Clio Mk2 - Engine swap or new car?

02coled

Wrench Pro
Points
56
Location
Essex
Car
Clio Mk2 1.2 16v
Hello
After owning the car for a year its been brilliant as a first car. But iv found its a real pig as soon as you hit hilly torrain. So im looking at some more BHP. So iv got liking Clios and would like to still own one, so im considering isit worth me engine swapping (If so what size can i get into the old 1.2 16v engine bay?) or do i sell the car and buy a 1.6 16v, or even one of the diesels? On the engine swap im imagining the chassis is similar on all the models baring the fast sport versions so then i could put the 1.6 16v lump in it without any major work?
Help and querys much appreciated?
02coled
 
If i could find the money to insure the 172 at 18yrs old i would any day. But £4-5k dont come from know where these days. Allet alone trying to fuel the thing. So yeah anyone got any clues or know of it being done previously?
Its nippy in the first two gears, giving me the impression its either geared really well or fairly torquey. But after that its all slow from then on.

"why do things half cocked with the 1.6. see MAs post"?? Dont understand this comment?
 
Well if it's money you're worried about, it'll cost you more to insure a conversion than it would if you bought the clio with that engine already in from the factory. It'll also cost you more to do the conversion that it would selling up and buying the car you're converting from.
 
i meant if your doing the conversion you might as well do it right, theres not much point in swapping from a 1.2 to a 1.6 when theres a 2.0 that will fit in there
 
hmm yeah so its a new car hear we come. Yeah i would like to have done a big conversion but its allways against the insurance companies.
Anyone got any recomendations on cars that have allot of legroom and around 1.2-1.6 engine, as i think id steer away from another Clio, unless the 3door has more leg room for the driver?
02coled
 
mk4 golf im 6'2 and dont even have the seat fully back sits around 2 clicks forward. ( only 1 in the bora however with the recardos ) on the 5 door.
nice choice of engines. handles not back from standard does have a dendancy to under steer however easily fixed
 
mk4 golf im 6'2 and dont even have the seat fully back sits around 2 clicks forward. ( only 1 in the bora however with the recardos ) on the 5 door.
nice choice of engines. handles not back from standard does have a dendancy to under steer however easily fixed

After getting near awful insurance quotes its come down to the crunch and im having to stick with my clio :(. So now iv got to work the Clio around me. So new question: How can I produce more leg room in the drivers seat, iv looked at the chair and i cant in anyway move the runners, but i can unbolt the seat from the runners removing the frame. Any ideas on increasing the travel backwards. Or would a seat from a different car make any difference or a "sports" seat with a fram work?
02coled
 
worth a try, remove the seats and unbolt from the subframe.
get some thickish flat bar (5 or 6mm thick ) drill 2 holes in it, countersink 1 ( reason for using thicker flatbar ) and use a countsunk bolt to stick these back to the subframe. use the other hole to rebolt them onto the seat. if it all fits use some threadlock on th bolts along with anti vibration or spring washers to hold secure
 
Funnily enough this was my inital though but i was going to use aluminium plate or the same thickness. My only worry is MOT time. Iv a family memember who had a car which failed because the seat was not secured safely. Could this be the same for my car once the "modifcations" are completed. Or aslong as i prove and show good workmanship and secure-ness would this be enough?
Thanks
02coled
 
might be worth PMing lutonmatt as hes a MOT tester. i would have thought it would have been alright, and hense why i said using anti-vibrtion washers and threadlock, that should hold it secure enough. might use stainless steel as you could proberly bend 5mm aluminum pretty easy
 
Just sorted it out temporary now. Took the rear raised (stamped out) stops off the back of the runners and moved it past them and one side locks in and the other side i drilled straight through and put a stainless steel M8 bolt all the way through. For now i have loads of leg room. But its not practical as obviously the seat can not be moved in any way. Although i was looking about the discussed plate technique to cause an offset and its not possible because of micro switches embedded in the runners which seem to sense when the seat is very close to the steering wheel id imagine it changes something about the air bag going off, as its from the same wiring loom and its feasible. Thinking about changing to some aftermarket runners from like a bucket seat?
Thanks
02coled
 

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