At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2

Decided after installing the fuel pipes that a shield between them and the cam belt would be sensible ( yes, I do sensible occasionally). The aluminium arrived today so I knocked this up, should do the trick:

 
Thanks.

The shield looked a bit plain and on the heavy side so I have taken the angle grinder to it and written over 1400 lines of G-code (CNC machine operating language) in order to give it a little zing. Work in progress.
 
:)

I have just impressed myself. Downloaded an app to my phone to generate a circle of holes. Generated the file and sent it via email and it opened in my CNC editor and it worked!

Isn't technology wonderful........when it works :)
 
I just love having the right tools for the job. Making spacers is a breeze with a lathe. No faffing about with stack of washers that is never quite the right thickness.

Bolt is for the lower wheelie bar rod ends.



 
I had to undo some of my previous work. We are fitting a steel angle along the bottom of the chassis onto which we will weld the roll cage outriggers. The flanged holes will cause a welding problem so I have had to grind them flush :-(

 
Still in discussion with MSA re roll cage spec so, in the meatime I am working though the list of little jobs:

Ordered some titanium nuts from AliExpress.
Ordered M10 aluminium bolts from eBay (to secure the bottom of the cambelt shield)
Ordered 19mm ID silicone hose for turbo oil return.
Fitted alternator
Removed roll hoop
Repositioned fuel pipes where they pass bellhousing as they were a tad close.
Replaced black pipe clips adjacent fuel rail for blue ones.

 

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Finally finalized our initial thoughts on roll/stiffening cage design so I will be ordering the T45 tube tomorrow.

I am working on 15m of 38mm OD and 5m of 44mm OD. If I used standard CDS tube this lot would weigh 49Kg. T45 tubes weighs the same size for size but you can use thinner walled tube so I can save 19kg! T45 is a lot more expensive but I only have to buy it once and I have the weight saving for ever :)

We have abandoned the idea of running steel angle the length of the chassis on which to attatch the tubes. instead we will be using reinforcing plates, saving around 6kg!
 
More goodies from eBay and China

M10 titanium nuts from AliExpress:



Grommets to seal roll cage to interior fibreglass where it passes through. Blanking plugs to seal holes I will be drilling to allow access to suspension bolts:

 
How much? You have got to be kidding :eek:

I hope that tubing was delivered to you on the van wrapped up in a duvet with matching pillows for comfort and a bedside lamp glowing by it's side ;)
 
That does seem expensive especially when I was quoted £1k for a bespoke cage for the MG to current racing standards fitted.
 
Steve is planning for the worst wile hoping for the best with his choice of cage material and without doubt done his homework and has researched for the strongest lightest tubing.
 
Well, actually I will. The cage is being designed and built primarily for stiffness, the safely aspect is just a welcome bonus. If the cage works the car will be very stiff (for the least additional weight) allowing full use of the available power resulting in quicker times.
 
Started on rad fan shroud. Made spacers and lightened aluminium bolts :)



The spacers won't be seen so I haven't spent too much time on them. However, I used two different aluminium bars and the difference in their turning quality is plain to see. The two on the right were made from bar supplied with an antiroll bar I ended up not using. The other 6 were made from bar I bought. One bar made beautiful shiny smooth helical swarf whilst the other made dull rough uneven swarf.



Spacer in place. Just need to decide on shroud material thickness (probably 1.5mm).

Rad was built with two sets of rad brackets so that an additional SPAL fan could be fitted if required.



 
Worked out a way of adding reinforcing ribs to aluminium sheet. I need to add a couple to the radiator shroud and the air deflector separating the radiator and intercoler intake air will be rather floppy without them.

The male former is made from 8mm diameter titanium rod, the ends rounded using a natty tool I bought a few months ago for a job I ended up not doing. The female part is simply a groove cut to accommodate the rod and aluminium when the two pieces of wood are squeezed together with a 12 tonne press.

First test worked pretty well, IMO :)





 
The 1.5mm aluminium for the radiator shroud arrived today so I set about making it.

Aligning the bolt holes could have been tricky, but I utilised a method I picked up watching Mighty Car Mods on YouTube. Fit sharpened bolts into the bolt holes, line up the item and press down thereby marking the hole positions pretty accurately.



Progress so far. Off to welder tomorrow to get corners and the cutout to avoid the inlet pipe welded.

 
In discussion with my engine guru, I now have a list of the sensors I need:

Oil pressure 0-5v 10 bar
Fuel pressure 0-5v 10 bar
MAP sensor 0-5v 4 bar absolute
Air temp standard Weber
Water temp standard Weber
TPS (already have this)
Lambda NTK 6 wire (this one will hurt the pocket)
EGT stardard RS Components
Barametric sensor 2.5KPA Weber
Single boost control valve
Gear box system pressure sensor

Geez!
 
They should be as they aren't cheap, but at 802CFM for an 11 inch blade they shift a fair amount of air.
 
Mine is supposed to pull app 850 cfm thru the cooler and radiator IIRC it is app 1600cfm FAD fan that set me back 300AUD:eek:
 
Confused , I am :) Are you using an 850 or 1600cfm of both?

How are you using the fan(s) to pull air through both rad and cooler? Hadn't thought about fanning the cooler as it is only 6" high.
 

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