My Toyota Celica T sport

I absolutely love this car...

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Hi there please note that you can only post pictures or links when you have 10 posts and your account has been upgraded (your username will be shown in bold). I've approved this one for you though.

We had to do this to stop spammers but it does encourage new members to get involved and a chance to see what a great friendly site this is.
 
Please forgive my manners. I should have said nice pic, the car is looking very fine indeed my friend, I see why you like it.
 
Ah sorry didn't read site rules re the 10 post minimum for pics but I plan to be around a lot so shouldn't take long getting to 10...
 
Celica's are ok. Over here, they came in 2 trim levels. GT (140 HP 1.8L) and GTS (180 HP 1.8L). They're known here for being girl's cars, but to each their own.
I think they're ok sporty cars. I just never liked them. Not because of the social stigma attached to them, I just don't like them. An older Celica with flip up headlights though I would be all over like a fat kid on cake.
 
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Celica's are ok. Over here, they came in 2 trim levels. GT (140 HP 1.8L) and GTS (180 HP 1.8L). They're known here for being girl's cars, but to each their own.

Girl's cars!!!!!! :amazed: It's amazing how the perceptions of a particular car model can vary wildly across the pond :blink:
Well as you say my friend, each to their own ;)
 
Ah mr twin cams mine has 1.8 vvtli 190bhp, 0-60 in around 6 and a half seconds and top end of around 140mph, if that's a girl's car then pass me a mini skirt and call me Paula :p
 
Ah mr twin cams mine has 1.8 vvtli 190bhp, 0-60 in around 6 and a half seconds and top end of around 140mph, if that's a girl's car then pass me a mini skirt and call me Paula :p
So was the sex change operation a success? Here's the outfit you asked for Paula.
plus_size_school_girl_costumes.jpg


Ah mr twin cams mine has 1.8 vvtli 190bhp, 0-60 in around 6 and a half seconds and top end of around 140mph, if that's a girl's car then pass me a mini skirt and call me Paula
Also, That's a problem I have with such high revving engines. My Saturn does 0-60 in 8.2 seconds at it's slowest (average is probably around 7.8 seconds) and tops out around 144 MPH. Not bad for a base model and the supercharged models were even faster.
 
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initial plan is to get it back from the garage this week sometime (it threw a con rod 5 weeks after buying it so lucky it's still under warranty!)

Then I'm gonna do a mini service myself then after that I'm open to suggestions! I have virtually no mechanical experience though so small projects to start with...
 
initial plan is to get it back from the garage this week sometime (it threw a con rod 5 weeks after buying it so lucky it's still under warranty!)

Then I'm gonna do a mini service myself then after that I'm open to suggestions! I have virtually no mechanical experience though so small projects to start with...

That's where we come in! What are you intentions with the car? I.e. daily/track. Do you want looks or performance?
 
initial plan is to get it back from the garage this week sometime (it threw a con rod 5 weeks after buying it so lucky it's still under warranty!)

Then I'm gonna do a mini service myself then after that I'm open to suggestions! I have virtually no mechanical experience though so small projects to start with...
PM me if you need ideas. Small is how I'm starting on both my cars, and I've already got a few done on both cars. If you need me too, I can look into the American Celica scene and see what they do. I tend to specialize in American cars, but I can make exceptions.
 
cheers guys, the car is mainly used for day to day travel (work, shopping etc) for me and the wife (who doesn't drive!) but I wouldn't say no to throwing it round a track sometime!

Tommy, that's very kind of you I will certainly have a good think about some ideas!!
 
cheers guys, the car is mainly used for day to day travel (work, shopping etc) for me and the wife (who doesn't drive!) but I wouldn't say no to throwing it round a track sometime!

Tommy, that's very kind of you I will certainly have a good think about some ideas!!

I would start with suspension and brakes. I would probably avoid a rock hard chassis though as it isn't nice to drive every day. Coilovers but standard bushes. Front strut brace and possible thicker anti-roll bars.
 
The cars already got a sorted chassis already though.
Why would there be a need to uprate the suspension and brakes when they are perfectly adequate?
Top Gear proved that coilovers did nothing in terms of performance on a standard motor.
I'd leave the suspension/brakes until some more horses have been released. ;)


I would start with suspension and brakes. I would probably avoid a rock hard chassis though as it isn't nice to drive every day. Coilovers but standard bushes. Front strut brace and possible thicker anti-roll bars.
 
