Making an engine stronger

By rebuilding it with quality parts including forged pistons and rods ARP head and mains studs adding a main bearing girdle if the particular motor does not already have one, tunnel boring the mains and cryogenic treating everything including the block and torque plate honing the block.
Balancing everything that rotates along with careful assembly and if turbo-ed using a MLS head gasket.
You can also use a copper head gasket in lieu of the MLS along with gapless"O" ringed cylinders in the block deck.

I would also install a wind-age tray and crank scraper if the car is to be tracked plus a baffled larger oil capacity sump.

Then run it in as per motorman's recommendations.
 
Still don't know anyone as of yet who have had their engine cryogenically treated, I gather it is the thing to do though for strength.
 
On my own car. The Block machined for oil jets to go to the correct places not as Ford thought they should go ;). New oil entry at back of Block as oil starvation back there is a problem. Dry Sump system to help a bit more. 8mm Longer rods to get optimum rod angle remember the Cosworth blocks ancestry is from the 1960's . In Big BHP application fit a stronger not lighter crank. Vibration rattler on front of crank & a another elsewhere on the assembly (Its secret). Block also machined for stainless wire rings . The rods are arrow & crank by DKR. The pistons are unique to this application made in the States by CP. Every thing is balanced both singular & as assys at Vibration Free. Titanium Long studs at £1000 for a set try to keep the head down using a multilayer gasket. That's about as good as it gets for a YB & has taken many years of research. Everything is Spec. for 1000bhp & a lot of praying it will take 40secs at WOT on its record attempts.
 
Still don't know anyone as of yet who have had their engine cryogenically treated, I gather it is the thing to do though for strength.

Os it's said to make the block more stable and reduce deformation in extreme HP motors.
 

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