Oilman - sump plugs

Yugguy

Torque King
Points
507
Location
Rugby (expat Preston lad)
Car
Merc C220Cdi Elegan
Howdo mate. I usually buy my oil and filter kits from you but it'd be great if you started including a sump plug, even if it costs a bit extra. What do you think? Saves us all having to go to europarts for one tiny bit.
 

herb

modherbrator
Moderator
Points
507
Location
west midlands
Car
Seat Leon Cupra
Are you supposed to replace the sump plug every time you change your oil then?

not entirely sure on this 1 but i do 2 oil/filter changes a year and i replace the sump plug with the 2nd oil/filter change! as said above not entirely sure its needed but something i was told and has stuck:confused:
 

MasterAuron

Very Senior Member
Points
242
Location
379bhp 359lbft
Car
Mk1 Focus RS
Hmm, there seems to be a difference in opinion here,

I checked my service manuel and nothing is mentioned about the sump plug

I know but service manuals are gay. How many times do you hear of parts failing well before they are scheduled for a change or even look at...

For the couple of quid extra it's worth changing it.
 

HDi fun

TC ModFather
Points
637
Location
Buckinghamshire UK
Car
Passat 2.0 TDi
I know but service manuals are gay. How many times do you hear of parts failing well before they are scheduled for a change or even look at...

For the couple of quid extra it's worth changing it.

I agree with this especially with the outrageously long intervals some makers recommend. Especially if you keep your cars a long time as I do.

12-15k is enough I think. The American 3000 mile rule is going a bit far with modern oils though.

Then again, they routinely run cars for 600,000 plus miles.
 

oilman

Approved trader
Points
262
Location
Redruth/ Sunny Cornwall
Car
Porsche
You do get a better seal with a fresh washer, every other time is fine though.

Long life servicing is something I don't particularly like, annually or 10K is a better option as we've been seeing a lot of things on forums about sludge build ups etc in long life serviced engines
 

oilman

Approved trader
Points
262
Location
Redruth/ Sunny Cornwall
Car
Porsche
Ester based oils are the best and the Fuchs Titan Race Pro S & R, Motul 300V, Gulf Competition, Redline and Millers CFS are all ester based. There are other ones such as the Motul X-Max and Castrol Edge 10w-60 which have an ester content.
 

oilman

Approved trader
Points
262
Location
Redruth/ Sunny Cornwall
Car
Porsche
Amsoil is pretty good stuff, but very expensive. Personally I'd go with one of the ester oils over that, especially as your car doesn't have manufacturer specs to meet
 

jarrus

Pro Tuner
Points
337
Location
West Midlands, UK
Car
Suzuki Swift Sport
I thought AMSOIL would have been ester based, I'm considering Redline but really I'm not sure which is the best to go for out of the ones you list, I think the clincher would be the fact I could buy it in a 5 litre bottle as I need 4.5 litres of oil for my car
 

jarrus

Pro Tuner
Points
337
Location
West Midlands, UK
Car
Suzuki Swift Sport
Having just said that I have noticed that you sell the Millers CFS in the upgrade service pack for my car But but I also noticed it is a 10w40 rather than a 5w40 that I usually use,

does it matter?
 

oilman

Approved trader
Points
262
Location
Redruth/ Sunny Cornwall
Car
Porsche
A 5w-40 is better for cold starts, but what you could do is go for the CFS service pack and add a note in the delivery notes box for it to be changed for the 5w-40.

Amsoil are good for meeting manufacturer specs, which is why their oils are so expensive, but if you don't need to meet manufacturer specs, I'd go for an ester oil like the CFS or Redline.

Cheers

Tim
 

Country Bumpkin

Track Warrior
Points
187
Location
Norfolk
Car
GTO T.T.
A lot of sump plug washers are of the crush variety and are not suitable for re-use anyway, they belong in the bin when carrying out an oil change.
That said, we never re-use a sump plug washer whether it's on an engine or g/box etc. The cost of new ones is pennies, the pain involved in replacing a leaking one just isn't worth it.
The other point worth noting is that people tend to over tighten drain and fill plugs as it is, in an aluminium casing/sump this can be rather annoying for the next person to work on the vehicle as there's sod all thread left and you end up having to rectify it, o.k. we charge for it but it's an unnecessary job caused by negligence somewhere.
I see this far more than i should.
 

oilman

Approved trader
Points
262
Location
Redruth/ Sunny Cornwall
Car
Porsche
Avoid like the plague. I'm not allowed to put the full chemical report on a forum as it was done for us privately, but here is the last sentence (I've omitted the name of the oil company that tested it)

NB: THIS PRODUCT MUST NOT BE USED IN ANY GRADE OF ***** LUBRICANT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES WHATSOEVER.

I would say that gets the point across :)

Cheers

Tim
 

oilman

Approved trader
Points
262
Location
Redruth/ Sunny Cornwall
Car
Porsche
They keep popping up and threatening to sue us for pointing out that the additive is rubbish, but it never goes any further than that as they know we're right.

I had a bit of a look into a few additives a while back and found that some of the more popular ones have been fined by the advertising authorities in the States as their claims bear no resemblance to reality

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNSGGDwJcEY&feature=related
 

oilman

Approved trader
Points
262
Location
Redruth/ Sunny Cornwall
Car
Porsche
But it seems that lots of people get sucked in by those ads. There are a load of ones for oils where they use one oil and get one BHP figure on a dyno, then they swap it for another magic oil and gain 15bhp. What is more likely is that they had an overly thick oil in the engine, swapped it for one that's too thin, tweaked the dyno a bit and came up with a power gain.
 

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