My Bora

Ok have been a member on here for over 2 years but have yet to post picks of the bora so heres some quick shots taken tonight. will get better ones at the weekend if its decent weather as the cars in severe need of a wash






Carputer Clicky for thread



Custom Sub enclouser

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not at the min as tight for cash lol.
looking at having it remapped this year and maybe the downpipe done as well should see around 220-230 with that done. problem comes with the clutch because its has the larger 240mm one its close to a grand for the OEM one. good thing is its the same as the S3 TT of Curpra R and i think its almost the same as the diesel one so can handle around 300 ftlb .
also looking out for a cheap spring set to drop it around 35-40mm so its still usable along with a rear anti roll bar

still on the hunt for a set of HIDs but going prices for them are around £5-600 for the pair second hand

Hi pgarner, try this website for the HID's assuming that we are talking about the same thing here? Car Lights - Car Bulbs - Headlights - Wiper Blades - Xenon Bulbs | Autobulbs Direct Ltd have used them several times before and have found them very reasonable on the prices, they do HID plug and play kits with 2 yrs guarantee on them.
no mate im not wanting conversion kits but a full HID kit- ie proper reflectors and housing

good news is the new brake lines should be here tomorrow. so guess what im doing tomorrow night :(
Sorry about the lights! and will you be using some braided hoses to attach to the disc brakes by any chance?
aye will be using the same lines again along with new clips and possibly araldite or similar to hold them in place

got the new clips today

couple of pence each so have 3 now so will have a spare one. rears are solid lines so dont have them
ok onto better news then

Side after wash


will try and get better ones with the slr rather than the crappy blackberry ones

purposely left the roof undone with clay to feel the comparison
the paintwork now fells like glass couldnt believe the crud that came off with the clay as it looked clean before hand.
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I'm a big fan on this Bora, real tidy example. They're much better looking than the Mk4 Golf in IMHO and this engine is the real pick of the bunch :)
cheers guys, you have both just annoyed the wife who thinks her golf is better looking

as for the engine mmm think if i hadd the money i would have went for the v6. not that much worse than fuel under normal driving and the 4motion for wet weather. but then i think i would miss the boost.

lines turned up today and thanks to my new postie rather than take them to the shop for mum to sign shes taken them to the sorting office. wifes gan to pick them up in the morning for me. hopefully will start the morn night after work but leaving the actual bleeding till friday as think i will have to do the ABS pump so want to sit down and read through how to do it (has to be done through VCDS rather than a bleed nipple)
makes around 212 on most generic stage ones heading up to around 240 on an aggressive stg 2.

looking at finally doing it this year, got to used to the power so it doesnt feel as fast now
Go somewhere in the middle, a balance on power and economy. I'd thoroughly recommend a Viezu dealer if you can find one locally.
looking toward custom code for that reason they give 212-215 power and around 235ftlb. going by the reviews its a pretty OEM feel map in the way the power comes in rather than some that give a big dollop of boost low down.
Can't go wrong with Custom Code either :)

They're doing an offer with before and after runs down the 1/4 mile at GTi International this year ;)
another option to consider is performancetorque where i had my maps done
similar figures to cc but a bit cheaper £265 with a diagnostic, power run before map and 1 after.
you could pop in on your way down to london:bigsmile:

if you look on most vag forums where will advertises all the testimonials are all positive;)
yeah P torque did show up alot along with chipped UK but both rather far from me.

only problem is mate has no time off that seems to match mine until at least august and with us away in sept it could be nov dec before im back down.

Rob will look into that soon i thought they had just kept the 30% on f its 40% ill be happy

Back to the brakes these picked these up today
tomorrow as need the car for tomorrow night. shouldnt take long to swap the lines over and put a little epoxy on the spring clips. itll be the bleeding if the abs has run dry.

10 mins or an hour roughly at a guess
Ok the worn through brake line (marco tube is a great thing)


got the new lines on and bled through. ABS pump was done as well. this was a pretty easy job actually but does require using the 2 man method for bleeding them as you press and hold the pedal while the abs pump runs then bled them off then do it again .

i have got pics of the brake bleeding but there quite poor (its hard to do this and take pics) will see what i can do with them and upload a basic guide.

Anyway took it out for a quick spin 5 miles or so then as happy went and put the covers on the wheels tidied up etc then took it up a blast up whats known as the Devil's Beeftub, this is where the sheep and cattle rustlers used to hid the livestock until they could get away with them.

Near enough at the Bottom

Close up on the wing

blured back ground if you look close you will see white. Yes that is snow !!! 20 degrees the last few days but the snows still there


At the road summit



will load up ones of the beeftub later as trying to do it as a panoramic one
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reason its called the beeftub



in the second pic you can see the edge of the hill, its more or less vertical from there to the bottom. from the road to the bottom is around 350ft. the only thing stopping you going over is the crash barrier im standing on and the wire fence
Ok something that has bothered me since i got the car is that it looks like someone had tried cleaning the headlights with a brick at some point in its past life




So decided today enough was enough and i would have a go at cleaning them up if it went belly up then at least its still light enough at the time to get a set from the scrappy.

tools used

As in the Photo
Medium cut polish, sealant wax, Finish polish, APC @ 10% solution, DA polisher, grades of wet and dry paper 400 - for the really bad starches then 1500, 2000 and 2500, polishing pads - White/ Grey finishing, Green polishing, orange compounding

rather than take the bumper off i just taped around the headlights with some masking tape

soaked the headlight and the wet& dry paper with APC then started to wet sand the light

kept checking every so often to feel how bad the scrathes felt

headlight after 1500 grit paper used

same again with the 2000 then the 2500.

headlight after 2500 grit paper used

As i had nothing more coarse than the 2500 i had to break out the DA earlier than i would really have liked - i was worried about the heat generated on the plastic.


