Perserving life of your car

[hazzagrant]

Anyone got any tips on this, obviously theres the letting it warm up, oil level, cooling down if you got a turbo etc
anyone got any great tips or ideas about how to do this??

 

[pgarner]

service it on/before time esp timing belt
wash it regulary
dont gun it everywhere

 

[MasterAuron]

Re-underseal every couple of years.

Make sure you have a good coat of wax on it at all times but especially at winter.

Use good quality oil and replacement parts (original manufacturer or better).

Treat any bare metal immediately to prevent rust (stone chips etc).

That's about all I can think of apart form what's already been said.

 

[billyo]

Oil change every 6 months or 5000miles. This one alone will allow the engine to run for 200k+

A lot of damage is done when worn parts are ignored, like clutches. So if something goes wrong get it sorted out immediately.

 

[obi_waynne]

I have to second the regular oil changes. Don't forget to do the oil and air filter though.

Wrap a magnet round your oil filter to catch the abrasive metal particles. These little bits act like a sandblast as they circulate round your engine.

 

[aston]

The cars which live longest are cars with the highest mileage (Seems to make sence) but I mean engines which are allways warm for example taxis, (often on the road for 24 hours therefore the engine is allways warm)

 

[prevtec]

service regulary, oil, filters, coolant, gearbox oil
thats all is needed, oh and avoid full throttle on any cold engiene

 

[lutonmatt]

dont drive it lol

as most said oil change and thats it really there are so many sensors on cars now the sensors gives up way before the engine

 

[HDi fun]

Anyone got any tips on this, obviously theres the letting it warm up, oil level, cooling down if you got a turbo etc
anyone got any great tips or ideas about how to do this??

I think your initial points are fundamentally sound ones.

Warm up and cool down are very good paractices.

Also, and this is a controversial one, don't mix oils. Top up with the same stuff that it was filled with at the last change.

This especially important with fully synthetic oils. Unless you have a degree in organic chemistry and all the data sheets for all oils you plan to use I suggest keeping to the same oil. Even if the SAE and API ratings are identical it's no way to ensure that the additive packs are mutually compatible.

 

[obi_waynne]

To contradict Luton I would say use it regularly. Every car I've left sitting around has developed issues and problems. Cars need to feel wanted and loved.

 

[RobBentley]

Warm-Up is only good if done correctly. You see so many people "warming up" the car by sitting there letting it tick over. This is not good for the engine at all. Due to the lack of load it's running 'cold' for far too long.

Start it, and move off straight away, but keep the revs at a sensible level due to the higher friction levels on a cold engine. The loaded engine will warm much quicker.

 

[HDi fun]

Warm-Up is only good if done correctly. You see so many people "warming up" the car by sitting there letting it tick over. This is not good for the engine at all. Due to the lack of load it's running 'cold' for far too long.

Start it, and move off straight away, but keep the revs at a sensible level due to the higher friction levels on a cold engine. The loaded engine will warm much quicker.

Yes, Agreed. I also agree that regular use is good. Repeated short journeys are very bad indeed.

RE Rob Bentley - agree as well but keep the load gentle until the oil temp gauge gets up to normal operating range. That way all engine components will be the correct size. Cold pistons are a loose fit in the bores and can slap around.

 

[RobBentley]

Yes, Agreed. I also agree that regular use is good. Repeated short journeys are very bad indeed.

RE Rob Bentley - agree as well but keep the load gentle until the oil temp gauge gets up to normal operating range. That way all engine components will be the correct size. Cold pistons are a loose fit in the bores and can slap around.

Yup - totally. It's just I have friends that site outside for 5-10 minutes "warming it up", and its completely defeating the point - making things worse in fact.

 

[HDi fun]

Yup - totally. It's just I have friends that site outside for 5-10 minutes "warming it up", and its completely defeating the point - making things worse in fact.

The 5-10 minute engine running at idle speed from cold is not a problem if it is then driven for at least a couple of dozen miles before being shut down.

The biggest problem is not the cold start or the idling. It's switching off the engine before it's had time to reach full operating temperature.

If an engine (and petrol engines are more likely to be compromised than diesel ones) is shut down whilst there is still water vapour present in the bores then that vapour will potentially be corrosive as a result of acidic gases (combustion by-product) being absorbed by the water vapour.

This is why a well serviced and well driven 130,000 mile used car is a better prosect than a 5000 mile 3 year old car.

 

[96AccordCoupe]

What about on cold mornings when your windscreen is frozen up?

I would start the car and let things warm up whilst I de-iced the windscreen.

Now I'm considering driving away with a frozen screen if it means my baby will be warming up more efficiently!

 

[pgarner]

turn it over and use warm water to defrost then wipe the water off before it refreezes. 30 seconds and your off

 

[RobBentley]

This is what a can of de-icer is brilliant for.

On the flip side, my FreeLander (now sold) had a heated front screen. What a blessing that was. 30 seconds and even the thickest of ice melted!!

 

[HDi fun]

What about on cold mornings when your windscreen is frozen up?

I would start the car and let things warm up whilst I de-iced the windscreen.

Now I'm considering driving away with a frozen screen if it means my baby will be warming up more efficiently!

Good vision is essential. I doubt that the fact your car is contributing a tiny amount less to the controversial CO2 issue would be much comfort to the family of someone you killed because you had inadequate vision due to a frozen up windscreen.

Start the car and switch on all the electrics to put a bit of load on the engine. This also will defrost the front and rear lights.

Get a big 2 litre plastic bottle and fill with water from an indoor tap. Chuck this all over the windows (mind your hands and arms if you have automatic rain sensing wipers!).

Spray up with a little deicer - take the bottle back indoors. This should be enough time for you to be able to get in the car and drive away safely without a frozen screen or a stone cold engine.

 

[turbonutter69]

I don't use de-icer as it makes the insides of the windows steam up. I'll turn on the ignition and start the blowers on full and let it melt with the air from the blowers. Allowing a car to idle while col won't do any damage whatsoever if as HDi points out the car is driven and not just switched off when warm.
Easy for me now anyways cause the Focus has heated windows and mirrors.

 

[obi_waynne]

Idle is the problem. Hold the revs at 1000-1200 rpm and it will actually start to warm up more quickly.

I certainly wouldn't advocate driving with a letterbox gap in the ICE. To clear the ice just pour on some luke warm tap water, This works very well for me. It's cheaper and a darn site more effective that deicer which tends to cool the screen as it evaporates and causes it to ice over again. (Just don't put hot water on a cold screen .)

Thinking about it, de-icer can't be all that good for your paintwork? Any comments on this from our resident petro-chemists?