More Seat Cupra Tuning tips wanted

t32er

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seat leon
hiya guys i have a 2001 cupra lowered 50mm all round and a nice set of R32 wheels in black and a bit of a odd tire size on the rear (255/35) looks nice from the back and levels the car up as was a little high still at the back end with the 225/40. iv got a N75J valve fitted lightend belt pullys fitted (need help with them), a stainless steel mash air filter(starting not to like it) receric valve, knife edged the butterfly and taken about 1.2mm off the throtle bod wall+ smoothed and polished the inside of it. i try and do all the work my self but would like some more ideas on what i could do next in my drive way lol. i do have a couple of Q's mind first 1 i have fited some ally belt pullys but not sure how to get the alternatet one off??? also does any one know what boost pressure it should be running standard?? iv just fitted a boost gauge and with the TC off its maxing out at 10psi and dropping a little with TC on? is this norm? what should it be boostin to as iv read diff things some saying 8 and others going up to 13psi
thanks guys hope to hear from some one soon
terry
 
I bet it sounds nice at full throttle.

Which power engine do you have? The boost varies a little from model to model. the 10psi sounds about right, over 12 and I believe the ECU will go into limp home mode unless it is remapped.
 
on the 150 engine its supposed to be around 8psi and on the 180 enigne around 10.5 psi
waynne is corrected on the 180 engine around 12 psi the ecu goes into limp mode.

id say go and get a new exhaust for it including sprts cat, have a look at miltek.
also look at fitting a 4 bar FPR along with a cupra R,S3 or tt225 inlet manifold ( intake is on the right rather than left ) fuel rail and injectors, this will allow you to fit a front mount intercooler without having to run the pipe back along the length of the FMIC to get to the air intake, shorter run so less lag

then go get it remapped on a rolling road see what it comes back with
 
guys thanks for the info on the boost im on the 180bhp engine. it does sound nice when she stems off down the road and looks grate too in motion. but it sounded alot better with my old VIPER filter on it but lent it my mate to try it on a vr6 then he smashed the car up when testing it, oops. my fpr is running around 3.8bar at the min (my sis B/F is a mechanical genius) but i have been thinking 225 inlet but i would have to lengthen some of the pipes and i wasnt sure about the throt bod as it fly by wire didnt thin it would reach?? i have a huge F/M cooler to fit i was goinig to turn the pipe around at the back of the engine bay so it bent to the pas side then go over the rocker and down to the cooler then back in to the throt. is the bore size any bigger in the 225 inlet?? i have a full de-cat to fit but un sure of it at the min) along with a back box but i have to be carfull with noise as i live 300 yard from a police station and they didnt like the 5inc box i had on my old scooby (was a bit loud)
is ther any mods i can do to the standard turbo at all?? bore out the inlet on it etc?? have also been thinking of making sure the manifold ports are all the same size on the engine as the mani and gaskit etc...
i really enjoy working on it and learning more about it and how this engine works as i dont know a lot about the 20vT engines
 
You could create a hybrid where you use different internals to alter the boost characteristics. Ball bearings in turbos are much better than those thrust bearings, they last longer spool up more quickly and run cooler.
 
yeah the K03s turbo - midway between the k03 and k04 youve got is only good for around 230 bhp before it overspeeds in its standard form

like waynne says you can get swap it for a hybrid or another option is some places will bore it out and fit the rest of the K04 internals, again they may be able to fit ball bearings. other than that its a big turbo upgrade.

dont think theres any difference in the bore fo rthe inlet manifold just that is on the other side. this means you can still use the standartd way of the plumbing ( turbo to drivers wing, doing away with the SMIC.) then through the front mount and up the other side.
 
i have just fitted ny mew zorst and got my self a remap - best thing i have done!!! she is boosting to and holding around 14-17psi AMD i did aroumg 32 mile om mearly mo fuel atall!! id recomend it to any one with a turboed car!!
next up will be the fmic, playing with the actuator pos get a boost controler and will be doing the "map sensor trick" if needed!!:rolleyes:
will also be painting all my plastics and might mesh the grills as my main grill is now broken
 
