Which is better large discs or performance pads

T9 man

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I would be inclined to replace the brake fluid for a performance version, something that works well at both cold and hot temperatures and that the fluid has been bled through properly in the correct manner. Also, before you do this, have the brake callipers checked to make sure that none of the pistons have seized and therefore pushing onto the disc in an uneven way. I have had this before and know what it does. Also, get the brake pads checked to make sure that they are not extra hard racing versions which some people mistakenly believe will stop on a sixpence, but as we all know this will only happen if they are hot and not cold.
 

TCJBOLDIE

Torque King
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T9 is spot on with his advice .
If you are upgrading your pads check the heat /temperature operating range as in a road driven car you want good pad grip/friction at cold temps so it is not so good to have track spec pads that only give the best retardation when they are hot as they will take longer to stop when not up to their best hot operating range.

Here is a link that may interest some ??
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?p=4229833
 
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HDi fun

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Buckinghamshire UK
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Passat 2.0 TDi
The fluid is being changed today.

I've supplied DOT4 synthetic low viscosity stuff; same as I used in the BMW.

It's definitely not the pad compound as the second touch is sufficient to stand the car on it's nose even when stone cold. One light touch at 30mph is not enough to get a hard hot pad up to temperature. I have experienced hard pads at low temperature and this is a totally different kettle of fish. Literally push pedal down 3 inches for 1/2 second and brakes start to bite. Release and immediately re-apply and the bite is right at the top of the pedal travel.

I am convinced it's air in the system as a sticky caliper would drag and cause the wheel to heat up.
 

Yugguy

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Going to replace my rear discs and pads at the weekend as the offside outer pad doesn't seem to be hitting the disc fully, and it's grooved the top part of it.

Got Eicher discs and pads for 30 quid delivered.

I'll strip down the whole thing and give it a good clean out, make sure the piston movement is ok and the sliders and clear and copper greased.

I find working on brakes quite satisfying as it's a relatively easy job with big rewards - even my decent indy would want nigh on 100 quid to do pads and discs at the back.
 

HDi fun

TC ModFather
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Passat 2.0 TDi
Be careful with Eicher. I had these fitted all round on my 406 and they never settled properly. Ended up removing them after 2000 miles (ample time to bed in) and fitting ATE OEM discs and pads. Far better and they settled within 100 miles. Euro took back the Eichers and gave me a FULL refund!!
 
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TCJBOLDIE

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JB Starion
HDI if you fitted the SPEED BLEEDERS I have mentioned that I have on my car it is so easy to bleed the brakes properly.I prefer to do this myself as I will be the one that will get hurt if the brakes don't work due to air in the lines as I don't have a lot of confidence in a lot of workshops out there.
Near enough is not good enough for me.
 

Yugguy

Torque King
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Rugby (expat Preston lad)
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Merc C220Cdi Elegan
Well I fitted them at the weekend. Looking at the TEENY rear piston it made me think that what you really want for better braking is increased piston power.

I also found out why the wear had been so uneven. The runners on the caliper carrier where the pads sit were caked with deposits so the pads weren't moving properly.

So, a tip for when you are changing pads, give the carriers a good scrub with a wire grease and copper grease on the runners.
 

HDi fun

TC ModFather
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From
Buckinghamshire UK
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Passat 2.0 TDi
HDI if you fitted the SPEED BLEEDERS I have mentioned that I have on my car it is so easy to bleed the brakes properly.I prefer to do this myself as I will be the one that will get hurt if the brakes don't work due to air in the lines as I don't have a lot of confidence in a lot of workshops out there.
Near enough is not good enough for me.
Same here. I am ultra fussy about such things. Thankfully my local workshop understands my obsession with perfect braking performance. They have run three litres of fluid through and bled them with pressure/vacuum & manually to be certain.
 

Yugguy

Torque King
Points
507
From
Rugby (expat Preston lad)
Car
Merc C220Cdi Elegan
HDI if you fitted the SPEED BLEEDERS I have mentioned that I have on my car it is so easy to bleed the brakes properly.I prefer to do this myself as I will be the one that will get hurt if the brakes don't work due to air in the lines as I don't have a lot of confidence in a lot of workshops out there.
Near enough is not good enough for me.
Howdo.

I'm guessing they're good then, I've never had that much success with one-man bleeding systems, so I usually end up getting the missus to do the brake pedal while I do the bleed screw.
 

TCJBOLDIE

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Points
652
From
Brisbane
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JB Starion
Howdo.

I'm guessing they're good then, I've never had that much success with one-man bleeding systems, so I usually end up getting the missus to do the brake pedal while I do the bleed screw.
IMO yes they are :D

You won't have to yell at the wife "push down ,up down harder, hold it there"etc and have the neighbors wondering what the heck are you doing :eek: :lol:
 
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