Wiring loom

Izzy

Wrench Pro
Points
21
Car
Peugeot 406 2.1HDI
Where is the wiring loom for the 406 found..
I mean I want the entry +12V one..
this is to connect my amp and headunit to different fuses in case of blownoff...
can anyone help me...

I can see there is one underneath the steering wheel..
near to the headlight adjustment switch..

adn one fusebox found under the hood...
can anyone one suggest me how to make the wiring for the radio...

I want it to be such that when it displays Economy Mode in the dash, There should not be current through the headunit and amp etc..
 
What year is your car?

Oups forgot to mention that lil bit of detail..
it's a 2002 one..
guess that it's using a new BSI and hence a new wiring loom...
it was that bit of detail that i needed to clarify..::p
 
Yep, mine was a 02 model (despite registered in 01, even more confusing!) and the multiplex wiring can be confusing.

I found the built in audio to be very good indeed but mine had the Harman-Kardon/jbl setup so I never upgraded.

TBH I'd take a direct +ve and -ve from the battery via a fusible link and complete circumnavigate the BSI.
 
YEAH..
It's about the BSI thing..
that's to shut down the current in case it's in economy mode...

but is the multiplex wire so confusing..?
I wanna see if I can get a direct connection from the multiplex itself..:D

because surely this has to pass through the BSi unit also...
Is it HDi fun...?
 
Unsure about the Headunit but for the amp you want to give it it's own power feed from the Battery and Earth it to the boot. If you wired the remote wire properly to the Headunit then that will switch off whenever you turn the headunit off.
 
YEAH..
It's about the BSI thing..
that's to shut down the current in case it's in economy mode...

but is the multiplex wire so confusing..?
I wanna see if I can get a direct connection from the multiplex itself..:D

because surely this has to pass through the BSi unit also...
Is it HDi fun...?

The BSI does far more than force the ECONOMY MODE ACTIVE message and shut down auxilliary equipment.

The BSI deals with just about everything, including but not limited to: lights, indicators, A/C and climate management, wipers, mirror heaters, windows, locking, cruise control. The electric seat motors are separate due to their huge current draw.

TN69 has a very good proposal: run the HU from the switched auxilliary and give the power amps a dedicated unswitched supply (this MUST be fused as close as possible to the battery +ve terminal). The HU will send a remote command to the power amps upon switch on, and again on switch off.

Trying to run the power amps from the BSI will quite likely overload it. The 'mux wiring is there to save weight and space. And it works supremely well. By all accounts it's very reliable.
 
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The BSI does far more than force the ECONOMY MODE ACTIVE message and shut down auxilliary equipment.

The BSI deals with just about everything, including but not limited to: lights, indicators, A/C and climate management, wipers, mirror heaters, windows, locking, cruise control. The electric seat motors are separate due to their huge current draw.

Heyy, I knew about that but thanks for reminding me but the problem was that my battery got down twice because of the headunit continued to play even in the economy mode. guess that it's not from the multiplex one because it's all aside and there a new connection from I don't know where in the car to power the HU..::sad2:

And guess that, the amp gonna get the BSI loady...:p
so better get the leads from the battery itself..
thanks for the point guys...(+ fused)
 
I was also targeting to have a voltage regulator for the car.
so as to have a better distribution of voltage through the car..

they also say that idling is smoother and there's a lot more improvements over headunits and amps etc..

Is is worth to buy it..?
 
I was also targeting to have a voltage regulator for the car.
so as to have a better distribution of voltage through the car..

they also say that idling is smoother and there's a lot more improvements over headunits and amps etc..

Is is worth to buy it..?

I wouldn't bother. The alternator is a 3 phase device anyway, with an on-board rectifier so even at idle the regulation is very good.

As for smoothing the idle, well, that might well be slightly beneficial in a little 1.0 litre Corsa with a straight 180 degree +/- single phase alternator and a three cylinder engine.

The battery itself acts as a massive electrolytic capacitor and smooths out the voltage spikes. In reactive circuits with uneven load (such as power amps and their internal PSUs) the current draw will lag behind the applied voltage.

The BSI itself utilises the battery as a reference voltage so I'd do little more than run some traditional thickish wires to supply the power amps.

If the voltage, current and supply impedance was so fragile the BSI would kick up big time.

Peugeot 406s are loaded with kit post 2000 and the electrical system it more than up to dealing with it (and more that you fit).
 
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