Shaved door handles

MickieH

Torque Junkie
Points
27
Location
UK, Nuneaton
Car
Probe 2.5L 24v V6
I know that TVR have no door handles on some of their models with a release switch under the wing mirror, which would indicate to me that they would have to be legal to be sold in the UK likle that.

However I keep hearing from some, that shaved door handles are illegal. :confused:

What do you think as regards legality?
 
Nothing at all illegal with removing the door handles. It's been done thousands of times over the years.

That settles it then . . .

. . . plus I've already removed the locks and door handles today :D

The Probe's door handles do present a bit of work though as they're on the trailing edge of the door, with a recess in the rear panel for access, so I'll have to fill them both in I guess to get the desired effect.

Not as easy as some.
 
Post up some pics. I'd love to see your efforts. :D

OK, well here's the doors minus locks and handles

DSC00771.jpg


DSC00788.jpg


The black marker is for areas that need attention before spraying. Most should be sorted with high build primer, but there are a few dings here and there.

I'll be having a go at filling these hopefully, this weekend, so I'll take pics as always so you can see how it goes :D
 
I might even turn this into an article for the main site if you don't mind. Get lots of pics for us.
 
I might even turn this into an article for the main site if you don't mind. Get lots of pics for us.

Yeah, of course, that would be great, especially if it will help anyone.

I've got tons of pics from before I stripped the car, to it's almost shell state right now, so I'll keep taking them and post them up here for ya ;)
 
Have you thought of a plan to smooth the door handles?
Are you going to weld a plate in or something similar?

I thought of welding plates, but decided against that as I don't want to warp the thin metal.

I'm planning on putting some fibreglass matting behind the door lock and building it up a little then finishing with normal body filler.

As for the handles, I'm going to use the matting and fibreglass filler, but first I'll have to use something to hold the filler in place.

My old dentist actually gets the credit for this idea :lol:

Going to drill some holes in the handle apertures and put some self tappers in some of them so that they will sit just below the final level, then use the fibreglass filler, and finally body filler. I will be treating any exposed metal first before filling so should be fine.

Hopefully the 'pins' will help secure the filler in place and stop it from moving.

Sounds a bit barbaric, but hopefully should work. :lol:

What do you think?
 
TBH most would weld a plate there the grind down the welds and then add a dash of filler. It shouldn't affect the door that much.
All I'd say is give it a go. You won't know if it'll work until you try buddy.
 
I've only got an arc welder, and I think that would be too powerful to do what I need to do, so filler it will be.

A plate would be better as I'm not fussy on the thought of having a big lump of filler in there, but the fibreglass stuff should be strong enough I rekon.

We'll see how it looks once it's done and sanded to shape.
 
I might change my mind yet :lol:

Actually thinking about it, I DO have a spare door in the garage . . .

. . . I might have a practice with the welder and see what happens.

If it turns out ok, then I might just do it that way instead. ;)

We'll see.
 
I've seen some companies use lead to build up the metal work. Not ideal for weight reduction but quite easy to work with.
 
i would agree with TN weld a thin plate over the top and just a skim of filler.

not sure if the arc welder would be too much as dont really play with welders much but if you were too take your time and do it as a lot of spot welds and allowing the metal to cool between each one then you might get away with it
 
I'll soon find out - I'll test it on my spare door when I get the chance and see how it goes.

If it doesn't blow holes in it, I'll go with plating rather than filling.
 
you can use solenoids in the locking mechanism to "pop" the doors open remotely with a fob or like Mickey said with a button under the wing mirror as TVR used
 
Oh I see that is quite cool! So I suppose if you have a flat battery you are stuffed then.
 
That's why you'd normally leave the boot lock on.
Unless of course in some cases you can't get through from the boot... Then your really stuffed.;):lol:
 
My mate as a fail safe put a pull cord under the front bumper so atleast if his battery did go flat he could pop the bonnet;)
 
That's right, I'm having release solenoids which will operate from a button under the wing mirrors, like the TVR's, but also by remote from my alarm.

I'm leaving the rear lock in place, so I'll always be able to climb through if really needed, although I am looking to fit an emergency release cable too.

At the moment it's easy to get in though . . .

. . . the rear quarter windows are upstairs in the spare room :lol:

The seal had gone on them so I took them out, and they're staying out until the respray's done.
 
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