Doing Up My Car, Need Help

R

roryp15

Tuner
Points
62
Car
VW Golf Gt Tdi
Hi guys, not been on here in a while, the last time i was it was about my golf getting remapped and dastek blowing up the turbo. Anyways got new turbo on car and its SLOW! not getting any boost from turbo sturggling to get up some hills in 3rd gear. Anyways when it went on the dyno in dastek before the turbo blew they sayed it was running at 74 bhp and had a faulty MAF sensor. I replaced the MAF sensor the other week and apprently you need one straight from the dealer to get the best out of your car not just any MAF sensor, is this true?

Now i have my car back on the road i was going to sell it after the problems but to be honest i love it too much im going to keep it and do some things to it, heres what i need help with.

The car is a mark 4 golf gt tdi 110 with 112000 miles on the clock but engine, radiator was replaced at 85000 turbo replaced 300 miles ago.

MAF sensor

Is it ture i need to get one straight from the dealer so i get the one that is ment for the car not just any one?

Panel Filter or Induction Kit

Whats best here and why? Im not looking for sound im looking to help the car beath and the performance side, even though it will be minimal.

Exhaust

Going to put a 2 or 2.5 inch stainles steel exhaust ( like old R32 ) with De-Cat Pipe. Ive always liked this look and its always better to let the air get out quicker and i know its a basic mod to start with so going for Exhaust.

Intercooler

My car just now has a side mounted intercooler, i wont a front mounted one, how easy is it to change over and how much is a new intercooler?

Remap

Ill be getting all the work done by a place called star performace http://www.starperformance.co.uk/, ive heard this is the best place in fife ( county i live in ) to take a VW to for what ever reason, serive, tune up, rolling road etc. The have quoted 140 bhp from a 110 bhp. Will this just be a map downloaded straight on or do you think this would be a cutom map.

Wheels

4 brand new 18 inch low profile tyres and new set of alloys

Brakes

Need bigger breaks to help with increase in power, any ideas on good ones?

Turbo Upgrade

I was wanting to put a twin tubo on but was thinking of maybe just a bigger turbo, what other part will i have to replace to help the engine cope?

Engine Rebuild

Ive heard people say the car engine has been rebuilt etc. What does this mean? I was going to replace things like, pistons, valves, cylinders, battery, starter motor etc but i dont know what else would need replaced to keep the engine running great and be silmilar to anohter new eingine being put in.

Nitrous

I no it might seem silly engine rebuild then nitrous but ive always wanted some and will use it once in a blue moon so wont be used regularly. Was looking for 100 HP jets.

Can anybody tell me if ive put anything in the wrong order to be done? and how much approx it would cost for all the work? Also if you could give any additional information on any part, particularly the new engine components/ rebuild that would be great.

Thanks very much:)
 
Is this the same car you were dealing with a couple of months back?

if you're struggling uphill in 3rd then there are serious problems with the car.

Even in factory tune a TDi 110 Golf working properly should effortlessly climb hills in 4th or even 5th.

Overtaking uphill in 3rd should be effortless.
 
yeah same car was going in to get mapped but dastek blew the turbo so everything had to stop. Was going to sell it on but i love the car so much i would prefer to keep it and just go that extra mile and get it all sorted.

My mums citron C1 gets to 60 quicker than the golf, had relaced the MAF sensor and felt a very slight diffrence so was told at least i know thats what the probelm is but i need one from VW themselves not just a silly one that can be slapped on any car. The funny thing is it was working 100% fine before it went into dastek:confused:
 
Was it working fine though? How much experience do you have of different cars and model derivations?

A 1.9 TDi 110 Golf (pre PD models) will present a very lively driving feel if they're working correctly. Not necessarily fast at all but if you're noticing it's poor performance as a new driver then I think the car has some serious problems. You really need to get it working properly before spending any more money on mods and upgrades.
 
I've driven a few cars had a Saxo vtr with few mods for a year, had shot of 2.0 astra Sri, then just silly citreon c1 and suzuki jimney then had the golf since early march. When I got it it was working perfect wasn't super fast but wouldn't say it was slow by any means. Then went into fasten was told faulty MAF sensor BUT car was running fine. Went back to dastek and asked them to replace MAF sensor ( I provided ) then remap and my turbo blew. Spoke to a mechanic he sayed as the new MAF sensor was an "intermotor" one it's not ment for the car so very little if any diffrencecwill be felt. The thing I don't understand is I've had the new one and old one in the car and not felt much diffrence.
 
roryp15 said:
MAF sensor

Is it ture i need to get one straight from the dealer so i get the one that is ment for the car not just any one?
Yes you need the correct one for the engine, ie the one or the diesel is different to my 1.8 and again different to the wifes 1.6. not sure but i think there will be at least 3 for the diesels alone. non pd, low powered PD, and the High powered PD. if you need the actual part number give me a shout. i will need your engine code which can be found in the sticker on your service book / floor of the boot beside the spare wheel.

