What Turbo psi should i be running??

3

306Livingston

Wrench Pro
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26
Location
Livingston, scotland
Car
Peugeot 306 1.6 XS
I have a Pug 306 1.6 it is standard but have a T28 turbo for it was wondering what psi i should have it running at without blowing the engine. also if anyone could tell me what psi it should be running at in a standard Saxo VTS
 
With standard rods and pistons you want a small turbo (that runs nearly constantly) and operate it in a similar way to Volvo's LPT models. As suggested above 6psi (about atmospheric) is about it.
 
bout 17.

roughly 14.5 psi to a bar

haha cheers for that Hdi, sorry mate im not sure i would say have a look for a smaller one such as off the punto gt, reanult 5 etc
 
1 bar is 14.7 p.s.i. You can't just pick up a turbo, stick it on the car and guesstimate what boost to run. Apart from internal engine structure, correct compression pressure etc, your engine will need to be burning the right amount of fuel. Too lean and you will melt pistons, too rich and you will induce bore wash.
To gauge where things are going you need to run diagnostics on the engine to check for knock [detonation], A.F.R's [air/fuel ratios] E.G.T's [exhaust gas temps]. There is much more to this but it would take ages to write and i'm in the process of doing a write up on ring gaps and bearings etc at the mo.
I would advise that you do lots of learning, plenty of reading correct material and that totally discludes listening to your mates down the pub. ;)
I sincerely hope that you achieve your aim but be aware of the consequences of producing more power, your car will need to be able to stop too, and handle better.
 
Country Bumpkin said:
1 bar is 14.7 p.s.i. You can't just pick up a turbo, stick it on the car and guesstimate what boost to run. Apart from internal engine structure, correct compression pressure etc, your engine will need to be burning the right amount of fuel. Too lean and you will melt pistons, too rich and you will induce bore wash.
To gauge where things are going you need to run diagnostics on the engine to check for knock [detonation], A.F.R's [air/fuel ratios] E.G.T's [exhaust gas temps]. There is much more to this but it would take ages to write and i'm in the process of doing a write up on ring gaps and bearings etc at the mo.
I would advise that you do lots of learning, plenty of reading correct material and that totally discludes listening to your mates down the pub. ;)
I sincerely hope that you achieve your aim but be aware of the consequences of producing more power, your car will need to be able to stop too, and handle better.
Click to expand...

I'm pleased that someone else recognises that you can't just 'add' a turbo in the way you might 'add' an air freshener.

Personally I'd just buy a car that is most of the way you want it to be in the first place.

Then again, if you're only running minimal boost pressures, basically just ensuring proper cylinder charging with each induction stroke the MAF might be able to give the ECU enough information just to allow it to sort out the fuelling.

The only other problem is likely to be exhaust back pressure.
 
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Blowing the engine is one thing. But I recommend to you pay attention about clutch, driveshafts, chassis components, brakes as well.
 
Blowing the engine is one thing. But I recommend to you pay attention about clutch, driveshafts, chassis components, brakes as well.


It's good advice. If you're only looking to build up the torque curve by maximising cylinder charging (with a low boost/atmo ratio) then standard brakes should be fine.

Obviously, whatever braking system you employ, it's good practice to make sure it's working as well as possible, even if it remains standard. Whether or not you increase the cars capacity for acceleration.

There are some very good aftermarket disc and pad upgrades, but there are also some very good OEM setups which work very well indeed.

Don't ignore brake fluid condition - it does deteriorate over time. A full system bleed, replacing ALL the brake fluid is a good thing to do every year or two at the minimum.
 
my advice would be that adding a turbo to non turbo engine is not efficient...its more efficient to buy turbo engine and do a engine swap...couse when adding turbo u need to change internal parts(if u want it to be reliable to some point)lower the compresion beacouse of premature ignition,and etc etc etc...even if u knew to do all this by your self its expensive..at the end youll spend a lot of money,and your engine will never be as reliable and durable as fabric turbo engine...
this is what i would do...
 
you can get a pug t16 engine, that's already turboed, but I would start with an XU iron block engine, even if it's non turbo is it still adequateto be made forced inducted
 
306Livingston said:
I have a Pug 306 1.6 it is standard but have a T28 turbo for it was wondering what psi i should have it running at without blowing the engine. also if anyone could tell me what psi it should be running at in a standard Saxo VTS
Click to expand...
A safe pressure would be 5 PSIG, which means that you will be running 5 PSI over your ambient Atmospheric pressure, which if you are at sea level is 100KPa or 14.7 PSI
5PSI showing on your gauge is more than enough to ensure proper cylinder filling without stressing the engine.
 
also something to mention, 14 psi on a gt15 turbo is different to a gt25 running 14 psi,

boost pressure isn't the be all and end all....
 
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