Lowering the Rear o.0

Jaydm1

New member
Points
26
Location
Birmingham UK
Car
Sierra GL
Does anyone happen to know how to lower the back end of a 1983 Ford Sierra? its just a 1.6 GL atm, but i have plans, i dont know if i need to get a new part or if i can modify the existing part, any advice would be appreciated, thanks! :D

Actually there is some other advice i am looking for also, i want to make the engine better but i dont know how to do it, at the minute its pretty gutless lol, its just a 1.6 Pinto, and it has white smoke at the back, it used to be black untill i messed with the air/fuel thing at the back of the carb and changed the idle speed, it sits at about 1k when its warm, but if you give it a few revs it drops white smoke out of the exhaust, is that normal? is there anything i can do to make it better? i read in another post about a Carb from a 2.0gt cortina and a camshaft, but i wouldnt know where to get them from, if i just change that stuff will it be quicker? or will there be other things i need to do also? thanks in advance :)
 
Last edited:
Depends on how far you want to go. 30 or 40mm can be achieved simply by replacing springs with uprated shorter versions. The dampers have enough spare movement to cope with this.

More than this and you may encounter problems. The diff is mounted to the chassis so does not move with the suspension. The standard CV joints have a limited movement and may causes problems, but this can be checked by moving the suspension through its full travel with the dampers and springs removed.

The front can lowered the same way but check for the tyres hitting the wing lip when turning and/or hitting a bump.

On a car of this design and performance the detrimental effects to the steering geometry will be minimal. However, it would be advisable to get a full geometry check done, or at least the front tracking. The lowering will have changed the angular relationship between the steering rack and track rod end, thereby increasing the toe-in as the rod end is attached to the axle in front of the suspension leg.

With regard to the engine, don't bother doing anything to the 1.6. Spend the money you would have spent on a 2.0 Pinto. This will feel a lot faster than the
1.6 and is a straight swap. If you feel brave and the 1.6 clutch is better than the one you get with the 2.0, swap the 1.6 clutch and flywheel onto the 2.0. The clutch (if in good condition) will cope with a standard 2.0 and the lighter flywheel will add a little more zip.

The 2.0 Pinto is good for up to 150+bhp without spending a fortune. More is possible but the cost spirals. Go to www.burtonpower.com and request their catalogue. It explains what is possible with this engine.

if you decide that you want a lot more power but decide to stick with the Pinto, you need to talk to the Harris' at http://www.hpemotorsport.co.uk/. They are the acknowedged kings of the Pinto. What they don't know about tuning these engines just isn't worth knowing.
 
Last edited:
Awesome, thanks for your advice, i just have to source some springs and the engine i have already bought :D but now i have a new problem, i lost the keys, and i want to change just the ignition barrel where the key goes, but i dont know if i can take it out without the key, is this possible? and if so does anyone have any idea how to do it? i have a spare key for the passenger door so i can still access it, but the steering wheel has a clamp on it which i will also need to get off, i changed the locks over this morning so i dont have to get in and out of the passenger door all the time. just need that ignition barrel out :( does anyone have any suggestions? thanks in advance. :D
 
I'm pretty sure you need the ignition key to remove the lock barrel. You could get a complete ignition switch plus barrel from a breakers yard with a key and then just change the barrel on that.
 
ok, thank you for helping :) in the end i cut the steering clamp off, and a neighbour had an ignition barrel off his old LDV so i just wired that up, took the steering wheel off and put a pin in the steering lock to stop it from coming down while im driving, just a temp fix atm, untill i can get a proper barrel and such, i even tried to get a auto locksmith to create a new key using an impression from the barrel but it was too expensive..
 

Please watch this on my YouTube channel & Subscribe.


Back
Top