Price around £70-80


Panel Filter or Induction Kit

Whats best here and why? Im not looking for sound im looking to help the car beath and the performance side, even though it will be minimal.
Check the one youve got it its cleanish theres no point changing it. if its looking on its way out youve got the choise. both will give very minimal gains as the standard one flows pretty well. if you go for the panel filter and your air box is like this - black bit on the right hand side above the battery
2528680256_a22944b633.jpg
then you can go for the R32 air ducting parts. it costs around £40 and gets larger air in quicker. i noticed the difference with this and the standard filter. to give you an idea heres the snorkel - standard on the left R32 on the right
2556258558_cf8008ec55.jpg

panel filter £30
R32 mods - £40
Induction Kit (decent one) - £160


Exhaust

Going to put a 2 or 2.5 inch stainles steel exhaust ( like old R32 ) with De-Cat Pipe. Ive always liked this look and its always better to let the air get out quicker and i know its a basic mod to start with so going for Exhaust.

Standard exhaust, i think, is 2.25" so 2" would be more restrictive. most aftermarket ones are 2.5". watch yourself with the decat however as its a pain to refit for the MOT unless your friendly with the tester

exhaust - £340
Decat - £60



Intercooler

My car just now has a side mounted intercooler, i wont a front mounted one, how easy is it to change over and how much is a new intercooler?

not hard to change over but does involve cutting the front bumper up. as for price a forge front mount is round £700 this has both pipes on the same side.
Ebay will turn up small ones for around £100. only problem with these are the fact that you need to run the pipe back along behind the intercooler itself to get to the intake manifold. or completly redo the pipework from the turbo under the gearbox ( chance of scraping ).

Forge intercooler and pipework - £700
Cheap Ebay intercooler - £100
Pipework £50-100


Remap

Ill be getting all the work done by a place called star performace http://www.starperformance.co.uk/, ive heard this is the best place in fife ( county i live in ) to take a VW to for what ever reason, serive, tune up, rolling road etc. The have quoted 140 bhp from a 110 bhp. Will this just be a map downloaded straight on or do you think this would be a cutom map.

This could be just for the generic map however ask them if theres discount if you go custom. ie new turbo injectors exhaust etc
Remap - £250-400
Custom remap - £500-600

read the rest 1st as theres another option


Brakes

Need bigger breaks to help with increase in power, any ideas on good ones?

how much you willing to spend ? what size are the standard ones?
if they are 288mm 5 stud then the easiest route is to go with the 312mm setup from the later golfs. these require only the discs and carriers the callipers are the same. if its the smaller brakes on it (26? mm) then youll need new hubs as nothing else will fit.
big cheapish upgrades are
once the 312mm discs are on upgrade the calipers and carriers to porsche boxsters
R32 set up - 17" preferably 18" alloys min. these can be picked up for around £400
Brembo setup off the cupra - unsure what these will go for bbut would reckons slightly more than the R32 ones as they are more rarly sold

more expensive options are
New brembo setup - roughly £1k
New porsche boxter setup -£800
911 setup - mega expensive

prices for the 312mm Setup

312mm carriers - £80-100
312mm discs - £150
Ferodo pads - £90


Turbo Upgrade

I was wanting to put a twin tubo on but was thinking of maybe just a bigger turbo, what other part will i have to replace to help the engine cope?

if you stick to the 130/150 diesel turbo in hybrid form you should be looking at around 220bhp and alot of torque. internals will proberly need uprated as not sure what they can cope with as its shares very little with the bigger version..

Proberly around the £1k mark for the rebuild



Engine Rebuild

Ive heard people say the car engine has been rebuilt etc. What does this mean? I was going to replace things like, pistons, valves, cylinders, battery, starter motor etc but i dont know what else would need replaced to keep the engine running great and be silmilar to anohter new eingine being put in.
Piston, rods, crank, valves, springs, guides, and all bearings cam might need done as well depending on wear

would recommed swapping the engine and ecu for the ARL engine before anything really, you can always sell the 110bhp engine to recoup some cost. this will give you 40bhp more to play with and better tuning abilitys without having to rebuild the whole engineto take more power

currently 2 on ebay.
1 engine only and the other from a seat (same setup) with the 6sp gearbox included

Nitrous

I no it might seem silly engine rebuild then nitrous but ive always wanted some and will use it once in a blue moon so wont be used regularly. Was looking for 100 HP jets.
Wouldnt bother with 100 jets it would be more advisable to stick to the lower 25 ones
Click to expand...

