brake pad an spark plug help galant 2.5 v6 sport

glyn

Full member
Points
6
Location
uk bradford
Car
galant 2.0 glx
hey so I have a galant v6 sport, the brakes aren't that great but the disks are retry new, I was thinking I can just change the pads, I've seen the red stuff ones but it's gonna be about £130 to do front and back, my questions are :
1)does anyone know where I can get them cheaply
2) are the red stuff ones any good ?
3) is there some that are cheaper but good?
I also don't know which spark plugs to get, is there any actual point in buying expensive ones ?

sorry if these have been covered but I've spent a while looking for the info an can't get it clear in my head ,

thanks for any help :)
 
Racing pads are rubbish on the road, whilst they are cold which is most of the time they have no bite.

Expensive plugs, like iridium tips last about 4 years but there is not really a performance advantage on them.
 
I would be inclined to try some yellow pads as Red requires a bit more heat into them before they start to perform - this is nerve racking stuff in the wintertime when you need to brake quickly, ask me how I know? :sad2:

Do NOT skimp on the brake pad quality buddy - THEY STOP THE CAR!

Also I have never believed all of that longlife theory with regards to Iridium sparkplugs. Yes they are good but I change mine well before the manufacturer says they should be changed.
 
good brake pads cost a lot more than pattern ones but are a worthwhile spend if you want to improve your brakes.

ferodo 2500s might be a good bet

As to plugs
I treat plugs like oil . After all they are a critical part so for what they cost it isnt worth fitting anything but the best (IMHO)

I dont buy iridium plugs for long life as I change them more often than most anyway.

I use them because they only cost under £50 for a set of six and dont break down on high boost and the high revs mine runs at.
 
second for the feredo 2500s.
they are classed as a racing pad however are fantastic on the road as well. Easy to bed in but you might be around £130 for the front alone.

A cheaper option is Mintex 1155s pads. these cost me around half of what the 2500s cost with similer performance but they done less than a couple thousand miles before the 2500s were ordered up as they did nothing but squeal until they were hot. others seem to have no problem with them however.

the red stuff pads are now EBCs fast road pad for heavier cars rather than the racing pad that they used to be. Blue stuff are now classed as racing pads.

As T9 has said i wouldnt scrimp on the brakes
 
Racing pads are rubbish on the road, whilst they are cold which is most of the time they have no bite.

Expensive plugs, like iridium tips last about 4 years but there is not really a performance advantage on them.


thanks Wayne, I think I was getting sucked in by the multi conductors an super bright spark !!!
 
I would be inclined to try some yellow pads as Red requires a bit more heat into them before they start to perform - this is nerve racking stuff in the wintertime when you need to brake quickly, ask me how I know? :sad2:

Do NOT skimp on the brake pad quality buddy - THEY STOP THE CAR!

Also I have never believed all of that longlife theory with regards to Iridium sparkplugs. Yes they are good but I change mine well before the manufacturer says they should be changed.

I thought the yellow ones were for track only ? I may have read the ebc stuff wrong , yeah breaks are the first on my list to be honest, an I've worked out that the rotalla tyres that came on it are effectively mobile ice when there's the smallest amount of rain !! I've also just worked out on the hottest day so far that my car likes to dump water, I've been out to the shops then came back, an hour later I noticed a small pool of water that smelt an felt like anti freeze on the floor, under the reservoir, I'm hoping and praying that this is a thermostat issue, have you or any of the other guys had this issue before ? the more concerning thing is that the water was still on the full line on the bottle
 
good brake pads cost a lot more than pattern ones but are a worthwhile spend if you want to improve your brakes.

ferodo 2500s might be a good bet

As to plugs
I treat plugs like oil . After all they are a critical part so for what they cost it isnt worth fitting anything but the best (IMHO)

I dont buy iridium plugs for long life as I change them more often than most anyway.

I use them because they only cost under £50 for a set of six and dont break down on high boost and the high revs mine runs at.

I'll give those pads a go, so iridium is the way to go with plugs, should I change the leads or are the oem ones okay ?
 
second for the feredo 2500s.
they are classed as a racing pad however are fantastic on the road as well. Easy to bed in but you might be around £130 for the front alone.

