Brake bleeders

[TCJBOLDIE]

I have them on my track car and it is easy to do it by myself.
http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

[stamford]

Need solution, nice find.

 

[HugoBoss]

Love it, very clever.

 

[T9 man]

I never new such a thing existed.

 

[HDi fun]

1. How do you see the fluid being removed when sat in the driving seat?

2. How does the reservoir get replenished?

Surely it's still a two man job

 

[stamford]

1. How do you see the fluid being removed when sat in the driving seat?

2. How does the reservoir get replenished?

Surely it's still a two man job

I would see this as the same as if bleeding using a non-return valve, clear pipe into a bottle etc. A few strokes of the pedal, check the pipe for bubbles or constant fluid. Check reservoir after every few pumps and repeat for each corner as per correct procedure etc.

With the valved nipple you don't have the issue of cracking the thread open in order to bleed the system and the possibility of air getting in via the thread, we can happen on some assemblies especially if the assembly is worn or partially blocked meaning you have to open the nipple more than you really want to.

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

1. How do you see the fluid being removed when sat in the driving seat?

2. How does the reservoir get replenished?

Surely it's still a two man job

It's ezy I connect a length of clear tight fitting hose to the bleed nipple and the other end into a bottle ,tin can or whatever ,top up the reservoir and leave cap off and pump the brake say 4 times then check the clear hose for air bubbles and new fluid if no air bubbles and new fluid visible then tighten the nipple ,top up reservoir.
Remember you must bleed each line till there are no bubbles and there is only new fluid showing and always check to see if you need to top up with new fluid and it it is extremely important to start at the rear on the side with the longest line from the reservoir and work your way to the shortest line.

 

[HDi fun]

Is the sequence always furthest away first?

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

Is the sequence always furthest away first?

I f you don't start with the longest line and the the next longest line then there is the chance of not removing all air bubbles or old fluid out of the lines.
start with the rear passenger side caliper , then the rear driver side caliper followed by the front passenger side caliper and finally the front driver side caliper.
FWIW I always use racing brake fluid like Motul RBF 600.
Remember that brake fluid is hygroscopic -absorbs moisture in doing so lowers the boiling point of the fluid so the lines should be flushed annually or earlier depending on mileage and air bubbles in the lines will give the pedal a spongy feel.

 

[old-git]

With the valved nipple you don't have the issue of cracking the thread open in order to bleed the system and the possibility of air getting in via the thread, we can happen on some assemblies especially if the assembly is worn or partially blocked meaning you have to open the nipple more than you really want to.

You still have to crack the thread otherwise the fluid cannot get out. The nipple is just like a standard one except for the ball and spring that prevent fluid getting out until pedal pressure overcomes the spring pressure.

 

[HDi fun]

I f you don't start with the longest line and the the next longest line then there is the chance of not removing all air bubbles or old fluid out of the lines.
start with the rear passenger side caliper on the side, then the rear driver side caliper followed by the front passenger side caliper and finally the front driver side caliper.
FWIW I always use racing brake fluid like Motul RBF 600.
Remember that brake fluid is hygroscopic -absorbs moisture in doing so lowers the boiling point of the fluid so the lines should be flushed annually or earlier depending on mileage and air bubbles in the lines will give the pedal a spongy feel.

I find normal low viscosity DOT4 ESP fine for my purposes but still get it replaced every couple of years - never had a problem with fade but I am pretty gentle on brakes TBH.

Pedal is firm and responsive

 

[old-git]

This thing with hydroscopic brake fluid is interesting. It seems only recently that people have got obsessed by it. It wasn't a problem or even discussed, as far as I can recall, back in the 70s and 80s. I never had problems with brake fade or spongy brakes in the Elan and it wasn't driven softly

I have never changed the brake fluid in my road cars (including the Elan), except when changing calipers or pipes which is very rare.

My Chevy Blazer is 14 years old and has never had (according to the service record and receipts) the fluid changed (I haven't even had to top it up in 3 years of ownership) and the pedal is very firm.

As the system is sealed, how does the air get into it? The stuff in the master cylinder may absorb some moisture but that never gets into a system that isn't leaking so won't cause a problem.

As water is non-compressable being in the system won't, in itself, make the brakes spongy. This can only happen if you cook your brakes and there is water in the fluid which could boil and make the brakes spongy. In order to cook the brakes you will have to do some serious and repetitive heavy braking. In a road only car this is unlikely unless you are in the Alps

I may well be talking rubbish (wouldn't be the first time) so would be interested in being put straight by someone who actually knows what they are talking about.

 

[TCJBOLDIE]

o-gI have often wondered how air gets into a sealed system too and to my way of thinking it can only happen if there was a leak in the system and the reservoir lost nearly all of the fluid.
Another is how does the fluid get to change color my guess is it just some chemical aging process or from heat cycling?
But I like to follow "industry best practice" as I do not want any unpleasant surprises brakeing from 220+ kph into a 60k turn at the track or when towing my car to/from an event down the Toowoomba range or The Gap.