Has anyone had a DPF removal on Saab TiD

[Neilman]

Hi all,
I hope all is good and you are enjoying the great weather.

Has anyone had a DPF removed and software update on there Saab TiD? Is this a good idea or not? I see a lot of companies are offering this and I wish to know if there are any long term detrimental Side effects. It sound almost too good to be true with MPG improvements and extra power.

My car has just done over 90,000 miles and has started suffering flat spots in the power curve of Turbo and recently limp home mode characterised by low power, no turbo. MPG went from 44 down to 37. I recently cleaned K and N air filter so its not that. It has been Tech 2'd and it is the DPF. I can't afford a new one as mini me 2 arrives shortly! Quick work I know .

My trusted Saab only specialist (not main dealer and he really is amazing, the only bloke I trust with my car) has said he will remove the DPF and basically pressure wash it to get the soot out (my simple laymans terms) although no guarantee what state the DPF will actually be in until he takes a look. Hence my questions above.

Anyone with actual experience of the DPF removal and long term comments and advice or companies that have a good reputation for this service on Saab diesels will be much appreciated.

Thanks and kind regards

Neil

 

[obi_waynne]

Theres some good info on this page that is worth reading http://www.torquecars.com/tuning/particulate-filter.php

In my mind it's all plusses.

 

[pgarner]

not on a saab but ive just had mines removed on my octavia due to it blocking up, too much fun after mapping it

In short ive noticed a slight increase in economy averaging around 48 now rather than 44 but that is with a stage 1 map as well didnt really get the chance to see what it was averageing just after the map. since dpf removal however i have seen better throttle response when the revs are above 2k below that theres still lag and a slight puff of smoke from the rear.

as long as its been mapped right then you shouldnt have any problems come MOT time with the smoke test. the only thing is if your tester is strignent they should now make sure that the emissions system hasnt been touched. however as this means every tester would have to know what cars have been fitted with a dpf and what/where it is. just in case my dpf case is still fitted its just the guts that have been removed

 

[Neilman]

Hi both,
firstly thanks to you both. Is there anyone you would recommend, more importantly avoid?

I have read the DPF article on here and it does raise a number of good points and questions. Let me explain the Saabs Symptoms and actions / behaviour.

When the car started to have a a couple of flat spots in the turbo range and not be as responsive, a few weeks ago I cleaned the air filter, this did not do anything to help. I was a bit surprised by this as basically 'the car feltlike it needed a Good Fart!' I added some additive for a diesel (not specifically for DPF) as I thought maybe the fuel lines injectors might be the cause although the care had a full service in February. Again no change MPG was still low 36mpg ( I hear some Petrol drivers crying at this stage ). The car then had the Engine managment light come on and go into Limp home mode on my wife mid overtake on a dual carriageway. I bought a standard air filter as I thought that maybe I had over oiled the K and N when cleaning. I took the car for a spin round the block and it seemed fine but with the ENGINE light still on. On a longer drive if i gave some heavy right foot the engine appeared to choke and go into Limp home ( no power form Turbo and very slow acceleration regardless of foot pressure). I turned the ignition off and then restarted the car at the traffic lights and power came back, turbo worked. weird. After seeing my 'Hero' (I hear Heather Small singing in a Miranda moment) who Tech 2'd my Saab he diagnosed the DPF and cleared the fault, unsure how long it would last. Sure enough car was fine on drive home and part way to work the next day the Engine light came back on and Limp Home mode. I pulled over restardted the car and drove to work between 2 -3k revs using turbo with some acceleration (not too heavy on the fuel pedal) and car seemed fine, well apart from EM light. I started to get a feel of how to drive the car. Its only 17 miles to work.

So after a few trips driving like this 2-3k revs the car appeared to be getting more responsive but with the EM light still on. Until start up this morning. No EM light! Really. Drive to work car seemed fine, responsive and MPG back up to 42mpg ish depending how lazy I am feeling given the traffic.

Obviously one trip does not make a trend but I wonder if the Saab has done its own Regeneration? It doesnt use an additive like Peugeot. Is it the fact that I had added additive that has cleared it? Being Cynical now, is this planned in the ECU at specific intervals as symptoms appeared to start at exactly 90,000 miles, making customers see the engine light and go to the dealer so that all the bad black sooty stuff is cleared out in a controlled environment. I wonder.

Time and a few more journeys will tell me if it is cured as I may be jumping the gun, fingers crossed the car has done its thing and that is what its meant to do. I will update if anyone is interested.

If it is not cured the DPF will get water blasted like a Convict in a Movie and if that fails the offending DPF will be removed and not replaced. Lucky for us Saab did do a few 'Airflow' models when DPF's were short in manufacture and maybe I could blag that or do what Pgarner suggests and make it look like its still there, with a Remap obviously!

