some likes where car is completely black from the top to the bottom, where majority don't.
Zawf's Ibiza would look great in either 35 or 20 black as long there are chrome details around the windows etc, no matter what is the color of the wheels, but having a black car with chrome details and black tint, the Zawf's silver wheels will make a better ....lets say harmony, so for this car Sun-Gard Air type film would be a very good/best choice.
Windows/glass is an integrated part of the cars body like a one piece, wheels are the parts which keep the one piece/body moving :)
Black tint on cars with no chrome detail looks very good when car color is bright, such as white or silver.
 
After that from visual mods I would change the mirrors to chrome ones matt or gloss with the indicators or without and taking all the badges off inc. the front grill replaced with the blank black one ;)
 
After that from visual mods I would change the mirrors to chrome ones matt or gloss with the indicators or without and taking all the badges off inc. the front grill replaced with the blank black one ;)

Keep the mirrors OEM. Those fake M3 rep chrome ones are chavtastic.
 
You don't need to go for chrome, you can go carbon if you are disgusted of chrome, but remember that not only the M3 had characteristic chrome mirrors so not necessary it need to be compared to guys doing a cheap and poor M3 replicas/copy.
audi-rs41.jpg

Looks beautiful
 
The M3 didn't have chrome mirrors. But the usual chrome mirrors are also M3 reps. I hate M3 reps so much!

I love carbon though!

I didn't knew that, I assumed that it had chrome mirrors when you said that and that there is lots of bad replicas as I've seen a lot 3 series my self with badly looking chrome mirrors ;)

Carbon - agreed, now just Zawf needs to approve it and pay for it :):):)
Would you prefer them with a small indicator stripes just on the bottom of the mirror the way they are almost invisible ;) ? I would go for with, but really tiny LED stripe indicator hidden behind a black tint so invisible when not switched on..
 
Hi mates!
Glad you like black Ibiza! I sure am in love with her! :)
Other day I went to my best man, who is one of most skillfull drivers I meet (the other one is myself! :lol: ) and give him to drive.
He was astonished! Said few days earlier he was in new BMW and altough it was good ride he can not compare fun factor with my remaped and Koni'ed nonexclusive, no "mewanna effect", humble looking Ibiza. Since he is honest and direct guy, that is an nice compliment to all my effort how to make practical fun car. For reference - we both prefer B roads where Vmax is not all it matters.

Now to the point - tinted windows, stealth or no stealth look, debadge or not:

Have read and reread your thoughts. Guess, silver side mirrors are not my cup of tea. (NHF?) windows are OEM with some greenish look and so far have changed my mind several times about tinting. Oure regulations do not alow to tint front glass and front drivers and codrivers glass - just rear window and rear side glasses.
Debadging? Some photoshop could be usefull, but I am caveman with computers. My wife saiz i am caveman during lunch also! Hahahaha! (kiding!)
carbon look sheets? Have some thoughts about put it on "B" carrier (do not know if that term is understandable - it is translated from Croatian. Part of car between front doors and rest of the car. On 4 door car it would be between doors.) and mirrors.
I will see what and how next. Primary goal is to make mechanic more suited for throwing around b roads. Look is close next on priority list.
 
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De-badgeing the back would be a good start. It just gives it that smooth look. I like to keep the manufacturer's badges though to show I'm proud. I wouldn't bother with that carbon wrap stuff because IMO it looks exactly what it is... Fake.

So what's next on the list?
 
Next on the list is front upper strut brace. After that when found allow it I'go for bixenon HID with lences.
 
I believe they still will be road illegal in UK, or not????

I don't know in UK! Here is still legal. Oure legislators wrote that lights must be white or yelowish, never blue or blueish or other collors and should not make blind drivers in oposite direction. All of that is under control of man working in MOT station.
So, in Cro you can have 4300 and 5000 hids, even tolerate 6000 in case if you're lights don't make blind other drivers.
 
You can HID kits for as little as £50 for my BMW. It must depend on the kind of bulb your headlights use.

