davalavs D turbo

Hey all,

Right... I have been a member almost a year now and none of you have seen my 'Ride', well that's about to change...

I am sure your thinking... " Why is starting a project thread? He hasn't passed his test! " I haven't, no. But I can't see why that should stop me? I'd mainly like to cover a few bits and bobs, mainly cosmetic at the moment. Eventually when I do pass, I'll start the tuning.

Okay... So here she is
 

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At the moment, I want a phase 3 gti 6 front bumper to go on and I have bought some new headlights as the old ones were crap, which I'll upload soon.

Basically when I do finally pass I am going to max the lucas pump and up the boost.
The engine is on its last legs at the moment, so when this dies my plan is to transplant a new engine in it, same XUD ofcourse just less miles.
 
Onmy list though:

Brakes - Either from a gti6 or aftermarket ones, which I haven't decided yet, same with Discs.

Suspension - I'll probably grab some coilovers, but I'll like some advice nearer the time.

Engine - Full transplant eventually, but mild lucas pump tune and play with the boost settings and maybe uprate the turbo to a t25 hybrid, which is slightly bigger then either the garrett or KKK which is stock, need to find out with one I am using! :)

Cooling - Also, I have purchased all ready, a non turbo alloy/metal intake manifold, as it will help with a FMIC conversion.

Wheels - Either cyclones in graphite grey or Challengers in graphite grey.

A few things that can be done, which I am looking forward too. Can't wait to pass!
 
Those are such interesting cars. It's a shame we never got those here. We didn't even get the 205. Peugeot left the US market in 1991 after selling just 2240 cars that year in the US (keep in mind, successful sales figures in the US go by the 100,000's). Renault left the US in 1987 after the Encore and Alliance failed miserably, and after selling AMC to Chrysler Corporation. Alfa Romeo left the US in 1995. The last 2 models here were the Spyder and the 164. Citroen left the US in 1974 after their SM didn't meet US NHTSA standards and hasn't returned.
 
Small update!

bought these! I know they are upside down, but you can see the lights a little better as the camera on my phone isn't that good.
 

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I started fiting them yesterday, I'll take a final pic today when I am home from work...

Took these out, and fitted the new ones.

Sheared a bolt! regardless I got it off!
 

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TommyTwinCams said:
Those are such interesting cars. It's a shame we never got those here. We didn't even get the 205. Peugeot left the US market in 1991 after selling just 2240 cars that year in the US (keep in mind, successful sales figures in the US go by the 100,000's). Renault left the US in 1987 after the Encore and Alliance failed miserably, and after selling AMC to Chrysler Corporation. Alfa Romeo left the US in 1995. The last 2 models here were the Spyder and the 164. Citroen left the US in 1974 after their SM didn't meet US NHTSA standards and hasn't returned.
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Great little cars they are, shame you Americans can't experience them. I'm sure you can import them? But costs.. I haven't a clue. Then again, your vehicle limitations apon age are not as strict as in England.
 
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davalav said:
Great little cars they are, shame you Americans can't experience them. I'm sure you can import them? But costs.. I haven't a clue. Then again, your vehicle limitations apon age are not as strict as in England.
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Importation rules in the USA are REALLY strict. It's not worth it to be honest. Unless the car we want to import is 25 years old or older, it's a lost cause, with too much money and paperwork involved. Believe me, there have been MANY attempts to import cars newer than 25 years. It worked initially, but eventually the US government caught on and seized the cars.
Example: http://jalopnik.com/5775509/feds-launch-new-crackdown-against-nissan-skyline-owners
 
That sucks massively mate!! But what I meant was..... Type of car you can drive. In England when you pass, your stuck with a crappy 1.1 saxo, and insurence is still insane. I gather your in high school/college, and you own a 2.2 litre saturn... :)
 
Yea and the Saturn is my second car ever. My first car is the 3.4 Litre V6 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z34.
It's a different set of rules over here. For a first car, unless you get some old Honda or Acura from the 1990's, you're pretty much guaranteed an engine of 2.0L or more when you get your license. Some of the cheapest cars to insure here are minivans (MPVs) with big V6 engines of more than 3.0L. It's just a different mindset here. Insurance here is NOWHERE near as big a worry as it is for you Europeans. The most expensive cars here to insure are sportscars, supercars, and high end luxury cars.
 