My replys should be in Blue
 
Last edited:
roryp15 said:
I've driven a few cars had a Saxo vtr with few mods for a year, had shot of 2.0 astra Sri, then just silly citreon c1 and suzuki jimney then had the golf since early march. When I got it it was working perfect wasn't super fast but wouldn't say it was slow by any means. Then went into fasten was told faulty MAF sensor BUT car was running fine. Went back to dastek and asked them to replace MAF sensor ( I provided ) then remap and my turbo blew. Spoke to a mechanic he sayed as the new MAF sensor was an "intermotor" one it's not ment for the car so very little if any diffrencecwill be felt. The thing I don't understand is I've had the new one and old one in the car and not felt much diffrence.
Click to expand...

You won't feel much difference if there are other problems besides.

Have you had the car connected up to a diagnostic computer?
 
HDi fun - It was on diagnostic done when at dastek on the dyno, they sayed it had a faulty MAF sensor and a hole in the flexi part of the exhust.

pgarner - Thanks alot for your info, was a massive help. Think i might get the engine rebuilt first before going to do anything else as that would make more sense would it not? Where will i be able to get Piston, rods, crank, valves, springs, guides? Or can you name any place that will fit them? How much should this cost and are these the main internal parts of the engine that may cause problems later?

Cheers :p
 
Has the faulty turbocharger been replaced?

PGarner is the definitive source of information for VAG cars - I've asked him about a Skoda Superb Elegance V6 I'm considering to replace my recently deceased Peugeot 406.
 
yeah the turbo was completly blowen and bolts and what ever else came flying out and fell off when the old one was taken off. So brand new turbo on. Think im going to go to VW and get a MAF sensor from them and see what they say, didnt know it would make such a big diffrence.
 
If the 3rd party MAF sensor is a compatible part and has the same electrical characteristics as an original then nothing will change.

MAF sensors are very simple devices in essence.
 
i thought they were pretty simple. I went into essport ( car accessories shop ) and ordered one, then after it was fitted ( after turbo blew ) the car hasnt been right but then i dont think dastek changed it ( i never had torx screwdrivers ) so i put the new one in and felt a slight diffrence which makes me think its the MAF sensor as ive spoken to 2 mechanics and they have both sayed i shouldnt have went to essport i should have gone straight to VW and VW are even cheaper.
 
This is all very circumstantial. If the MAF is electrically and thermally identical then it will work. MAFs work on a hot wire anemometer principle.
 
I thought it would work fine but spoke to two
mechanics and apparently not it's got to match up and be the one ment for the car not just anyone.

So how do I go about the engine rebuild. Basically I won't as close as I can to a new engine without physically replacing it. I also wouldn't mind these big blue or golf hoses if possible in the engine. Do I need a new ecu to go with the engine?
 
Unless there is any problem with your engine internals i wouldnt bother with a rebuild, you will be paying ££££ for virtually no gain

Just IMO
 
You won't need a new ECU unless the original one is faulty. It's highly unlikely for an ECU to work a little bit. THey're generally all or nothing devices.

One thought that does come to mind is this - get the whole ECU re-flashed with whatever is the latest code release from VW. It is possible that there is some corruption in the ECU which can be caused by electrical interference.
 
Only on for a short time tonight as going to work in an hour.
i recommended getting the other engine as it will be cheaper than a rebuild. the OEM parts you can get from VW, Audi, Skoda Seat but be warned itll be expensive. think your looking around £500 for the pistons along.
will try and get all the prices on monday for you and get them up just to show you .
 
The ecu will get new data once the car has been mapped so is there much point in getting it reflashed? I've been told 99% it's the MAF sensor so I'll change that first with the original part from VW and keep fingers crossed.

How much would it be for a brand new engine ?

I was looking to do a rebuild as it would be custom for my car and was looking at changing sone hoses etc ( you no on some big fancey cars you pop the bonnet and it's all shiney with mibye blue or gold hoses. Was wanting something like that aswell.

Would be great if you could get prices up, would help alot!!
 
I'm suggesting a re-flash to replace all the control data and executable code with a standard set of code from VW. The ECU contains far more stuff than just the numbers that are changed during the remap. This will also ensure that any old fault codes are reset, which might be causing your problem.