A cheaper option is Mintex 1155s pads. these cost me around half of what the 2500s cost with similer performance but they done less than a couple thousand miles before the 2500s were ordered up as they did nothing but squeal until they were hot. others seem to have no problem with them however.

the red stuff pads are now EBCs fast road pad for heavier cars rather than the racing pad that they used to be. Blue stuff are now classed as racing pads.

As T9 has said i wouldnt scrimp on the brakes

I think I'll go for the 2500s they seem to get good reviews, I've done some investigating an it has pagid pads on at the moment but they really aren't doing what they are supposed to, I'm close to the point that I might be able to open the door an use my shoe on the Tarmac to achieve a good stop!!
 
I've not used padgit pads myself but they are supposed to be really good pads for flast road use
It might be that you have proper racing pads which need to warm up properly or they have not been bled correctly
I would get them bled properly before I changed them
 
Apart from the plugs I'd leave the spark system alone if it isn't missfiring
Like all plugs you need to make sure you get the right grade
 
something else to consider is a front strut brace. the understeer on a FWD galant is horrendous but a VR4 strut brace makes a huge difference. i put one in my V6 and the difference was night and day. the VR4 obviously has one and so does my new V6 so i have one spare and they are a piece of cake to fit. 4 bolts each side
 
I'm a bit poor at the moment just changed the pads, and also the tyres as i got bored of going in a straight line around corners when it wa raining ! how much are you selling your spare for ? an how mic would the postage be to bradford? also is your v6 the 2.5 ? if so what else have you done to it if you don't mind me asking ?
 
http://www.torquecars.com/forums/f47/old-new-26890/

the front strut braces usually go for between £50 and £70. i dont know how much postage would be but i will find out tomorrow for you. is £50 plus postage ok?
it is a very noticeable modification for the n/a galants and didnt affect my insurance although sky is a specialist. i dont know about more general insurance companies though
there doesnt seem to be much you can do for more power from the 2.5 V6 (a sports filter is available from K&N or HKS. all 8th generation galant/legnums use the same filter) but most suspension components are interchangeable with a VR4 so handling can easily be improved. aftermarket alloys are a worthwhile investment since the stock 17s are known to be very soft and buckle at the sight of a pebble in front of you. a brembo upgrade is possible but the rear hub carriers and front hubs need changing to a pair of 5 stud hubs from an eclipse which are import only so check american websites for them or JDM n/a galants which seem to all have 5 studs where UK cars only got 4 studs.
they are bloody good cars though. i personally have had 5 now
1998 2.0 GLS
1999 2.4 GDI
2001 2.5 V6 (now a donor car blocking my driveway)
1997 2.5 V6 VR4 (temporarily off the road)
2000 2.5 V6 auto which i got on friday
 
that's a really fair price being honest the most I'd be able to afford for a long while would be £40 including postage, I'll have to stick with the understeer for now!
it's a shame there isn't more tweaking that an be done, I just assumed wrongly that there would be things to bolt on when I have eventually saved up but no doubt it will be tyre time again by then. why do you have so many of them !! I love the car its lovely to drive
 
the V6 estate was a good car but i always wanted a VR4. a very rare manual came along at the right price so i snapped it up but its a very expensive car to run and modify. 3 weeks after i bought it the rear diff casing cracked so it was off the road for 7 weeks. i wanted brembos but i needed the front hub carriers from the V6 due to the different mounting points. i also needed new brakes lines making for the rear brembos. they got painted and fitted but the wheels didnt clear them so i had to go and get EVO alloys. then the EVO style bonnet came up for sale so i bought that and a month later a wrongly diagnosed front diff was sourced. again, EVO RS upgrade appeared so i bought that. i always wanted the front bumper from the V6 so that got sprayed and fitted. the interior from the V6 was better than standard VR4 so that went in along with the fascia. i got it through its MOT in June but the lower ball joints, track rods and droplinks started to show signs of wear so £700 went on those bits after the white alloys were bought. now a drive shaft is going and i ran out of money so i had to hire a car. my mate bought a celica 2 weeks ago and was scrapping his galant so i got that from him on friday as a daily driver. i want the downpipes off the old V6 since they are almost new and i finally got the sideskirts off yesterday so they will go on the VR4 eventually. now i have another V6 i can save a few more bits from the old V6 like PAS pump and alternator. i may as well keep a few spares before scrapping what is left of it
 
sorry I've just seen this reply, that is really unlucky, is it on the road now ? do you have pictures ?
 
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