The cars already got a sorted chassis already though.
Why would there be a need to uprate the suspension and brakes when they are perfectly adequate?
Top Gear proved that coilovers did nothing in terms of performance on a standard motor.
I'd leave the suspension/brakes until some more horses have been released. ;)

That's a ridicilous thing to say. Top Gear proved absolutely nothing. They only fitted coilovers, a BBK, lighter wheels and different tyres. There is much more to setup than that. A properly set up chassis will make a car handle better. In turn that will make the power it has more useable and more fun to drive. Most factory setups are perfectly fine for driving for the shops, but they can always be improved upon.

Imo suspension and brakes come before any major power hikes (this doesn't include an induction kit/exhaust as that only counts for about 10bhp if you're lucky).

It all depends on usage (and budget). If I was driving hundreds of miles per week and had no intention of track use then I would keep things comfortable (HDi style ;)) but for the best of both worlds some parts have to be upgraded.
 
Top Gear proved everything.
I said there is no point in uprating a standard cars suspension/brakes when they are perfectly adequate.
Manufacturers do hours and hours of testing so your never going to get a properly set up chassis in an afternoon in a garage.
My point is why bother to upgrade when the car can cope perfectly fine.
Unless your going bonkers with power or at the track every other day then it's pointless imo.


That's a ridicilous thing to say. Top Gear proved absolutely nothing. They only fitted coilovers, a BBK, lighter wheels and different tyres. There is much more to setup than that. A properly set up chassis will make a car handle better. In turn that will make the power it has more useable and more fun to drive. Most factory setups are perfectly fine for driving for the shops, but they can always be improved upon.

Imo suspension and brakes come before any major power hikes (this doesn't include an induction kit/exhaust as that only counts for about 10bhp if you're lucky).

It all depends on usage (and budget). If I was driving hundreds of miles per week and had no intention of track use then I would keep things comfortable (HDi style ;)) but for the best of both worlds some parts have to be upgraded.
 
Top Gear proved everything.
I said there is no point in uprating a standard cars suspension/brakes when they are perfectly adequate.
Manufacturers do hours and hours of testing so your never going to get a properly set up chassis in an afternoon in a garage.
My point is why bother to upgrade when the car can cope perfectly fine.
Unless your going bonkers with power or at the track every other day then it's pointless imo.

They proved absolutely nothing. They didn't even have a 4 wheel alignment done. That is basic. Of course there is a point in doing it if it's better. Unless the car is either brand new, or practically new then the setup is worth changing. Factory setups are generally a mid-point between performance and comfort.

I agree that an afternoon in a garage will not see the best setup you can get but it will often improve on things if it's done correctly. Why did Ford uprate the setup on the ST and the RS if the setup on the 'lesser models' was good enough? Why do race teams change pretty much the entire setup of brand new cars?
 
What makes you think they didn't have the alignment done?
Ford uprated the chassis because of the extra power which is what I said in my previous post.
There is no point unless going for silly power or at a track every other day.
And you use race cars as an example. That's a point also they do hours and hours of testing and as you know they are race cars so yeah there is a point in them upgrading as they will only see a track.


They proved absolutely nothing. They didn't even have a 4 wheel alignment done. That is basic. Of course there is a point in doing it if it's better. Unless the car is either brand new, or practically new then the setup is worth changing. Factory setups are generally a mid-point between performance and comfort.

I agree that an afternoon in a garage will not see the best setup you can get but it will often improve on things if it's done correctly. Why did Ford uprate the setup on the ST and the RS if the setup on the 'lesser models' was good enough? Why do race teams change pretty much the entire setup of brand new cars?
 
What makes you think they didn't have the alignment done?
Ford uprated the chassis because of the extra power which is what I said in my previous post.
There is no point unless going for silly power or at a track every other day.
And you use race cars as an example. That's a point also they do hours and hours of testing and as you know they are race cars so yeah there is a point in them upgrading as they will only see a track.

Because nothing was shown or said about it. What camber were they running? Toe? Caster? Height? To take advantage of suspension upgrades you have to have the alignment done. Then the alignment has to be done properly. You can't honesly think a standard setup there is better? Compare the various settings you can use when having a four wheel alignment done and the effects they have and you should see what I'm talking about it. Even if the original equipment is fine, it doesn't offer the adustability you need to setup the car.

You may see no point as you drive a completely standard car but ask the various members of the forum whether their modified suspension is better than the OEM suspension and probably all of them will say yes. Me included and I'm not running 'silly' power. It has made the car better to drive which is is something you won't comprehend unless you do it.

