hello! i am new to this site and to the whole car scene. i have a 2009 hyundai elantra and would like to make some mods to it and tune it up but i will need some help. i would first like to get a cold air intake and then go from there. i just need someone to help me out and suggest some things to buy. :bigsmile:
Need help with mods!
- Thread starter elantra09
- Start date
Re: Need hepl with mods!
Hello and Welcome to TorqueCars.:bigsmile:
Hope you enjoy your time with us.
Hello and Welcome to TorqueCars.:bigsmile:
Hope you enjoy your time with us.
T9 man
TC ModFather
Re: Need hepl with mods!
Greetings and Welcome to our TorqueCars Forum my Friend!
I am unable to help you with your question directly, but you are definitely in the right place for the knowledge that you seek! Somebody will be along in a little while who will be able to assist you with some answers or suggestions to your query!
Good luck!
Greetings and Welcome to our TorqueCars Forum my Friend!
I am unable to help you with your question directly, but you are definitely in the right place for the knowledge that you seek! Somebody will be along in a little while who will be able to assist you with some answers or suggestions to your query!
Good luck!
geraint13
Pro Tuner
Re: Need hepl with mods!
Hi and welcome
Hi and welcome
jdmeaux1952
Full member
From what I have read elsewhere, there are quite a few Tiburon parts that fit the Elantras. Look at different forums to see what has and hasn't worked.
Guybo
Torque Junkie
What are you looking to get from the car? More power, better looks, better sound? How far are you willing to go and how much do you have to spend?
Aerial Andy944
The Torque Meister
Holy thread resurrection
This member hasn't posted anything in 3 years. Hopefully he might get an alert and tell us how he got on
This member hasn't posted anything in 3 years. Hopefully he might get an alert and tell us how he got on
Guybo
Torque Junkie
LOL, I didn't look at the date of the OP I just saw that someone responded yesterday
I just saw that someone responded yesterday
T9 man
TC ModFather
Well every now and then Obi Waynne sends out an all points bulletin to members who have not been around for a while.
It's nice to see some of them appearing in the members online box shortly afterwards
It's nice to see some of them appearing in the members online box shortly afterwards
jdmeaux1952
Full member
Sometimes you just to wake up people.
SteveInSeattle
New member
I'll take a stab at it I suppose.
1) HP isn't gonna happen. Unless you nitrous or turbo this little 2.0L I4 you don't have much hope... and turbos are heavy and costly. Its much cheaper to sell your elantra and buy a used V6 or V8 with low miles. You may even get into a RWD or AWD set up that'll be more fun to throw around.
Cold air intakes on my 5.7L V8 trans am will get me about 10 hp... from a 300 hp engine. In these 140 hp engines you'd be lucky to get 5. That's some cash and effort chewing up your hood area for 5 hp... and you'd be using a low-restriction (i.e. low-filtering) air filter... which could compromise your engines wear and tear. It just isn't worth it IMO. YMMV. BTW, the stock intake track is pretty decent from what I'd looked at. Its pretty direct from the front of the hood to the filter box and up to the intake manifold. If you were messing with a WRX like hood and using that center scoop to fill a custom air box and feed the manifold on a short path I could see some gains... but we're talking single digits here.
Turbo is about the only way this engine will turn out real numbers.
Exhaust isn't a terrible idea, but the stock layout is already pretty good. Porting the exhaust manifold may show gains and is cheap enough to try. If you want a trick set up a header to run down the passenger running board and dump outwards behind the rear wheel may be doable. The only gains you'll really see on exhaust is if you lighten the exhaust system by shortening it. You may get 10hp with a real open system and pass through (gutted cat).
2) Suspension - doable.
