At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2

I know this is going to be predominately a drag car, as going in straight lines mostly etc but if doing hillclimbs (hairpin bends) will you be looking to use coiled cables to give controlled slack? I was thinking of those used on touring and rally cars where they have steering wheel based controls.

http://www.torquecars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1493&stc=1&d=1329518598

:)

I have this, but I will need two as this one only has 22 wires and the Dash2 needs 18 on its own. Do you know of a version with more wires?
 

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^^ Well when it finally makes it onto the road and becomes famous OG, at least I can say that I saw it in it's early development stage! :)
 
^^ Well when it finally makes it onto the road and becomes famous OG, at least I can say that I saw it in it's early development stage! :)

that state its been in for around 20 years
Face-Plain-120px.png
<- specially found for OG


wheels looking good
 

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Thanks for the positive comments regarding steering wheel. I am not sure if it will look OK or naff when fitted, but it has been fun designing and making it so I will keep it regardless.
 
Right.... My two part epoxy has passed its use by date so I am looking for a replacement. My old stuff was used to stick helicopter blades on with so was quite strong

I need something VERY strong and slightly flexible (not araldite!) to stick both stainless steel and carbon fibre sheet to fibreglass panels.

On eBay there are many glues sold as industrial strength but that could mean anything. Marine epoxy seems like a good choice as this has to put up with extreme stresses.

Any suggestions?
 
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Well I got a reply of sorts,

Hi Laurence,

Silicone adhesives can be used but when used as structural adhesives you have to consider their low cohesive strength. The primary advantage of silicone adhesives and sealants are their temperature resistance up to 260°C. I recommend that you speak to somebody form LOCTITE, a company specializing on adhesives.

http://www.loctite.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_uke/hs.xsl/homepage.htm

Regards,

Dimitrios


Sorry OG, not sure if that's much help :( I'll be happy to forward any other questions you have though.
 
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Hi Loz

No problem. I have asked Loctite the question and will let you know their answer.
 
I think I may have found my flat shift pneumatic gear change supplier. A racer who has developed his own system rather than a faceless large company. I like what I see here and have spent a few hours discussing my situation and requirements with a fellow nutter :) I think we can do business as his pricing is very reasonable compared to other systems out there.

He is using the baby brother version of my box (Elite IL200 as opposed to my IL300) so I know the system will work with my box.

http://www.xoomspeed.com/
 
Thanks Loz, I have asked David at XoomBox if this is what he is talking about.

Launch Control is more important than traction control but, in the class I will be running in (street legal) both are allowed.

0.4l tank is good for around 4 runs on a typical sprint course so the 0.8l tank on this site would be good for 8 runs with many more on the strip. For road use I would sort out a compressor and reservoir system with quick release fittings so swapping form one to the other is straightforward.
 
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Mods to rear calipers. Bought a pair of alloy calipers fitted with handbrake mechanisms a year or so back. I have now found out that, as my car is pre 71, I can use a hydraulic handbrake doing away with cables and bracketing. I have therefore now removed the handbrake fittings from the calipers, saving 280gm of unsprung weight. Apologies for quality of photo but you can make out the modification.

http://www.torquecars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1571&stc=1&d=1331768311
 

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Very very nice OG, BUT!!! Considering the huge power of your baby and the wafer like weight of the car concerned; I have yet to see any pictures posted up from you of the parachute set up and the back up ships anchor! :blink: This is very unlike you OG! Sort yourself out buddy! :lol:
 

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Another mod

Just got rear bottom wishbones back from having one rubber bush replaced with a rod end (rose joint), allowing toe in/out to be adjusted (there will be, obviously, a lock nut fitted to the rod end). The top wishbone has a pair of rod ends so that camber is also adjustable.


http://www.torquecars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1596&stc=1&d=1332799260

http://www.torquecars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1597&stc=1&d=1332799260

http://www.torquecars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1598&stc=1&d=1332799260
 

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More lightening.

CV joints are secured by 6 bolts. As the bolts are working in shear only, 3 can be cut back on each CV to form studs. This has resulted in a rotational mass saving of 350gms. I also removed some unnecessary material from the spacer that allows me to use equal length driveshafts (hence the longer bolts), saving 80gms.

http://www.torquecars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1601&stc=1&d=1333217088
 

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Yes, they do, especially rotational and unsprung (half of them) weight. I may have to replace the studs with bolts for the MOT, though :)
 
I think so. Spoke to Dave at Trident Racing Supplies. They sell Teroson PU panel bonder and I have bought a tube to try out.
 
 

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As they say, sometimes one thing can lead to another.

I decided, with regard to my weight reducing obsession, to replace existing cast iron rear whell bearing carriers with lighweight aluminium ones. However, as no one appears to make them with lugs to attach a caliper, a separate mounting bracket is also required. Didn't consider this an issue until the bits arrived from different suppliers (neither had both bits available!). Brackets didn't fit bearing carrier. A couple of hours later they did.

I then discovered that with the brackets sitting on the carrier the caliper was 6mm too far out, so the carriers had to be milled so the bracket sat in the correct location.

Then I noticed that the lugs didn't stick out enough, they were short by about 10mm. It dawns on me that these were designed for standard Sierras that use small rear discs! I have now ordered a pair of standard, non grooved, non drilled rear Sierra discs.

However, the original Cossie discs were much bigger than the standard Elan front discs, so this forced change has helped in the brake balancing department as well as reducing unsprung weight by an extra 1.3Kg on top of the 1.6Kg the new carriers have saved.

Next and final step is to get the wheel hubs machined. Two new holes to match the existing along with relieving of the underside to a depth of 1/3 the thickness.

CV joints should be back this week from being lightened so that will complete the rear end and it can be put together.

http://www.torquecars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1625&stc=1&d=1334766158

http://www.torquecars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1626&stc=1&d=1334766158
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http://www.torquecars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1628&stc=1&d=1334766158
 

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i have come to the conclusion that if your car was human it would be anorexic.lmao

And on a diet :). I have been trying to think of an analogy and came up with the power and speed of a male sprinter in the body of a female Rumanian gymnast :)
 
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