how low is too low

wardyc

Tuner
Points
62
Location
Sydney, Australia
Car
Nissan Maxima 3.0L
lowering car tomoro
im thinking lowering so the gap between wheel arch and wheel is closed
which will be about a 2-2.5" drop
i want a nice low car, but not low so that speed bumps, and driveways will scrape on engine
would appretaite replys asap as its happening tomoro
 
id like an inch between my tyre and arch, and about 2 1/2 inch of the floor would be perfect for me
 
The thing to factor in is the suspension travel as well. Fitting much stiffer and shorter springs should prevent fouling on the arches, especially at the front.

You've not mentioned the current clearance between the sump and the ground. Wouldn't fitting larger wheels accomplish a filled out arch without lowering the car too much? Although this affects the gearing and speedo reading.

Normally I would say to drop a car 35-40mm but the Maxima has a bit more room to manoever perhaps 50 or 60mm of a drop will work, providing the springs are stiffer. Remember that a car will settle a bit after new shocks are added so it may well drop a bit more.

Ask the guy doing it what he thinks, he'll have the car to hand and will be able to take measurements.
 
thanks for replies
with the larger wheels, im not legally allowed to enlarge them by more than two inches on the rim size without engineering certificates
which is annoying
but by lowering it, itll be purely for looks really im aiming for a luxury sort of look on it
so yeh whatever is recommended for loosk without causing damage to car i think
 
if you can afford it look towards hydraulics or airbags.
this way you can adjust it as your going along. decked for when parked up ad high if you come along some bad roads
 
got it lowered today
dropped 45mm
unfortunatley instead of the cost of 550 i got told, i needed new shocks, and other stufff
so its now costing 1400
:(
oh well haha
 
ill put pics up soon
it drive So much better
handles corners extremely well
and loks quite nice
i just need wheels to make the body look nice and maybe touch up a bit of paint work
:)
 
I'm on 17s with a 110mm drop. I can't even fit my finger between my tyre and arch, but it doesn't rub what-so-ever and it looks the business!
 
if you can afford it look towards hydraulics or airbags.
this way you can adjust it as your going along. decked for when parked up ad high if you come along some bad roads

iv heard of air bags, how much they cost roughly
 
122434a67f3d465251.jpg


thats the car owered before and after shot :)
its about 1.5 inch lower so yee have a geez
 
Too low is when the car bottoms out on a car park ramp at 5mph.

THe lower you go, the stiffer everything has to be. This is not always good. You can find tyres pattering all over the place rather than staying in contact with the road.

For track use then you can massively stiffen everything, roll - the lot. But your average British road is not nearly so well maintained.
 
I know that I am repeating myself. but bear in mind that by lowering the car you are altering the suspension geometry, usually to its detriment. Excessive lowering will result in increased tyre wear due to the change in wheel camber. Remember to get the tracking checked as, unless your car has zero bump steer (unlikely), the toe in/out will probably have changed.
 
I know that I am repeating myself. but bear in mind that by lowering the car you are altering the suspension geometry, usually to its detriment. Excessive lowering will result in increased tyre wear due to the change in wheel camber. Remember to get the tracking checked as, unless your car has zero bump steer (unlikely), the toe in/out will probably have changed.

I'm pleased that you've clarified this for me. Car makers invest exorbitant amounts of money to ensure that the whole suspension/load/steering geometry will work effectively.

Without a doubt, it is possible to alter the overall ride height of any car, but doing so involves far more than simply fitting shorter coil springs and stiffer dampers.

This can often have the effect of reducing the contact patch that the tyres have with the road surface. Notwithstanding the static geometry, stiffer springs and dampers can cause the contact patch to change in shape. Overly stiff suspension can also reduce the amount of time that the tyres are in contact with the road surface.

Tyres that are not in contact with the road surface are doing nothing useful whatsoever.

Changing wheel rims and fitting tyres that maintain the same ride height can be beneficial; in some cases it allows more rubber in contact with the road more of the time. But you must make sure that the suspension can cope with the reduced compliance that a lower profile tyre offers.

I'm not saying that you shouldn't do it - I'm simply saying that if you're going to spend money to improve the quality of driving experience you might as well go all the way and make sure that you get a positive result from your investment.

It's possible to take a basic car and improve it's driveability and safety simply by having the worn and torn rubber bushes replaced; fit a set of quality tyres; check them weekly for any damage. After a couple of weeks (few hundred or so miles) get the car onto a full four wheel alignment system and have the geometry corrected. Start at the back if it's adjustable, and then get the fronts aligned to the thrust line.

There is no point in lifting a car and just aligning the front wheels to an arbitrarily line drawn straight along the f-r axis of the car.

That doesn't work. The steering will be uneven at best, off centre or even close to undriveable.

Suspension, alignment and geometry is far more complex than your average tuner thinks it is.
 
I'm pleased that you've clarified this for me. Car makers invest exorbitant amounts of money to ensure that the whole suspension/load/steering geometry will work effectively.

Without a doubt, it is possible to alter the overall ride height of any car, but doing so involves far more than simply fitting shorter coil springs and stiffer dampers.

This can often have the effect of reducing the contact patch..............................................Suspension, alignment and geometry is far more complex than your average tuner thinks it is.

Pretty much says it all, really.
 

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