What oil to use in my Fiesta ST 1.6 turbo.

[Druidoak60]

Right now I'm stock, but come spring I'll be upgrading to a big turbo, BA intercooler/bigger tubing, bigger radiator, HKS BOV and CPE Ram Air intake. I have a list of other parts that if they work that in total should get me close to 400hp. A long with a Dizzy tune. You all across the pond have more experience with small displacement turbo builds, so I hope you have an idea of what kind of oil will live in this motor. I've look at Liquid Molly, it looks good but what do you all say?

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

IMO any top quality full synthetic of the grade recommended by the owners manual would be what I would choose to use.

 

[Druidoak60]

IMO any top quality full synthetic of the grade recommended by the owners manual would be what I would choose to use.

OK Sounds good

 

[Fabia17]

Stick with top quality fully synthetic oil, what do the race teams use, or rally teams? Gives you good indication. If you are extracting that much power, you will need to reduce your service intervals by at least a half. Perhaps even down to 6000km between changes, especially if you are pushing the car hard frequently.

 

[Druidoak60]

Stick with top quality fully synthetic oil, what do the race teams use, or rally teams? Gives you good indication. If you are extracting that much power, you will need to reduce your service intervals by at least a half. Perhaps even down to 6000km between changes, especially if you are pushing the car hard frequently.

Thanks, yea I figured change interval would be shorter.

 

[Druidoak60]

Ok while doing some research I came across the NOACK rating, So this is mostly in regards to preventing carbon build up on the valves in direct injection engines. NOACK rating is the evaporative properties of oil. Three different sources claim that a rating of 7 or less is best for DI engines. So something else to delve into.

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

Ok while doing some research I came across the NOACK rating, So this is mostly in regards to preventing carbon build up on the valves in direct injection engines. NOACK rating is the evaporative properties of oil. Three different sources claim that a rating of 7 or less is best for DI engines. So something else to delve into.

I realise that the valve overlap as well as crankcase fumes that are fed back into the inlet manifold and that over time leads to reduction of engine efficiency by allowing carbon to build up in the manifold and ports of both port injected and DI engines but I can't see any major reductions in build up using the oil you researched BUT always open to learn new things.

Am told that some manufacturers have woken up to this problem and are installing additional port injectors to DI engines to help keep ports and valve backs cleaner.

 

[Fabia17]

Ok while doing some research I came across the NOACK rating, So this is mostly in regards to preventing carbon build up on the valves in direct injection engines. NOACK rating is the evaporative properties of oil. Three different sources claim that a rating of 7 or less is best for DI engines. So something else to delve into.

If you are concerned about this build of carbon and are modifying your engine, or have some spare funds, I'd recommend fitting a multi injector water/methanol kit.

These function at set boosts and will effectively steam clean your valves, ports and combustion chambers, whilst providing more power by releasing locked energy from your fuel by reducing intake temperature.

To be very honest, I don't know how many miles/km you need to cover, or what driving cycles to get so bunged up with carbon, but if you are getting the engine really hot I would think combustion heat would keep the carbon build up under control. Unlike sitting in traffic and only doing a couple of miles /km to and from work or shopping. Just my personal thoughts.

 

[Druidoak60]

If you are concerned about this build of carbon and are modifying your engine, or have some spare funds, I'd recommend fitting a multi injector water/methanol kit.

These function at set boosts and will effectively steam clean your valves, ports and combustion chambers, whilst providing more power by releasing locked energy from your fuel by reducing intake temperature.

To be very honest, I don't know how many miles/km you need to cover, or what driving cycles to get so bunged up with carbon, but if you are getting the engine really hot I would think combustion heat would keep the carbon build up under control. Unlike sitting in traffic and only doing a couple of miles /km to and from work or shopping. Just my personal thoughts.

I will be using both aux fueling and meth injection, recommended by my tuner for the power level I'm trying to reach. I'm thinking the Noack will not be a big thing. I've never run a DI engine, so just trying to check all my boxes.

 

[Druidoak60]

I realise that the valve overlap as well as crankcase fumes that are fed back into the inlet manifold and that over time leads to reduction of engine efficiency by allowing carbon to build up in the manifold and ports of both port injected and DI engines but I can't see any major reductions in build up using the oil you researched BUT always open to learn new things.

Am told that some manufacturers have woken up to this problem and are installing additional port injectors to DI engines to help keep ports and valve backs cleaner.

According to my research, both Toyota and Ford are working on that.

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

If they end up doing that then any good injector cleaner used ad per instructions will certainly help keep the injectors and the inlet runners and ports downstream of them much cleaner.

 

[Druidoak60]

I'll be adding a 4 port aux fuel system to my ST, it's about $1400, plus I need it to reach my HP goals.

 

[Beeryy2]

If you are concerned about this build of carbon and are modifying your engine, or have some spare funds, I'd recommend fitting a multi injector water/methanol kit.

These function at set boosts and will effectively steam clean your valves, ports and combustion chambers, whilst providing more power by releasing locked energy from your fuel by reducing intake temperature.

To be very honest, I don't know how many miles/km you need to cover, or what driving cycles to get so bunged up with carbon, but if you are getting the engine really hot I would think combustion heat would keep the carbon build up under control. Unlike sitting in traffic and only doing a couple of miles /km to and from work or shopping. Just my personal employee software thoughts.

exactly, I will do it, thanks