Over here (UK) they are an MOT failure unless the car is supposed to have them from factory.
 
You can HID kits for as little as £50 for my BMW. It must depend on the kind of bulb your headlights use.

Over here (UK) they are an MOT failure unless the car is supposed to have them from factory.

I can also buy hid kit here for similar price.In this case the cost goes up for projectors-lences (don't know real term for that part, but hope you can understand what I mean by "projector") and labour which is not very simple. Man opens up your egsisting light (that is not intended for opening) and install projectors and HID inside, paint it black and then seals it up so you have no water mist inside after. Know many happy customers and they report that job is done in pro manor and no water inside lights altough they are opened for instaling. Also, the light beam is very good with "Z" shape and lights do not make oposite drivers blind. That last point is very important to me.
 
Today have stiffened rear schock more. After first setup i stiffened them to 1,75 rounds from full soft, but rear end seems to lack some more control in rebound.
Today made them full stiff and after initial B road driving think I could reverse for about 1/4 turn. Will see after some more driving. Soon will install winter tyres and 15" wheels so if I don't do it before that, testing will be shifted for next year spring time.
Also friend of mine give front strut bar from his Golf GTI mk2 which he does not own anymore. It would be an base for tailoring strut brace for Ibiza.
Also gave me an front lower brace. Does anybody had that thing on car? What are pluses or minuses?
Lower brace also does not fit, but it is doable after simple cuting and welding.

What is your opinions on lower strut brace only and lower strut brace in conjuction with upper one?
 
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Today have stiffened rear schock more. After first setup i stiffened them to 1,75 rounds from full soft, but rear end seems to lack some more control in rebound.
Today made them full stiff and after initial B road driving think I could reverse for about 1/4 turn. Will see after some more driving. Soon will install winter tyres and 15" wheels so if I don't do it before that, testing will be shifted for next year spring time.
Also friend of mine give front strut bar from his Golf GTI mk2 he does not own anymore. It would be an base for tailoring strut brace for Ibiza.
Also gave me an front lower brace. Does anybody had that thing on car? What are pluses or minuses?
Lower brace also does not fit, but it is doable after simple cuting and welding.

What is your opinions on lower strut brace only and lower strut brace in conjuction with upper one?

Myself and T9 run lower braces and they do play a good role in stiffening up the chassis more. You don't have to use upper and lower together but it will help. Strut braces also help to re-enforce the strut which is only a good thing.

If you can get the lower brace on, then go for it. What sort of design is it?
 
Hi Prince!
Lower brace is just straight bar with cups for nuts in the ends. Will post picture later - right now can't do it.
Both pieces got some self adhesive stamp on it with "xxxxxsport" written - just can't read the whole word anymore.
 
Hi Prince!
Lower brace is just straight bar with cups for nuts in the ends. Will post picture later - right now can't do it.
Both pieces got some self adhesive stamp on it with "xxxxxsport" written - just can't read the whole word anymore.

A good lower brace design really should a be 'X' shape. Here is what mine looks like:
IMG_7538640x480.jpg


IMG_7543640x480.jpg


There is definitely no harm in trying it though as with a FWD car you want to stiffen up the front anyway.
 
Lower one is egsactly like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMP-FRONT-LOWER-RED-STRUT-BRACE-VW-GOLF-MK1-GTi-ALL-/180647301786?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a0f6b129a#ht_1918wt_1037

It seems it is for mk1, not mk2.


And aparently the one I thought it is front for mk2 seems to be rear strut for mk2. It looks egsactly like that one:http://www.ebay.de/itm/Domstrebe-Golf-2-Hinten-/190595788887?pt=DE_Autoteile&fits=Model%3AGolf+II&hash=item2c6064f057#ht_500wt_1287



Is there any use for tailoring front brace out of rear one regarding the material stifness or something else I am not aware of?
 
Uper front cost here in Croatia just above 100 Pounds. Do not know cost for lower one.
Hope I can do cheaper and satisfyingly good one this way...but who knows?!
 
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