Hey guys new the the site

GrizzlyB1991

Newbie
Points
1
Location
Oklahoma
Car
74 BMW 2002 2.0
Hi I'm Gary
I'm from Oklahoma. I have a 1974 BMW 2002 with a NA 2.0. I'm wanting to do some upgrades to get some more power out of it. What do y'all recommend. I'm putting a set of long tube headers on it and a performance exhaust but I thought about lightening a flywheel. Is that a good idea.
 
Hi Gary you seem to have a classic Beamer so I would want to keep it stock looking so Depending on how far you want to go I would be rebuilding the bottom end with forged pistons and rods that should be lighter and having the head recoed ,ported with larger valve with a sportier cam and the inlet and exhaust manifolds port matched.

Depending on how you intend to use the car for street use a 4 2 1 interference header of for track 4-1 with a mandrel bent system and straight thru mufflers.
 
Thank you for the feed back. So I'm kinda having a hard time figuring out this car. I have had it since I was 14 and I havent really been able to do anything with it. It has just set in a garage for year's and I have worked on other stuff. I'm used to building American muscle cars and hot rod trucks. But I really love my beamer its got that old skool rally car look and sound. And I like the offroad racing back ground and road course history of it. So thats kinda the set up I want. Leave the body stock and upgrade the rest to have that race car feel. Upgraded the suspension, brakes, wheels, tires, etc. But idk of anyone around here that messes with older beamer stuff to do my engine internals for me. Have any suggestions on what I should do.
 
IMO the basics of any piston engine remain the same regardless of type and it comes down to the prep and attention to all the little things when it comes to machining and assembly.

Any competent workshop that takes pride in the quality of their work should be able to rebuild your motor.
 
Ok thanks for the info. I'll do some digging on the engine shops around here and get the work done I'll have it port and polished and have the valves done bigger
 
Make sure that the block and head are hot tanked to remove accumulated gunk from the oil and water passageways and the crank counterweight ball bearings in them removed to clean out the oil galleries that will be there due to centrifugal force and have grub screws fitted in their place.

Have everything crack tested and make sure that the bores are torque plate honed as well.

Have the entire rotating assembly dynamically balanced and assembled with ARP Studs and bolts.

If possible replace the pistons and rods with forged items that will almost certainly be lighter as that will help response particularly in a NA car.

I would urge you to use Total Seal rings for better sealing and no/less blow by as well.

Just my 2 cents worth :)
 
Hello and a very warm, welcome to TorqueCars from me the admin, sorry for my slow reply.

Nice to have you along, I hope you're enjoying the site. Please start up a project thread and share your experiences with all our other members and I wish you all the best in your project.

Keep reading the articles on our site and this forum... you'll pick up loads of good common sense tips and don't be afraid to post questions, were all here to share our knowledge and experience.

We run a really fun and interesting car community and many have said we're the friendliest around, always ready to help out where we can.

Enjoy your time with us, post loads and feel free to ask any questions or begin new threads and discussions. We're always interested to hear your comments and views on our existing topics and in the hot polls.
 

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