The stock suspension comes with plenty of clearance at stock ride height. There are relatively cheap drop springs on the market that can give you 1" to even 2" drops if you want a different look. These springs typically have increased rates to compensate for reduced wheel travel/clearance. Ideally you'd want stiffer than stock shocks to match, but a small 1" drop probably isn't going to matter much in daily driving. There are chin spoilers, door skirts, rear diffusers to help with air flow more if you want that kind of look or actually race these econo cars, but set up the suspension first so you don't over-do it and end up dropping it within an inch of its life.
These cars understeer, as most do from the factory. A larger rear sway bar helps FWD cars like this more than anything. The factory Elantra wagon had a larger sway bar from the factory than the sedan did... thats a cheap $80 upgrade if you wanta try it out.
Coilovers are way more adjustable than any drop springs with random shocks... but they're not cheap (think $1200 for a decent set instead of $250 for just drop springs). If I was racing or serious about this sedan, that's what I'd suggest, but most guys just want a cool stance and a comfortable ride for their daily driver / stereo on wheels.
3) Wheels and tires are your TOP upgrade for sure. The stock Elantra came with 15x5" steel wheel clad with 195/65R15 tires... or 16x5.6" aluminum rims with 205/55R16 tires. The wheel bolt pattern is 5x4.5" (5x114.3mm) with a high positive offset. Some people also mount 5x115mm wheels to this bolt pattern, I wouldn't advise it, but I've never seen any issues from doing so (and some hub manufacturers even list them as interchangable).
Common upgrades are to something with a bit more meat, say 225 wide, and with more room for larger brakes (17" or larger rims are a must if you're upgrading brakes). My studded snow tires use a 225/45R17 tire on a 17x8" rim for a mostly square set up and the same outside diameter of 25" the stock set ups use.
If you change to larger tires your speedo will be off... ABS should work fine if all 4 are equal, but that speedo may get you a ticket or two if you go bigger without compensating (no, I don't know anyone who can adjust your stock speedo... this is a econocar people).
You "could" experiment with 18, 19, or 20" rims... but I'd be careful to keep the barrel width to 8 or 9", and select a tire that'll have a 25" outer diameter. Those 20" rims will hit pot holes hard and the lack of any real sidewall will make it feel like you're suspension is super hard (because it is... tire sidewall compliance affects the overall wheel spring rate... bigger rims mean stiffer suspension).
Personally I don't consider 19 or 20" rims usable with a 25" tire... but you may like rattling your teeth. 18" isn't crazy bad and the tire prices are more reasonable than 19 and 20 tires.
So yes, lower profile tires (17+) will increase the firmness of the suspension, which isn't a bad thing in moderation. Also, 17" or larger rims are needed if you want to increase brake rotor size to say a 12.5" rotor and dual or quad-piston calipers. 18" seems to be a happy spot, more than that is a style thing but expect ride quality to suffer.
4) Brakes. If you have wider rubber, say 245 tires, and you plan on tracking the car in autocross class, you may be out of luck for for brake upgrades, check your racing rule book... but if its just for street use and you want to fill those big rims you just slapped on, you can look at a big brake upgrade. Larger rotors mean more mass to limit braking temps better, and they also increase pad sweep area for better smoother engaugement and lower braking temps... and you usually increase clamping pressure as well, though you don't want to get crazy there. Clamping force is directly related to the area of one side of the pistons. One large piston may be the same or even larger than two smaller pistons, but typically going to a 2 piston set up increases total piston area/force on the pad. Multiple pistons also help even out pad wear/taper, and also allow for the same piston area with a thinner bridge/caliper height. I wouldnt go crazy here on an econocar, but there are some relatively cheap (~$500) big brake upgrades with 12.5" rotors for the elantra... thats a huge win in my book for performance and looks.
5) stereo- yep, all kinds of android capable touch screens with wifi and bluetooth set ups available. Butyl rubber sound mats on the doors, trunk, and floors can help with noise too. Theres even light weight door/trunk/ceiling/hood liners available to add more deadening/sound control.
