Induction kit fail

MattTheJanner

New member
Points
16
Location
United Kingdom
Car
Mazda 3 TS2 1.6
Hi there!

Just so we are all aware, my car is the 2010 model Mazda 3 1.6 petrol TS2

Recently I tried installing a ripspeed universal air filter into my car. After about 15 minutes my car started slowing down and going into a slog. It slowed down until a point where we could turn the engine on, but it would lose revs and stall.

Me and my mate reckon it was the MAF sensor, or basically that it didn't like the amount of air being dragged through in comparison to the stock filter. My car didn't throw any codes out when we tried to do a reading. Is there a solution in another induction kit? I don't want to fork out for something that won't work.
 
Did you remove anything from the OE set-up that may have contributed to the emissions etc? ANy other pipes not connected or maybe blocked off? Remember these Ripoffspeed items are generic units and not bespoke, so will not be perfect. Refit the OE system and see what happens, bet it is okay :blink1:
 
Did you remove anything from the OE set-up that may have contributed to the emissions etc? ANy other pipes not connected or maybe blocked off? Remember these Ripoffspeed items are generic units and not bespoke, so will not be perfect. Refit the OE system and see what happens, bet it is okay :blink1:
We literally just removed some plastic casing (tube shaped) that went from the front of the car to the stock air filter. Then we slotted the filter on the end of that casing. I get the feeling it could be either there was too much air or not enough perhaps.

*not a car person, but trying to learn* :D

I was going to try a K&N air filter, the issue I have is that there doesn't seem to be an induction kit that is specifically for my model.
 
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You did remove the existing air filter? So replaced this with the ripspeed one onto the thottle body etc? If so it should work all the same. But does sound like no air getting through at all.
 
You did remove the existing air filter? So replaced this with the ripspeed one onto the thottle body etc? If so it should work all the same. But does sound like no air getting through at all.

We did remove it, i'll ask my mate whether it went back in or not. Hopefully not!

Basically in my mazda, you have the flat air filter inside some plastic casing. The case branches of into a tube which joins at the front of the car, presumably to a vent. We took off the tube which connects the vent to the air filter and stuck the ripspeed airfilter where that tubing went.

If we had the other filter in, that would explain things. I'm tempted to believe perhaps a cold air feed to the filter may have worked slightly better.

I'll try and find a picture to show you :).
 
Sounds like the new filter is some how choking the throttle body, I think as Stamford mentioned. Have you tried starting the car filterless?
 
Got it spot on there Loz. Oil filter are terrible for the little wire inside MAF sensors. Especially on Scoobies.

FAO Matt the Janner.

It's sounds like the you dont have a filter connected in the right place at all (i'm sure the pics will clarify) But basically with these cone filters, you need to remove the air box for the original filter and the piping it connects to for the bumper feed. Then the new cone filter sits on the end of the MAF sensor like this:...

I know it's a different car but gives you an idea...

P1030068.jpg
 
Got it spot on there Loz. Oil filter are terrible for the little wire inside MAF sensors. Especially on Scoobies.

FAO Matt the Janner.

It's sounds like the you dont have a filter connected in the right place at all (i'm sure the pics will clarify) But basically with these cone filters, you need to remove the air box for the original filter and the piping it connects to for the bumper feed. Then the new cone filter sits on the end of the MAF sensor like this:...

I know it's a different car but gives you an idea...

P1030068.jpg

Couldn't quite find the right picture, might take one but in response to what you have said. I'm not sure it would make sense to move the air filter so it's basically right next to the engine. Then it would just suck in hot air, rather than cold. Having said that, if that is all that works then fair enough.

I'm gonna have a look at some videos and take into account what you have said but the likelihood of it is that I'll be getting a new Merc in 2014/15. So I might wait. It looks like i'm gonna be sitting on 200bhp with a 2.2l diesel...So...That would be nice! :p
 
Mine is coupled with a cold ram feed from the bumper and the cone filter has a heat shield. Did tests when the ecu was race tuned by sticking a flat type temp gauge inside to check the intake temp and it was lovely and cold, even on a warm day :)
 
This is probably the latest comment in the world however I'm guessing you've sorted this out now.

If you removed the "tube" that goes from the air filter to the engine and fitted the new universal one directly to the engine intake port then the reason the engine is cutting out is that the MAF sensor is attached to the tube that you have removed. What you have basically done by the sound of it is remove all of the tubing and and casing for air intake unit and bolted a filter onto the engine?

If this is the case then all you would need to do is put the OE unit back on, remove the casing for the panel air filter and attach the new intake onto the existing tube. This should solve the problem.

Anyway like I said you have probably sussed this out by now but I haven't been on in ages and just wanted to try and be helpful!
 

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