TommyTwinCams said:
Yea and the Saturn is my second car ever. My first car is the 3.4 Litre V6 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Z34.
It's a different set of rules over here. For a first car, unless you get some old Honda or Acura from the 1990's, you're pretty much guaranteed an engine of 2.0L or more when you get your license. Some of the cheapest cars to insure here are minivans (MPVs) with big V6 engines of more than 3.0L. It's just a different mindset here. Insurance here is NOWHERE near as big a worry as it is for you Europeans. The most expensive cars here to insure are sportscars, supercars, and high end luxury cars.
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Europes main problem is moronic health and safety rules. Where I work ( in a school ) You need to complete a course before you can even use a ladder... Health and Safety gone mad!
 
davalav said:
Europes main problem is moronic health and safety rules. Where I work ( in a school ) You need to complete a course before you can even use a ladder... Health and Safety gone mad!
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That's retarded. No wonder Jeremy Clarkson is always complaining about too much health and safety BS. Does the test on the course include "how not to give birth on a ladder"?
 
Small update: Unfortunetly the lights were ILLEGAL after going for an MOT and no longer use them. I am going to use my lights and buffer them up so they are shiny and new. :)

I also bought a non turbo manifold, for FMIC conversion and a Laguna splitter.... Which I'll post pics up when its finished pee'ing down with rain.

P.s. Sorry I have no pictures :(
 
Small update.. Or depends on how you look at things.

Okay so a while a go my passenger rear light failed, so I bought some new bulbs. Didn't work, so I bought new bulb holders/ relays and that didn't work.

So I decided to find out if it was a bad ground, but what I was about to find shocked me!

So I took every thing apart today, as it was nice.....
 

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Then discovered this....

So although I fixed the grounding issue I now have to deal with the rust..... :(
 

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The hole where the seat belt thing was about the same size as a DVD. The other parts where rather small....

I need some advice on whether or not to grind the rust down and out then weld in a plate and do the same with the other side, in the wheel arch, or buy a new one... But I love the Blaze Yellow colour.
 
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BUT! The creativity is really flowing now... I am thinking about leaving it stripped and fitting a half cage, bucket seats and generally make it lighter. I took it out for a quick spin with nothing in the back and it handles amazingly! Even better then before.
 
I like the lights mate, and I like the colour very much,

How were they illegal lights though? I've seen many 306's with those lights so I don't understand..
 
Where is that rust btw, I can't tell from the pictures...

Also just noticed...does your car have an aftermarket exhaust/backbox on it?
 
My MOT tester said the lights were illegal as cars fitted with Halo lights were unsuitable for UK road use UNLESS factory fitted. He said they would fail the MOT. I liked them too.. :(

I have some more pictures I think... But my USB root has just bloody curropted.

And yes it does... It is a cat back at the mo, I was seeing what gains I got, other then a meaty tone and it revs a little more freely... Cant see any point in doing any power enhancing mods until I pass my test. I am impatient as it is!!
 
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Here is a pic.. I try uploading them through Photo bucket but it says they are too big! They are under the maximum size though?
 

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full cat back system? Who made it?

I think I know where that is now...
is the rust on the rear quarter on the passenger side?
If so its a common place for it to rot because theres no arch liner there and Peugeot didn't underseal it all the way up... I'd get it sorted asap mate.
 
jarrus said:
full cat back system? Who made it?

I think I know where that is now...
is the rust on the rear quarter on the passenger side?
If so its a common place for it to rot because theres no arch liner there and Peugeot didn't underseal it all the way up... I'd get it sorted asap mate.
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I made it :) Like I said, i wanted something to see what gains could be had, so I knocked up a stainless T304 grade exhaust with a near gutless back box. Sounds quite, but meaty and raw when giving it some beans.

Yes the rust is there. I had heard the rot problem was very common (Thats why I checked there). I suck at welding as I have no patience so my step dad will do it. We were going to clean both wheel arches spotless then cut out and grind down the rot, then cover a plate over it, instead of taking the full quartlet out. It hasn't effected the whole said, just a small area, which happened to cover the seat belt assembely. So... Under seal is on the list now! What would you recommened?
 