6)- wind noise... there are WindStopper weatherstripping add ons that can help lower the wind noise in the cabin, they claim 7dB drops... I installed some, they have SOME effect, I havnt measured it though.
7) LED lights... pretty much every light in the car can be upgraded to bright, low power demand LEDs. Headlights can be opened up and customized like any car, but there are also premade units with low and high beam projectors you can stick LED or HID (or even laser-light set ups now) along with style stuff like projector lens etched designs, demon eye LEDs, halos, and even LED DRL/eyebrows. Depends how much you want to spend, and how much effort/light you want to deal with.
8) spoilers, trunk lid lips, chin spoilers, side skirts, etc... are always an option I'm sure... but they're heavy and most add downforce to the rear wheels, not the front. Chin spoilers may be the exception. Vortex generators may also be usable on the highway, my rain doesn't clear in the middle like it does at the sides... I dunno.
you can do a lot for comfort, sound, and suspension/tire/wheels/brakes... not much for hp. Its an economy car.
P.S. if you already have a tranny apart or plan on swapping in a low miles one, Quaife does make a helical differential you can swap in. It cost about $1000 and thats before you pay to get it installed. But at least you'd have a LSD in your FWD set up in the snow.
1) HP isn't gonna happen. Unless you nitrous or turbo this little 2.0L I4 you don't have much hope... and turbos are heavy and costly. Its much cheaper to sell your elantra and buy a used V6 or V8 with low miles. You may even get into a RWD or AWD set up that'll be more fun to throw around.
Cold air intakes on my 5.7L V8 trans am will get me about 10 hp... from a 300 hp engine. In these 140 hp engines you'd be lucky to get 5. That's some cash and effort chewing up your hood area for 5 hp... and you'd be using a low-restriction (i.e. low-filtering) air filter... which could compromise your engines wear and tear. It just isn't worth it IMO. YMMV. BTW, the stock intake track is pretty decent from what I'd looked at. Its pretty direct from the front of the hood to the filter box and up to the intake manifold. If you were messing with a WRX like hood and using that center scoop to fill a custom air box and feed the manifold on a short path I could see some gains... but we're talking single digits here.
Turbo is about the only way this engine will turn out real numbers.
Exhaust isn't a terrible idea, but the stock layout is already pretty good. Porting the exhaust manifold may show gains and is cheap enough to try. If you want a trick set up a header to run down the passenger running board and dump outwards behind the rear wheel may be doable.
The only gains you'll really see on exhaust is if you lighten the exhaust system by shortening it. You may get 10hp with a real open system and pass through (gutted cat).2) Suspension - doable.
The stock suspension comes with plenty of clearance at stock ride height. There are relatively cheap drop springs on the market that can give you 1" to even 2" drops if you want a different look. These springs typically have increased rates to compensate for reduced wheel travel/clearance. Ideally you'd want stiffer than stock shocks to match, but a small 1" drop probably isn't going to matter much in daily driving. There are chin spoilers, door skirts, rear diffusers to help with air flow more if you want that kind of look or actually race these econo cars, but set up the suspension first so you don't over-do it and end up dropping it within an inch of its life.
These cars understeer, as most do from the factory. A larger rear sway bar helps FWD cars like this more than anything. The factory Elantra wagon had a larger sway bar from the factory than the sedan did... thats a cheap $80 upgrade if you wanta try it out.
Coilovers are way more adjustable than any drop springs with random shocks... but they're not cheap (think $1200 for a decent set instead of $250 for just drop springs). If I was racing or serious about this sedan, that's what I'd suggest, but most guys just want a cool stance and a comfortable ride for their daily driver / stereo on wheels.
3) Wheels and tires are your TOP upgrade for sure. The stock Elantra came with 15x5" steel wheel clad with 195/65R15 tires... or 16x5.6" aluminum rims with 205/55R16 tires. The wheel bolt pattern is 5x4.5" (5x114.3mm) with a high positive offset. Some people also mount 5x115mm wheels to this bolt pattern, I wouldn't advise it, but I've never seen any issues from doing so (and some hub manufacturers even list them as interchangable).