I hope I havent bored you too much.

Kind regards

N

 

[admin]

Ignore anyone who thinks a DPF can be deleted with just a remap, if the hardware is not removed and changed it is still there and will still cause problems.

Locally, in Kent I'd recommend JFA automotive, but that is probably too far for you to travel.

 

[pgarner]

Check your handbook there might be something in it about regeneration. i was supposed to keep the cars somewhere between 1700 and 2300 rpm for at least 20 mins to help clear the dpf.
if it doesnt use an additive then chances are it cleans itself by injecting more diesel into itself. after combustion. the idea is the higher temp burns away the soot somehow. however this does leave the ash behind which is what eventually blocks it up.

Once it starts to block it will just be a time limit before its too bad to regenerate itself. i didnt even get that warning just bang no boost and wouldnt even start unless one of the sensors were removed

 

[Neilman]

Check your handbook there might be something in it about regeneration. i was supposed to keep the cars somewhere between 1700 and 2300 rpm for at least 20 mins to help clear the dpf.
if it doesnt use an additive then chances are it cleans itself by injecting more diesel into itself. after combustion. the idea is the higher temp burns away the soot somehow. however this does leave the ash behind which is what eventually blocks it up.

Once it starts to block it will just be a time limit before its too bad to regenerate itself. i didnt even get that warning just bang no boost and wouldnt even start unless one of the sensors were removed

That may explain the reluctance to start over the last few months and it sounding like a Spitfire backfiring as I turn the ignition key. Best get it off for a Jet wash, pull through then.

I will let you know how it goes.

Kind regards

N

 

[HDi fun]

Cleaning the MAF is worthwhile. Personally I'd get rid of the oiled K&N and fit a paper filter. You could also try a cerium based fuel additive which will lower the combustion temperature of accumulated soot and hopefully assist the regeneration of the filter.

I had an early DPF system on my 406 2.2 HDi which had a 6 litre additive tank. The ECU automatically administers a measured amount according to how much fuel is added when the tank lid is opened. These were less prone to clogging than the later passive types.

Jet washing it out is a good plan.

Are there any fault codes stored or warning lamps on?

 

[Neilman]

Cleaning the MAF is worthwhile. Personally I'd get rid of the oiled K&N and fit a paper filter. You could also try a cerium based fuel additive which will lower the combustion temperature of accumulated soot and hopefully assist the regeneration of the filter.

I had an early DPF system on my 406 2.2 HDi which had a 6 litre additive tank. The ECU automatically administers a measured amount according to how much fuel is added when the tank lid is opened. These were less prone to clogging than the later passive types.

Jet washing it out is a good plan.

Are there any fault codes stored or warning lamps on?

No fault codes now, Engine Management light was on. When my Hero Tech 2d the car and came up with a code, I did see it but can't remember the number, definitely said DPF. I also cleaned MAF, only by blasting some of those pressurised air cleaner over it. No solvents or anything. What is the best way to clean an MAF? I have temporarily fitted a standard air filter. Why would you suggest swapping out the K and N? Interested to know your thoughts.

N

 

[pgarner]

to clean the maf using some electrical cleaner, IPA, as the solvent will take any grease or oil off it.

 

[Neilman]

Hi,
I assume its a case of just spraying it through the MAF sensor section? I get a bit worried about taking apart little thin plastic things that look brittle and may break when my cluster bomb hands touch them!! Pgarner, what are your thoughts on the K and N in a diesel then? I have mine but would like to know yours.

I have been driving the car and it seems fine for the moment. The Manual doesnt say anything about how to regenerate the DPF. They want you to take it to the dealer I assume! The method of driving around at 2 to 2.5K revs constantly for a good few miles seems to be the recommended method for cars that do not add an additive to the fuel system.

I also found this in my searches to learn more. I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS and I will be passing this onto my main man when he takes teh DPF off to see what he thinks. I will post his comments when do. Although the method of removal is for a BMW the method of cleaning seems logical and appears to work and I would imagine will be common to DPF's of the nature on my Saab as neither the BMW or Saab use an additive. Just make sure the DPF is cold before you start pouring petrol back through it!!

http://forums.5series.net/diy-do-yourself-14/diy-maintenance-dpf-94725/

If I had the time I would give it a go but No 2 is due soon and my wife might not be so impressed when I have other things I apparently 'Need' to do! :blink1:
N

 

[pgarner]

yeah just spray it through. however alot of the time this is just a quick fix and a new maf will be required.

my views on the K&N is if they are lightly oiled then there shouldnt be a problem and may work out cheaper if your holding onto the car for a length of time. however there is no real point to getting the cones other than to try and drown out the diesel sound


not sure on that cleaning method but have heard of steam cleaning them