I.C.E Reccomendations

Puntopimp

Track Warrior
Points
162
Location
Dover, Kent
Car
1.8 TDCI Ford S-Max
Morning all ( Just! )

I've Been looking at ICE For the car But I want something a bit Unique! and Less Halfords.

Can Someone Recommend some ICE for my car I'm looking for one of those LCD Screens which combine Stereo, Sat Nav e.t.c. in one and also at for e.g. Inside Car Lighting e.t.c. you get my drift

Anyone got any ideas???
 
Well TBH I have no limit with this new job of mine obviously Sensible moneys

I hate the layout of that website its Stupid! No proper co-ordination of a product list always comes back to they projects with bentleys and things like that

I'm thinking anything up to £700 overall for a nice set up
 
Well it does seem to be a bit OTT i can't just click on latest products without it mentioning a Bentley or another silly half million pound car I just want a Picture of the Product on its own an showing its compatability
 
thanks a bunch TN already seen a Sub box Package Deal they are doing which is a really impressive piece of kit 1200W of it!!
 
I'm thinking anything up to £700 overall for a nice set up

:blink::amazed:

£700?? Are you planning on doubling the value of your car?? I would be hard pushed to spend that on mine, let a lone (no offence) an old Punto. I recon for that money you could put a full Kenwood head unit, amp, 4 door speakers, 2 self 's and a sub for that.

Whats your security like on your car? Do you have an alarm on it? If your looking at spending that I'd get a cat 1 fitted or inform your insurance so you can claim it back ''when'' it gets nicked. What is your address again...!!! :lol::lol:
 
Where you buying that lot from for £700? :blink:
Kenwood are pants anyway. Far better manufacturers out there.
And also insurance should cover upto a grands worth of audio anyway.


:blink::amazed:

£700?? Are you planning on doubling the value of your car?? I would be hard pushed to spend that on mine, let a lone (no offence) an old Punto. I recon for that money you could put a full Kenwood head unit, amp, 4 door speakers, 2 self 's and a sub for that.

Whats your security like on your car? Do you have an alarm on it? If your looking at spending that I'd get a cat 1 fitted or inform your insurance so you can claim it back ''when'' it gets nicked. What is your address again...!!! :lol::lol:
 
Where you buying that lot from for £700? :blink:
Kenwood are pants anyway. Far better manufacturers out there.
And also insurance should cover upto a grands worth of audio anyway.

Used as an example Mr TN. Not all insurance covers ICE. I wouldn't spend much more than that on a full kit.

£200 head unit
£200 Sub
£100 4 x door speakers
£100 2 x shelf speakers
£100 Amp

sorted
 
You don't want rear shelf speakers if there is going to be a sub in the boot.
I'm not saying you can't do it for that price if you shop around but I wouldn't go with Kenwood.
Also you want to be looking at the best headunit you can afford. This needs to be top of the list of things to spend that little bit extra on.
All the speakers and amps in the world will sound rubbish without a decent headunit.
 
You don't want rear shelf speakers if there is going to be a sub in the boot.
I'm not saying you can't do it for that price if you shop around but I wouldn't go with Kenwood.
Also you want to be looking at the best headunit you can afford. This needs to be top of the list of things to spend that little bit extra on.
All the speakers and amps in the world will sound rubbish without a decent headunit.

100% disagree!!

Your amp is your most important bit of kit. Your head unit could be terrible, but with a good amp it can pull it off. A poor amp, and your sound will sound terrible. A bad head unit and you will just need to slow down a bit when going over speed bumps.

Wires are quite important too. Low impedence is important.
 
Amps will only come into it if your using them to power midrange speakers or tweeters.
If you just using an amp for a sub then it's not much of an issue. And unless your going for an spl comp setup then the headunit will be more than enough to power a decent set of components. ;)
Headunit is the most important part of an ice install.
You build a system round your headunit.
Quality cables are a must as well. They play a much bigger part than people think.
 
Class d amps use the power much more efficiently and produce a good output of power.
My last amp was a 1200 RMS class d amp at 2 ohm.
I ran it at 1 ohm and it was producing 2400 watts RMS pure bass.
 
Lifted from another forum cause I can't be bothered to type an essay. :toung:



I'll take a stab. MOSFETs are a type of transistor - the device that generates the power to the speaker. The other types of devices that do the same thing are tubes and bipolar transistors. Each have their pros and cons. they are usually run in a class A or class AB types of amplifiers. The class is they way the transistors/tubes used to generate the power.

Class D is a different animal altogether. A and AB are analog amps - sine wave in = sine wave out only bigger. A class D amp, also known as a digital amp, turns the sine wave in put to a series of pulses whose width correspond to the amplitude of the pulse then the pulses are amplified and run through a low pass filter to get rid of all the nasty edges and turn it into a sine wave only bigger. The benefit is much higher efficiency so the power supply can be smaller and the heat generated is less, which theoretically will translate in smaller and/or cheaper amps, such as the EA and Clarus models (smaller but *not* cheaper). Class A and AB amps are easier to design, and to most people sound better (always subjective), and usually don't have noise and RF issues like class D amps can.

That's the basics, hope it was somewhat understandable.

On a side note, digital power supplies and all-ditigal amps are different too. The digital power supply is again smaller and more efficient. A digital amp, say Line6 pod, is an amplifier that turns the input from the instrument into a digital signal and does all of the effects and tone shaping digitally (in a computer basically) and then turns it back into an analog signal at the output of the amp.


And a second explanation again from another forum.



Typically Class-D will be smaller, lighter, and more efficient than an equivalent standard "analog" power amplifier, whether the analog amp uses mosfets or bipolar transistors, or tubes.

Good Class-D is very good fidelity-wise. The best class-D is as good or better than the top audiophile Class-A, class-AB, Class-H etc amplifiers.

A Mosfet used in the linear mode as a traditional "class AB" power amp is, well, an analog amplifier.
In general, they are larger, hotter, heavier, and less efficient. At worst, well over half the input power simply becomes heat that must be dissipated, so the efficiency can be well under 50%. So they require a larger transformer (or other power supply), large heatsinks, usually fans, etc.

Most, if not all, class-D amplifiers also use MosFets*. I don't know of any current one that does not.
A class-D amplifier produces output pulses instead of a continuous waveform, and uses an output "reconstruction filter" to re-create the analog waveform from the pulses. Since the pulses occur at rates in the range of several hundred kHz to over 1 mHz, to your ear it is continuous.
For various technical reasons, it is more efficient to do that, it wastes less power, creates less heat, etc. Efficiency can easily be well over 90%.
Transformers or other power supplies can be smaller, and heatsinks smaller, fans smaller if used at all, etc. Less heavy stuff to carry.

While class-G and class-H multi-level power supply type amplifiers can be more efficient than class-AB, the efficiency is still not that of class-D, and the units are considerably more complex.


My power supply was 0 awg Hdi.
 

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