If you're planning a full mechanical rebuild anyway I don't understand youre resistance to doing this very obvious and low cost thing.

After all, what are you going to do if the MAF sensor doesn't make any difference?
 
ASV engine

Piston complete - cylinders 1 + 2
£238
Piston Complete - cylinders 3 + 4 - must be different somehow
£238

Conrods
£452
Conrod bearings
£16

Crank
£760

Flywheel and DMF
£748

Cylinder head - valves, springs, guides and cam
£941

total £3155

just an idea also if you want the larger Varible vane turbo from the 130 and 150 engines along with exhaust manifold add another £1200 thats before your loking at the larger intercooler pipework oil and water lines turbo inlet pipe.

see now why i recommended getting the more powerful engine anyway
 
Will an ecu redlash be as much as a remap?

Going to replace MAF sensor Thursday / Friday so fingers crossed.

Yea thanks pgarner. How much can I pick up a brand new engine with
more power than the 110 for? Would shoving say a 130 or 150 engine in effect any other compoents of the car that might cause them to blow ?

Am I better fitting the new engine before I go fitting exhausts, intercoolers, remaps etc?

Also is there any company in Scotland or very north England that will fit and supply new engine or will I have to buy it then get it fitted?

Thanks for all the help guys
 
I'm only suggesting that the whole ECU's non volatile RAM is reloaded with current (or latest) code and control parameters so that you can be confident that you're not experiencing problems that relate purely to that.

You could fit any number of other parts and still wind up with a car that basiaclly limps home simply as a result of some corruption of the ECU.

The non-volatile RAM used in ECUs is similar to the CF (compact flash) or SD (secure digital) tyre that is used in mobile phones, PDAs and such. Such memory is not immune to errors, bit changes, checksums etc can become corrupt.

I work in IT as a consultant. Such types of memory (including USB sticks etc) have not yet been proven to be immune to interference from external sources. Neither has optical WORM media been proven to be sound. Simply because it's not been around for long enough to be proven so.

A full ECu reflash to factory spec could well give you a btter chance to determine where the problem(s) lie. If, indeed, there are any.

It's a bloody sight cheaper than an engine rebuild

roryp15 said:
Will an ecu redlash be as much as a remap?

Going to replace MAF sensor Thursday / Friday so fingers crossed.

Yea thanks pgarner. How much can I pick up a brand new engine with
more power than the 110 for? Would shoving say a 130 or 150 engine in effect any other compoents of the car that might cause them to blow ?

Am I better fitting the new engine before I go fitting exhausts, intercoolers, remaps etc?

Also is there any company in Scotland or very north England that will fit and supply new engine or will I have to buy it then get it fitted?

Thanks for all the help guys
Click to expand...
 
roryp15 said:
Will an ecu redlash be as much as a remap?

Going to replace MAF sensor Thursday / Friday so fingers crossed.

Yea thanks pgarner. How much can I pick up a brand new engine with
more power than the 110 for? Would shoving say a 130 or 150 engine in effect any other compoents of the car that might cause them to blow ?

Am I better fitting the new engine before I go fitting exhausts, intercoolers, remaps etc?

Also is there any company in Scotland or very north England that will fit and supply new engine or will I have to buy it then get it fitted?

Thanks for all the help guys
Click to expand...


Base engine without ancillaries - manifolds, turbo, starter, alternator etc
£6902

if your fitting the 130 or 150 engine you will need the ECU and engine wiring loom as dot know if these are the same - every part is separate on etka and im not checking 100 parts against 2 engines.
any garage should be able to fit it for you as itll just be a lift out drop in job for the main. however youll need to get the immobiliser codes from the ECU and match them up to the instrument panel and then the keys before the engine will start properly
only other thing is the brakes may need changed but this is no biggy as you were going to change them anyway
 
Ki had know idea that engines were that expensive. I got told they were about 1500-3000. Anyways just been to star performance. I've to book it in then they shall run it on the computer and see what's going wrong with it.

As for performance he thinks I should go for a stage 2 turbo first then get the remap software downloaded.
 
nope second hand engines go for that.

also found out the 130 bhp and 150 bhp dont share the exact same turbo they are very similer however.

going for an aftermarket turbo 1st is fine is youve got the money. looked at mines being made hybrid to allow 280-300 bhp (stock acording to VW is only 220) cost roughly £800 then ive to fit the thing and then map it. a full aftermarket one will set me around £1-1200 not including custom manifolds etc to fit the thing. then need to map

the remap software downloaded worries me a bit. if your putting on a big turbo then you really should be getting custom mapping done.
also your clutch WILL need uprated if your doing this
 
Been looking up engine rebuilds on google just to try get a bit more information. Heres to answers i found.