Whats the MAF trick ?, only thing i have heard about is fitting one from Merc Benz, but all the info i found goes towards the diesels, nothing on the petrols.

wouldnt bother with a boost controller as boost is electronically controlled by th N75 valve, replacing this is supposed to be an right pain to do with a manual controller as increasing it too much will mean that the ECU will go into limp mode. eg my ecu as standard limits the boost to 1800mbar (0.8 bar, ~10 psi (this includes 1000mbar as atmospheric)) most ive recorded is 1780mbar if it does go over the 1800 the engine goes into limp.
it would depend on what your tuner has givin you for clearance.
an easier idea would be to uprate the standard N75 ( think its F thats in yours as standard) to the N75j valve from the more powerful engines as this holds the boost slightly longer, bit hit and miss as some have said its fantastic others said it put the car into limp mode of full boost. or if you fancy ECS do a race frequancy valve as a replacement that holds the boost up to 3psi higher over the power band.
not had any experiance of ethr as im looking at changing mine before it gets remapped
 
victor the one i know about is getting the maf from a MB (will need to find out the part number) and shave the rods down a few mm. its slightly more efficiant but not much difference unless you current maf on its way out.
 
victor the one i know about is getting the maf from a MB (will need to find out the part number) and shave the rods down a few mm. its slightly more efficiant but not much difference unless you current maf on its way out.

:embarrest:should read posts a little better me thinks. but don't think i'll be going down this route.
 
a-ha if i told you all i would have to kill the lot of ya lol
i will share this info but only once, and will need some info back as im unsure on 1 thing so...
first is the map sensore the one at the intercooler?? (i know the tric but dont know where the wires are)
and b4 i go on to spoil the magical trick of extra boost with out a hint of limp mode
im all ready running a n75J but if i disconnect the 2 pipes running to it BUT leave it pluged in AND still in the inlet you can run a manual boost controller purfectly-if i do do this tho i spose i have wasted £50 on the N75J so will prob leave it for now!!
any way moving on
The "map hack" as i like to call it tho i cant beleve you not heard of it is so simple will cost around £3.00 and take 10mins to 2 hours depending on how ya wana do it.
when the boost gets to about 12psi the MAP senser sends a 5 volt signal to the ECU that trigers it to go in to limp mode, if you splice in to the MAP sensor wires and add a 4.7 volt diode or a 4.3 (a diode is like a resistor but only lets current go 1 way) it will only send a max signal of 4.7 or 4.3 volt to the ecu. as the ecu is only seeing 4.7v/4.3v max it wont go in to limp and you will actually be at some where around (4.7 v) 18-19 psi of boost and 4.3v is around 13psi i think!! fantastic yea??

rather than me spending all night writing a how to guid i will get the link to the only 2 write ups i have found about it also got some instructoin on there on the 3 diff ways of doing it etc ie both a 4.3v and 4.7v on a switch so can toggle between them or 1 diode with on/off switch or just 1 diode running in-line and no switch

check it out and let me know what ya think or even if you do it ya self??!!
enjoy and happy boosting lol

instructions are on this one
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1484504
 
where my response gone??
christ i just done a huge reply and its not hear??
will start it again tomora
 
seen it before but didnt want to try it, if the ECU thinks its doing 17 psi of boost itll inject enough fuel for 17psi. this is fine in normal terms however if its doing 20psi and only showing 17psi it could be running slightly lean
 
have done some research on this,
seems its fine until the set value of 14 psi on the 4.3 version, 17 psi 4.7.
after this point you need to adjust the fueling as nessessary,
this also requires the use of a manual boost controller and a seperate solinoid to control the wastegate fully. this can also cause issues if the ecu notices the N75 valve not working properly
 
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