Rattling noise

The fuel rail is holding huge pressure. If you don't know how to de-pressurise this then don't even start.

I don't know how to do this either.

Professional specialist with knowledge of PSA's HDi engines is a must for this one.
 
finally gat it to a garage and I told them to change the injector...
at the same time, they will check the turbo charger also...
 
finally....
I'm sure paul will say the same thing...

they should sort it all out, I'd get them to pressure check your boost pipe as well
 
Finally - (yes, P did say the exact same thing :) )

Jarrus is 100% correct; the induction system should, at the very least, be looked over.

A boost leak is not particularly likely, but, then again, nor is a fuel leak around injector seals (and since you have one of those, why would other issues not occur??)

You might as well take advantage of the professional garage time for which you are paying and sort out any other underlying issues.

Good luck - you've taken the right decision in my estimation.
 
NO Leaking..Fine

but they said that the place where the screw is has been damaged..
need to draw the hole for the screw again...

sry, i don't have the exact terms to use....
 
YES that's it...

they are re-tapping the hole and gonna fit it again....
 
Ok, Everything is fine..
And the latter is lot more smoother than before..
but, I noticed that there lacks some power and the latter is still purging out black smoke...not as before but it's still there...
do I need to check the EGR..?
 
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taking out the intake manifold..
thats surely loads of work...

no it's not a boost leak...
turbo has been throughly checked...

it's like some kinda lazy acceleration....
 
In fact, they retapped the 4th injector also because it was loosing combustion pressure...
and after that the acceleration became lazy...:(
 
They certainly shouldn't chuck out black soot. The lazy acceleration is subjective. HDi 110 engines aren't the fastest around but they should give strong acceleration in all gears with minimal turbo delay. Silly stuff - air filter clean?

I might have asked before: Any warning lights, or any messages on the MFD?
 
Yeah I would say the same really,
when was it last serviced? I mean when were all the filters and all the fluids replaced?

I would still have a look in the inlet manifold cause you'd be surprised at how much crap builds up over time, especially if it's not driven hard once in a while,
it does seem like a lot of work, but the best way to check first it to have a look though were the pipe of the intercooler connects, if it's really small then you need to clean it out and your performance will return,
 
Ok, there's no warning light..
everything seems pretty fine...

but compared to before, acceleration is not the same...

Ok, jarrus..
am gnna check this out....

and the black smoke, does it in some way affects the turbo...?
 
Black smoke can be caused by a number of things. I still suspect the turbo to be honest. Especially since you say that it's down on power
 
Failing turbos can also give this symptom. Basically the engine is running on diesel plus its own engine oil.

Air filter and MAF needs checking. Although I'm surprised there's no message on the central MFD.
 
Most of the problems sorted out except that the engine is producing black smoke...
guess it's because I got the EGR disconnected as it produced even more smoke when the valve was connected...it's stuck I think...

next was to replace the cam driven water pump by an electric one..
so as to provide better cooling of the engine...

is it worth for the HDi because i noticed that temperature quickly reached 90 C and stayed as such...

this is why I want to upgrade the water pump...
is is worth..?
 
Most of the problems sorted out except that the engine is producing black smoke...
guess it's because I got the EGR disconnected as it produced even more smoke when the valve was connected...it's stuck I think...

next was to replace the cam driven water pump by an electric one..
so as to provide better cooling of the engine...

is it worth for the HDi because i noticed that temperature quickly reached 90 C and stayed as such...

this is why I want to upgrade the water pump...
is is worth..?

I wouldn't bother. 90 degrees is optimal for most engines anyway. My remapped 2.2 ran at 90 all the time. The quick warm up is a good thing. If you're worried about heat then fit an oil temperature gauge. My 2.2 had one as standard and these do tell you more about the engine's true status than coolant temperature alone.
 
Hello again.
am sorry if i keep disturbing you peoples...
but, the car is not starting now...

the starter is turning, but the engine is not...!
I went to a wedding and it went on fine but it didn't want to start upon returning home...
it seems like the injector are not firing diesel..i think...

or is it that the ECU may be dead or any fuse..??
please help...

will fitting the ECU of another 2.0 HDi engine to mine solve the problem if the ECU is faulty...?

or any other cause you guys can suggest me for the problem...

also, on the dash, when I turn the keys, it displays 0 and then the actual number for the milleage...which was not so before..

please, any suggestion..?
 
of course there's diesel...

kinda some electrical problems i guess...!
 
ehé, it's solved... :p
the fuse of the fuel pump was faulty...

just gat it short circuited until I replace it...