The most common parts that get replaced are the main crankshaft bearings, connecting rod bearings, piston rings and, naturally, all the gaskets and seals. Depending on how much wear there is in the cylinders, it may be necessary to bore them oversize and install oversized pistons. Other parts are replaced as required.


Typical new components:
  • Gaskets
  • Piston rings
  • Lifters
  • Camshaft
  • Oil pump
  • Timing chain, gears, belt
  • Connecting rod bearings
  • Main bearings Pistons
  • Valve train components
So how many of these should be replaced ? and this might sound a silly question but whats the cylinder head or engine block ?


 
If your bores don't need re-boring, you can re-use the pistons (as long as they aren't damaged in some way) and just change the rings. They're not meant to wear. You can keep the rods, and the crank if there's no wear. and cams too.

Unless your head is damaged you won't need a new one either. Just rebuild.

As said, unless there is something wrong with your existing engine, you won't really see any gain from a straight-forward rebuild.

In simple terms block is the bottom end of an engine, that the pistons, crank etc are found in. Cylinder head is the top bit with all the valves etc in.
 
I'm not doing the rebuild to get more power as such.

I have been told buy a mate who I bought the car off it had a brand new engine put in at 85000 miles along with a new turbo and radiator. I had been told by someone else who looked up dvla records that it had an engine change but when dastek blew up my turbo they had bits from the engine off and sayed it looked far to factory like to be a new engine and spoke to another previous owner who had no idea it had a new engine .

So I'm doing the rebuilt just incase it hasn't and the car has done 112000 so just replacing the parts that need done just to keep life in the engine and also upgrading certain parts to make sure nothing blows when it's getting the performance side done.
 
got my car fixed :D turns out it was the MAF sensor ( thank god ) and was only £60 from VW.

So im still keeping the car and decided to rebuild some of the engine or replace it with a reconditioned one.

Rebuilt - Earlier in this post Pgarner listed parts for the rebuilt and prices ( thanks veyr much :D ) and yeah its not cheap. So can anyone tell me any websites ? where i can buy the parts for an engine rebuild, pistons, piston rings, valves, timing belts, gaskets etc.

Replace - I was going to put a reconditioned engine in as ive heard its basically a new engine anyways and you can pick them up for like £800. Any ideas on what websites i can get these. Also is it possible to put a 150bhp engine in ?

Thanks for any help:p
 
It says there's a problem with the server, does eurocarparts normsly work?

Anyother sites where I can get parts / quotes from aswell?

Also where can I buy a reconditioned engine from?
 
so how easy is it to fit the 150 engine?

Ive heard you can pick them up at scrap yards for few hundred bucks?

I was going to run the car how it is just now ( 110 bhp ) and fit a cold air intake, 2.5 straight through exhaust with de cat, FMIC, Upgraded clutch, hybrid turbo, then the new engine with forged pistons, 520 race injectors, performace cams then a good old custom remap.

How easy is this too do?

Also about swapping the engine? should it take long ? any other thing ill have to do to get the car to " accept " the new engine?
​
 
150 engine should sot striaght in. plumbing is different for the intercooler.

youll need the ECU obviouly and the codes from the doner clocks ( require both vag tacho and vagcom ) and engine loom incase any sensors are different.

youll need to research the injectors as they might be too much for the standard - even hybrid turbo and cause alot of smoking.
 
How much would I be looking to pay then fir a 150 engine from the scrappies?prefer 50K or under. Doing to replace parts and rebore etc before shove it in anyways.

I was on a site and a guy sayed to get the 110 bhp up to 200 bhp ( aparebtly it's been done ) that's what you need done, if I'm slotting the 150 in I'd b looking to increase up to around 240+ bhp and over 400 lb/ft torque somehow haha!

Would I have to put a 6 speed gearbox in? And I heard the driveshafts are diffrent?
 
400lbft is a bit ambitious for any four cylinder engine. Even if the clutch and transaxle can stand it I think that the crankshaft and engine mounts might struggle a bit.

My now destroyed 2.2 HDi (thanks to the silly driver who drove across me from a T junction on a fast desrestricted road) was a bit unruly at times at that delivered just under 330lbft.

If you can get the power and torque you mention (which, to be honest, is not impossible if you're prepared to spend some cash on uprated engine internals) you will have a car that will outpull just about anything.

400lbft is a huge amount of torque - that's in 5 litre V8 petrol territory. Do you really, really, want that much in a FWD car?
 
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