Common upgrades are to something with a bit more meat, say 225 wide, and with more room for larger brakes (17" or larger rims are a must if you're upgrading brakes). My studded snow tires use a 225/45R17 tire on a 17x8" rim for a mostly square set up and the same outside diameter of 25" the stock set ups use.
If you change to larger tires your speedo will be off... ABS should work fine if all 4 are equal, but that speedo may get you a ticket or two if you go bigger without compensating (no, I don't know anyone who can adjust your stock speedo... this is a econocar people
).You "could" experiment with 18, 19, or 20" rims... but I'd be careful to keep the barrel width to 8 or 9", and select a tire that'll have a 25" outer diameter. Those 20" rims will hit pot holes hard and the lack of any real sidewall will make it feel like you're suspension is super hard (because it is... tire sidewall compliance affects the overall wheel spring rate... bigger rims mean stiffer suspension).
Personally I don't consider 19 or 20" rims usable with a 25" tire... but you may like rattling your teeth. 18" isn't crazy bad and the tire prices are more reasonable than 19 and 20 tires.
So yes, lower profile tires (17+) will increase the firmness of the suspension, which isn't a bad thing in moderation. Also, 17" or larger rims are needed if you want to increase brake rotor size to say a 12.5" rotor and dual or quad-piston calipers. 18" seems to be a happy spot, more than that is a style thing but expect ride quality to suffer.
4) Brakes. If you have wider rubber, say 245 tires, and you plan on tracking the car in autocross class, you may be out of luck for for brake upgrades, check your racing rule book... but if its just for street use and you want to fill those big rims you just slapped on, you can look at a big brake upgrade. Larger rotors mean more mass to limit braking temps better, and they also increase pad sweep area for better smoother engaugement and lower braking temps... and you usually increase clamping pressure as well, though you don't want to get crazy there. Clamping force is directly related to the area of one side of the pistons. One large piston may be the same or even larger than two smaller pistons, but typically going to a 2 piston set up increases total piston area/force on the pad. Multiple pistons also help even out pad wear/taper, and also allow for the same piston area with a thinner bridge/caliper height. I wouldnt go crazy here on an econocar, but there are some relatively cheap (~$500) big brake upgrades with 12.5" rotors for the elantra... thats a huge win in my book for performance and looks.
5) stereo- yep, all kinds of android capable touch screens with wifi and bluetooth set ups available. Butyl rubber sound mats on the doors, trunk, and floors can help with noise too. Theres even light weight door/trunk/ceiling/hood liners available to add more deadening/sound control.
6)- wind noise... there are WindStopper weatherstripping add ons that can help lower the wind noise in the cabin, they claim 7dB drops... I installed some, they have SOME effect, I havnt measured it though.
7) LED lights... pretty much every light in the car can be upgraded to bright, low power demand LEDs. Headlights can be opened up and customized like any car, but there are also premade units with low and high beam projectors you can stick LED or HID (or even laser-light set ups now) along with style stuff like projector lens etched designs, demon eye LEDs, halos, and even LED DRL/eyebrows. Depends how much you want to spend, and how much effort/light you want to deal with.
8) spoilers, trunk lid lips, chin spoilers, side skirts, etc... are always an option I'm sure... but they're heavy and most add downforce to the rear wheels, not the front. Chin spoilers may be the exception. Vortex generators may also be usable on the highway, my rain doesn't clear in the middle like it does at the sides... I dunno.
you can do a lot for comfort, sound, and suspension/tire/wheels/brakes... not much for hp. Its an economy car.
P.S. if you already have a tranny apart or plan on swapping in a low miles one, Quaife does make a helical differential you can swap in. It cost about $1000 and thats before you pay to get it installed.
But at least you'd have a LSD in your FWD set up in the snow.Similar threads
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