HA, i needed to remove the pump and test it directly from the battery to ensure that it's working fine..
YES, it's lot's of work involved to unbolt that...
 
This must be the rear (tank mounted) pump as the high pressure pump for the fuel injector rack is driven by the camshaft belt.

Something else to consider when you replace the fuel filter (which is mounted in a black circular 'bucket' on top of the engine) is to partially fill the filter housing with Forte Diesel Treatment and have a good intensive clean at startup.
 
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Was about to say, the main pump in in the cam belt, the one in the tank is just a lift pump to make sure the main one is always primed

and put the forte in as well, it's great stuff :) along with a little diesel in there just so it has some to turn over on
 
Sorry again if I ask too many questions...

but, I have my engine spitting small amount of oil upon high revolutions...
I think that it comes from the turbo and it do cuts itself off if revved too high...
engine will start again after some 5mins..

there is also some kind of heating effect smoke coming at the back of the manifold
when the engine cuts itself off...I also do get the engine management light also but goes away after a few times.

NB: I removed the catalyser also...

can anyone help me...though the car is running fine..
but only wish to clarify those bits of doubt...
 
Sorry again if I ask too many questions...

but, I have my engine spitting small amount of oil upon high revolutions...
I think that it comes from the turbo and it do cuts itself off if revved too high...
engine will start again after some 5mins..

there is also some kind of heating effect smoke coming at the back of the manifold
when the engine cuts itself off...I also do get the engine management light also but goes away after a few times.

NB: I removed the catalyser also...

can anyone help me...though the car is running fine..
but only wish to clarify those bits of doubt...

That's disappointing to hear after you've got your car working correctly.

Check the fuel filter - it's in a small bucket on top of the cylinder head. Replace it.

Also the MAF sensor should be checked.

Very simply - oil level. If it's over the max mark on the dipstick the drain out an refill with the correct amount (4-4.5 litres for your car)

If problem remains then please do get back to us - we'll do all we can to assist.

Kind regards,

Paul Anderson.
 
2.0 HDi 110 bhp...

well ok, am gonna check this out.
and about the cut off thing..?

because a friend suggested me that due to the catalyser missing, the sensor detects black smoke and hence cuts the engine..is it..?
 
That won't be the case,

your engine isn't modern enough to have the required sensors to do that, and yours is a diesel,

Lambda sensors have been on petrol cars for years, but on diesels it is a very recent thing,

Plus the CAT doesn't cut your black smoke much if at all, that's what DPF's are for and your engine never had one, and removing the cat won't cause problems either

I reckon it could be a faulty MAF or a buggered turbo

You need to get the fault codes read on the ECU for a better understanding of what has happened
 
That won't be the case,

your engine isn't modern enough to have the required sensors to do that, and yours is a diesel,

Lambda sensors have been on petrol cars for years, but on diesels it is a very recent thing,

Plus the CAT doesn't cut your black smoke much if at all, that's what DPF's are for and your engine never had one, and removing the cat won't cause problems either

I reckon it could be a faulty MAF or a buggered turbo

You need to get the fault codes read on the ECU for a better understanding of what has happened

The HDi diesels all have lambda probes and 2 way cats right from 1998 forwards. Even our old 1996 Seat Ibiza 1.9D non turbo had a 2 way cat.

None of this though has anything to do with rattling noises. I'm at a loss to understand this.

Perhaps Izzy can record the sound for us and send it over.
 
Really?

I know 2 way cats were in, but lambda probes? I didn't think they came in till quite recently on diesels

Peugeot's HDi engines were well ahead of anyone else's common rail diesels in time and in technology. VAG was playing around with diect injection at that time, as was GM (Vauxhall), but neither were using the outrageous fuel rail pressures PSA was using.

Right from the start the HDi motors had MAFs (hitherto un-necessary with diesel engines because diesel engines do not have throttles). This was done so that the probe could be utilised whilst preparing for future emissions standards regs.

My 2.2 was a 2001 model year car and it had a DPF as well. It actually complied with Euro IV regs in 2001!

My 5-series has FOUR probes!! Overkill.
 

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