Now, I suggest this is either moved to a seperate thread so it does not ruin somebody's project thread or it is left there.
 
I've had coilovers before and a full setup on my Fiesta Turbo. Yes for a car that's been heavily modified within the power department then yes there is a benefit.
But there is no point if the suspension is already good enough is there?
Why would you bother with a fully adjustable suspension on a standard car? There's absolutely no point whatsoever unless you going for silly power.
And just because they didn't mention it doesn't mean it didn't happen.
They didn't show the wheels getting balanced so was they not done?
 
I've had coilovers before and a full setup on my Fiesta Turbo. Yes for a car that's been heavily modified within the power department then yes there is a benefit.
But there is no point if the suspension is already good enough is there?
Why would you bother with a fully adjustable suspension on a standard car? There's absolutely no point whatsoever unless you going for silly power.
And just because they didn't mention it doesn't mean it didn't happen.
They didn't show the wheels getting balanced so was they not done?

If you took two cars. Exactly the same in every way apart from one of the cars has had a full suspension set up and BBK. Let's just say they have 150bhp (not silly power, but enough for some fun). The one with the full suspension and BBK would be more usable and more fun imo. Obviously we both have different opinions on this.

However the OP said the car was his daily but he'd like to use it on a track at some point. Which is why I recommended coilovers. Then he can choose what sort of camber/caster/toe/height he wants. I recommend that he didn't poly bush and instead just refreshed the bushes with OEM ones (assuming they need doing of course) as poly bushes stiffen up the ride A LOT. It also might be worth upgrading the ARBs and/or adding strut braces to tighten things up abit. I think this would be a good compromise between daily driver and track day. It would also mean the car would be nicer to drive. Not all cars need 'silly power' to be fun.

I think we'll just have to agree to disagree on this one. We could be here all night otherwise.
 
for a daily driver, I wouldn't recommend coilovers. I WOULD however recommend stiffer struts and shocks, if available.
Take my Saturn for example. It rides on the Delta platform, which had a few different suspension packages.
FE1 is what my Saturn has. This is the softest of them all.
FE2 was a sport handling package on 2.2L Ions.
FE3 was the a stiffer suspension, used on the 2.4L Ions, 2.4L Cobalt SS's, and 2004 Ion Redline's with the 2.0L supercharged. This was Nurburgring tuned
There was no FE4.
There were 2 different FE5 set ups.
FE5 was the designation from 2005-2007 for the Nurburgring tuned suspension, available only on the Ion Redline and Cobalt SS with the 2.0L supercharged.
FE5 was the designation from 2008-2010 for an updated version of the original FE5, again nurburgring tuned and only available on the 2008-2010 Chevy Cobalt SS and Chevy HHR SS equipped with the 2.0L direct injection turbo.

I can swap from FE1 to FE3 without a problem, and FE5 (either set up) if I keep my original front strut mounts. And all from the GM parts bin to keep costs down. I love looking through the GM parts bin. It makes interesting project cars possible with cheap prices. :D
 
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I would love to say I understood everything that was said in these last posts but really I didn't lol

Basically, I think you should uprate some of the suspension components to make it nicer to drive.

for a daily driver, I wouldn't recommend coilovers. I WOULD however recommend stiffer struts and shocks, if available.
Take my Saturn for example. It rides on the Delta platform, which had a few different suspension packages.
FE1 is what my Saturn has. This is the softest of them all.
FE2 was a sport handling package on 2.2L Ions.
FE3 was the a stiffer suspension, used on the 2.4L Ions, 2.4L Cobalt SS's, and 2004 Ion Redline's with the 2.0L supercharged. This was Nurburgring tuned
There was no FE4.
There were 2 different FE5 set ups.
FE5 was the designation from 2005-2007 for the Nurburgring tuned suspension, available only on the Ion Redline and Cobalt SS with the 2.0L supercharged.
FE5 was the designation from 2008-2010 for an updated version of the original FE5, again nurburgring tuned and only available on the 2008-2010 Chevy Cobalt SS and Chevy HHR SS equipped with the 2.0L direct injection turbo.

I can swap from FE1 to FE3 without a problem, and FE5 (either set up) if I keep my original front strut mounts. And all from the GM parts bin to keep costs down. I love looking through the GM parts bin. It makes interesting project cars possible with cheap prices. :D

It all depends on how stiff the OP finds the car as it is though. I run coilovers (stiff ones at that) on a daily and it's great fun until you hit a road covered in holes, or speed bump.
 

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