Started up with the Med cut polish on a compounding pad, then same polish on the polishing pad before moving onto the finishing pad with finishing polish.
However getting hit with a compounding pad in the face isnt very nice

a little too much speed near the edge meant that the pad went from around 5000 OPM to nothing by catching the edge.

quick wash and wipe down with the APC dried off and sealed

finished one

plastic polish might have been a better idea as there is still some very faint scratches there but they both look a hundred times better.

as with all guides this is simply a guide and myself, nor torquecars, do not accept responsibility for any damages caused by following the above
OK not much of an update but hey ho
Gave the old girl a wash today as its been about a month since it was last done but it looks like my mother must have been rallying it the 2 weeks i was away along with i wanted to start preping it for winter

couple of before shots







Car was hosed off to get rid of surface crud.
2 bucket method using a mix of shampoo,a little APC, and a very small (10ml) amount of degreaser in 2 17ltr buckets

rather more dirty than i thought


car was de tarred . Wasnt too bad only a few spots on the front doors

car hosed off again before moving onto the clay

1st time ive used bilt hamber clay. supposedly the good thing about this is that it can just be used with water rather than lube.
1st impressions of it:
you get alot for your money 200g for £12 - this is about 4 normal bars. 25g is good enough for a relatively clean car
its a very hard clay as it needed to be in hot hot water for around 5 mins before it was soft enough to knead. it also had to be thrown back in the water several times as it started to harden up
and the water for a lube :( i found it dragged along the paint so started using lube in the form of a 25/75 mix of demon shine - yes the stuff that was on TV all summer long - and water worked like a treat :bigsmile:​

car was then washed using the 2 bucket method again using shampoo only this time before being hosed off a second time.

towelled dried with a drying towel :toung:

another 1st this time was to do an IPA wipe down - IPA being isopropyl alcohol
this was done using a microfibre cloth with a 70:30 mix of IPA and Water.
the main reason for an IPA wipedown is after polishing to remove any product that may have filled defects. ie those who use the likes of AG super resin polish to "polish" out scratches, well if you wiped this over the area it would remove the fillers and you would see the scratch again. however my reason for doing it was to make sure the previous wax, and pretend wax from the demonshine, was removed prior to new wax being applied. this way the paintwork was nice and clean
this is how the car now sat - front wheels had been removed after claying to allow me to try and clean them properly, and also see if my original 16" would fit. they didnt :(


the IPA did show up something


if you look around the sun you will notice some swirls

large pic here

car then got 2 coats of FK1000p including all windows bar windscreen, and wheels got 1 coat reason is later on.

1st impressions so easy to put on actually put too much on in places on the 1st layer. easy enough to come off providing its on thin enough and only left around 1/2 hour otherwise its a complete plain.
as its a high temp sealant - synthetic wax if you wish - its also good for wheels as said and brakes if you wish.

post sealant



Front wheels as clean as I could get them. I was hoping to have had all day to do the car but got a phone call asking if I could run my sister down to pick up 2 rescue guiena pigs that she had offered to look after so that meant I didn’t have as much time as I wanted.



Wheels were washed using the shampoo mix from the second rinse, then coated with AG clean wheels, to try and remove some of tougher brake dust – the wheels haven’t been cleaned properly since feb, and the porker pads are dust crazy – wheels were also detarred as well as AG tar remover would work (not that great) followed by claying. I wasn’t happy with the cleanliness of the wheels, hense the 1 coat of sealant. The good thing about picking up these pigs meant that I had a chance to swing by my local autosmart dealer and pick up 5ltrs of autosmart tardis. Hopefully this will help remove the really stubborn tar and clean the other 2 wheels up. I really should have taken pics on the inside of the wheels will get some when i do the rears

one other issue i found was this

not impressed !! isnt too bad, looks worse in the photo as it was the only angle i could photograph it and get it to show
bout time mate:bigsmile:
but do you really want that extra power in this weather?

yup best way to learn :toung:
that and if i didnt do it now then the money would just be wasted on something else - most likey would buy something outside my needs for the PC

only thing is ive had a text from awesome saying about a reminder for my appointment tomorrow :amazed: i hope not as the conformation says the 9th on it. early phone call tomorrow i thinks
i take it you like the extra power then:amuse:

i did tell you many moons ago it transforms the car
and its also nice having a 6th gear that is now usable instaed of just for cruising:D
yup still trying to get used to it, more responsive before the boost kicks in as well.

didnt try out 6th but found myself going through the town in 5th when i came back, felt fine and i never noticed until the lights, used to find 4th was fine from that way as its slightly down hill otherwise it feels sluggish so got to admit that was nice. also nice watching the boost needle actually go somewhere now.

might have an answer to your question but need to try and get a photo for you
nah didnt think about booking it on the RR, that and being scottish i saved £ because of it lol. did a butt dyno a few weeks ago using the diagnostic port as thought i may have had a leak so going to do another run next week and see what difference there is - although i have heard that it may not give a true reading after mapping.

also should have got the spring kit for the DV while i was there to save postage but forgot about it until i was halfway home

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