Also.. When I mentioned leaving is stripped, what can I do to make the ride more firm and not so light? Speeding up it feels like the car will loose control if I run over a snail. I am GOING to do a rear beam conversion, in due time and a big break conversion. I still haven't decided on Cyclones or Challengers. I have been looking at Nimrods.... All in Gun metal grey or similar.
 
Well.... this didn't go to plan.

Step dad looked at it, and just moaned about why I'd taken everything out. I said to double check there is no more rust! He said put it all back together and sell it.... There is no way in hell I am selling a car where belt assemably is rusty! Unlike him, I'm not a cheap skate so I am willing to pay to get it done, or learn how to weld! :)
 
Not sure how I missed this thread but anyway...

You've got a few options with the rust/rot. First of all you need to determine how much rust there is. Whether or not it effects any structural integrity or chassis strength. Next up is to find out if it's rot. Easy way to test, push a key into it. If it's rot the key will go through.

All rust/rot will have to cut off completely and new metal welded in. Best bet would be a body shop. I can recommend a place, but that depends on where you are based. To do this though it will be expensive. For comparison sake, to have my rear arches cut out and replaced cost me £600, but well worth if it you plan on keeping the car.

You only other options are to either sell it or scrap it.
 
Okay... I remembered something very very important today.




I LIVE NEXT DOOR TO A SPECIALIST BODY FABRICATION AND REPAIR SHOP!!!

:lol: My memory isn't my best trait....
 
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jarrus said:
Good lad mate....

Do whats best for you.
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I would refuse to sell some one this car even if they insisted, not just because of the rust. I am going to have it repaired becuase I love it more then I love food, and thats a lot. My plan is to head down to a local scrappy and search for a qauter panel. Cut the old one out and ask Darren ( the body shop guy ) to weld it in for me as the rust isn't THAT bad....
 
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Prince said:
Not sure how I missed this thread but anyway...

You've got a few options with the rust/rot. First of all you need to determine how much rust there is. Whether or not it effects any structural integrity or chassis strength. Next up is to find out if it's rot. Easy way to test, push a key into it. If it's rot the key will go through.

All rust/rot will have to cut off completely and new metal welded in. Best bet would be a body shop. I can recommend a place, but that depends on where you are based. To do this though it will be expensive. For comparison sake, to have my rear arches cut out and replaced cost me £600, but well worth if it you plan on keeping the car.

You only other options are to either sell it or scrap it.
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The rust honestly isn't as bad as I first thought. It is not all rot. the bit with the hole, in the image was rot. cleared that up, now just need to cut out a qauter panel, and weld a new one in. Structial terms I am not worried at all.... It's hard to explain, as you really need to see it to make any sense as to why I am going ahead with this. The qaurter panel is internal to the exteria panel, if I cut that out, I'll have Darren weld in a new one, with added structual strengh just to make sure. Where the panel sits, its literally in the wheel arch where the damage is, but all the way at the top. There shouldn't be ANY structual weakness.
 
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If you cut it out like you mensioned here's the best way to do it.
(Mind you, good luck finding a wrecker with a good one)
Obviously the one you get from the wreckers is easy as. Just cut out what you want.
When you prep it on the car, you want to get a drill bit about 7 or 8mm and grind into the shape of a "timber drill bit or splade bit"!!??. small centre point and then curved and at the outer edge flaring out a bit.
Reason for this (and I'll put in some pics for you tommorrow) is on your car you want to drill out the spot welds but leave the "parent metal" there. then do the same to the peice you are going to put in but with this you just need to drill it without care for the "chuck out bit". Then you can weld the peice in where the spot welds were as well as the point where you have cut needs welding ofcourse. Being that the point where you are doing the repair IS a critical point for your safety, you want to make it a good strong job. (I come from a long line of panel beaters and car nutters :).
In holland and Australia. Anyway if you want some pics I'll give some detailed idea's for you to look at. I have a Rear quater panel here for my car that needs preping to replace my dammage Q/P. You can also buy special spot weld drill bits for this type of job but it's cheaper to make your own with a gringer or bench grinder.
Doing it this way would be easier than slapping a plate in and create less weld area to fill. Make sure to rust proof it after. It also helps to prime the bare metal that will be contacting each other with a galmet primer.(gavlvanizing paint)
Let me know if your interested in some pics to explain what I'm on about.
 
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